Helpful Hint

when decreasing, do not move marker up to the ch over it; leave marker in the sc of the row below so that it stands out as the place where something different than usual needs to happen when you come around again. Move the marker up when making the bridge stitch.

Update

This sweater was made with a now-outdated version of the pattern, where instructions were for standard XS through XL sizes in a 2-chain diamond stitch. The revised pattern, based on personal measurements, should make the sorts of.adjustments I describe unnecessary.

June 19, 2018

Hmmm… written-out instructions for foundation chain and first row of XS collar are different from what the chart has. Note: It’s correct in the chart.

August 28, 2018

Set this aside for the heat of the summer to work on smaller, lighter weight things. Now back at it.

September 15, 2018

Added two rows to extend the waist. Got two rows into hip increases then tried it on: decided I need to reduce the width of the lower back. Will rip it back to where the sleeves start, then add shaping either side of center back, following the established pattern of decrease rows. (Yikes. Just figured out that’s 53 rows. Good thing I like crocheting with good yarn so much that redoing just extends the enjoyment that much longer.)

September 22, 2018

The extra tapering in the back worked! However, after getting to row 57, I realized that the back (and sides?) should stay straight to there, with only the front halves increased at row 48, so I pulled it back to there.

September 30, 2018

Ready to do the edging, but can’t figure out where the collar increases go. Pattern says “4 markers on collar edge opposite each raglan line” but how can there be a point opposite a line?

Update: patternmaker confirms it means the points where each raglan line intersects with the edge of the collar when the collar is folded into place.

October 6, 2018

Starting the sleeves! Took longer to get here than it should have because I took the edging out twice: once to get rid of uneven tension that made a cocoon coat effect in some spots but not others (opted for very loose tension, to keep edge from gathering in at all), the second time because I wasn’t paying attention and increased at each marker on the 2nd round instead of just at corners.

Hint for getting started on the sleeves: place markers in raglan line in order to get your bearings.

October 17, 2018

One sleeve done, the other to be done while traveling: the crochet project for the flight and for while I’m in Hong Kong will magically become the cosy sweater I’ll need when I get to Osaka.

November 3, 2018

Finished on the train back to Osaka from a day-trip to Kyoto just in time to be able to wear it for the chillier-than-expected walk from Yodoyabashi Station to the hotel! Sleeves are a titch too long; haven’t decided yet if I’ll pull out a few rounds or if folding them up into a cuff looks okay.

November 10, 2018

Pulled out 8 rounds, then redid one as repeated sc ch to tighten it up (and draw it inwards, which essentially shortens it by one row). Can still roll back a cuff when needed, but it’s okay as-is, too.

For some reason, the front folds hang evenly when it’s one way out, but when it’s the other way out the collar on one side rolls much shorter and narrower than the other. It’s tempting to try to puzzle out why, but not tempting enough to actually try it.

July 7, 2019

I’ve been meaning to go back and post a picture of the finished sweater, but keep forgetting -- I wear it ALL THE TIME. I’ve put up a quick snapshot of it spread out on the carpet as better-than-nothing, but it really needs a while-being-worn photo to show how well it fits.

Note that instead of overlapping the front edges, it naturally falls with the shawl collar extended all the way to the bottom (except when it’s worn the other way out: then one side has a shawl collar extended into a lapel to the bottom while the other side curves into a short colla like it’s supposed to).