Drops fabel red for leg and foot, yellow hand dyed we BFL for cuff. (Yes apparently I can’t weigh yarn, the yellow is different lengths on each sock, but the total sock length is the same.)

These fit great!

72/36 Imperia

Cylinder tension 4 throughout.
Ribber tension 3.

Waste yarn with every other cylinder needle.
Join working yarn at 3oclock.
Work half a round (9oclock) then insert ribber dial and needles for 1x1 rib.
Ribber out of work.
Crank to 6oclock. Lift bars between stitches of working yarn onto ribber needles, check ribber latches open.
Put ribber in work with first ribber needle at 3oclock.
Crank checking ribber needles are knitting and making sure you have lifted all st bars onto ribber needles.
Crank another round.
This forms a selvage edge that is neat and won’t unravel, and has a firm stretchy edge that doesn’t look Lacey.

Crank to total 5.
Move ribber stitches to cylinder for 3x1 rib.
Crank total 34.
Switch to red yarn.
Crank total 65.
Move all ribber sts to cylinder on front half for pre heel.
Crank to 75.
For child’s socks I make a slightly smaller and rounded heel as follows.
Over 34 needles (instead of 36 or 38 for adult socks).
Row 1; 2down.
Row 2; 2down. (To avoid holes)
Row 3-16: 1 down.
Row 17-18: 2 down. (Rounded heel)
For increases. 1 up 2 down method. But modified for rounded so
So before completing row 19 3 down on right.
Row 19: 1 up 3down.
Then continue 1up, 2 down, until all 34 needles back in work.
Stop at 6oclock.
Push down all needles,
Replace ribber and transfer required back stitches to ribber.
Crank on checking ribber stitches knit.
Crank 60 rounds for foot (total 135).
Move remaining ribber stitches to cylinder.
Crank to total 140 for pre toe.
Raise rear 36sts.
Toe 1up, Then 1up, 2down.
Row 1& 2: 2up.
Row3-16: 1up. (16sts left in middle)
Row17: 2up.
Row 18: 2up (left) 3down (right)
Row 19: 1up (right) 3 down (left).
Row 20- : 1up, 2down. Until all 36 are back down.