3 Different Sock Heels ~First Knitting Project~
Finished
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3 Different Sock Heels ~First Knitting Project~

Project info
Knitting
Needles & yarn
US 4 - 3.5 mm
6 stitches and 7 rows = 1 inch
Patons North America Classic Wool Worsted
Notes

Chart for foot measurements

https://www.knitgrammer.com/blog/foot-size-chart-for-sock...

https://myjewelthief.typepad.com/myjewelthief_knits/2009/...

As my boys became busier with high school sports and I would need to drive and wait at various practices to get to the next activities, I needed something to focus on and keep busy to calm my impatience. I started knitting’s.
I enjoy the endless discoveries and learning involved with knitting. It appeals to the color, texture, light loving part of my soul. It allows me to reflect and feel connected to previous generations. I love the history and stories behind patterns, designs or hearing about the animal the fleece is from. I’m from a chemistry background and enjoy the problem solving and research for finding a better way or forethought for more professional finishing techniques.
It’s an activity that requires intense mental focus, a hunger for learning, and a willingness to follow instructions meticulously. It engages your brain in a way that is at once low stakes, meditative, and highly productive.

Hiking socks for my three sons and husband.

The three different sock heels are Heel Flap and Gusset, Short Row, and Sweet Tomato Heel.

Taught my middle son to knit and he’s knitting his own Sweet Tomato red and charcoal socks in the fourth picture.

Used worsted wool on size 4needles for increases density of fabric. Gauge 5.8 spi

If using DK yarn: try US 3, 6-6.5 spi
https://www.masondixonknitting.com/a-dk-weight-sock-recipe/

For 7 y.o. used total 40 st. 6. 75” sock circ
For 11 y.o. used total 48 st. 8” sock circ
For mid-teen and adult men’s used total 56 st. for sock circ of 9.5” and gauge 5.8 spi.
https://www.craftyarncouncil.com/standards/foot-size-charts
https://www.goodknitkisses.com/Resources/sock-math-chart-...
https://knitty.com/sizing.php

https://www.10rowsaday.com/lib/sock-size-chart.pdf?fbclid...

Recommended yarn
https://pdf.ravelrycache.com/reenamd/982025/wool_review.p...

WYS Beg Socks Topics
https://www.winwickmum.co.uk/sockalong

Suggested gauge for denser gauge socks
Lt Fingering normal gauge 30-32 / 4” on US 1-1.5
Sock gauge 32-36/4”. on US 0-1
Heavy Fingering. 28/4”. US 2. 30- 32/4” US 1- 1.5
Sport. 25-26/4”. US 2.5-4 28/4”. US 2
DK. 22-24/4” US 4-6. 25-26/4” US 2.5-4
Worsted 20/4” US 7. 22/4”. US 4-6
Aran. 18/4” US 8
Bulky. 14/4”. US 10

Women’s shoe size
10 Foot Circ 9.75” Ft length10.5”Sock circ 8.75 Sock10”
4. 8. 8.25. 7.25. 8
6. 8.5. 9. 7.5. 8.25
8. 9.25. 9.5. 8.25. 9
Men’s shoe size 6 ft circ 9 ft length 9.5”
8. 9.5. 10”
10. 10.25. 10.75”
12. 10.75. 11.5”
Sock Height: women’s/men’s short 6/7 med 7/8 long 8/9”
(I like 9.5” height for women’s size 10sock length.)
Reference Tables for Socks http://kateatherley.com/resources-for-knitters/
https://www.interweave.com/article/knitting/how-a-sock-is...

Measuring foot for socks
https://youtu.be/LKwm3yJON7I

How to choose the type of sock heel:
https://www.alpacadirect.com/blogs/alpaca-direct-blog/how...

Do your socks need customization? (from knit socks plain and simple):
http://wynnknit.com/documents/Yarnover%20Toe%20Up%20Short...

Summary and when to start the heel
https://youtu.be/IYDzY-DEiQY

Summary w one garter st ridge before Zimmermann Sewn Bindoff. https://pdf.ravelrycache.com/Charisa/146548/Lifestyle_Toe...

https://freevintageknitting.com/socks/no308-socks-pattern...

Adjusting Helical Method Stripes for socks if working with 1 row for stripes or for alternating kettle dye variance yarn: https://grumperina.com/knitblog/archives/2008/04/as_you_w...

Different CastOns
Long Tail, Ribbed Alternating Cable, and Tubular https://brooklyntweed.com/pages/casting-on

Double Point Needles
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/double-pointed-needles/
https://pdf.ravelrycache.com/Martheme/35406/Men_s_Basic_S...

Knitted two at a time on magic loop:
https://youtu.be/EXEt5YHMgNU
Judy Becker’s magic cast on for toe up.
https://youtu.be/j5MaMEfAlew
Either:CastOn 16 sts and increase every round half increases and every other round next half of increases.
Or: CastOn 1/3 of total sock sts and increase every other round.
Long Tail Tubular Cast On in the Round
https://youtu.be/s767CqB1f0w
Rounded toe: I started with 74sts and decreased each side every second row 6 times, then every row five times, then finished with sssk and k3tog either side before grafting. 52sts decreased, leaving a 22sts for an 11st (either side) kitchener graft.
Toe increases M1L & R; yo and on next round slip to knitwise, place back on left needle and knit to twist it like Zimmerman left and right loop twists; Knit front and back” instead (though I offset the second one so the purl bumps are between the second and third stitch

Old Norwegian/ Twisted German elastic cast on for cuff down.
https://youtu.be/tLGWXtxEF8w

Heel Flap and Gusset
First sock ever (lower left w red trim) traditional heel flap and gusset as shown in this video but did it Two at a Time on long cabled needles.
https://youtu.be/dQW1cLPEUGE
Heel flap tutorial with percentages
http://www.maiaspins.typepad.com/maiaspins/2007/05/toeup_...

https://www.moderndailyknitting.com/socks-whats-all-the-f...
https://www.moderndailyknitting.com/techniques-depth-pick...
Toe-up Flap and gusset
https://www.moderndailyknitting.com/flap-gusset-heel-reci...

My very first knit project was sock w heel flap. This is great tutorial adaptable to any sock pattern:
https://youtu.be/dQW1cLPEUGE

Heel sts = 50% of sock sts
Heel rows = Heel sts x 0.8
Gusset sts = (0.50 x Heel Rows) + 2
Total sts after gusset pick up:
Instep sts + (Heel Base + 2) + both sets of gusset sts
Men size 11-13 has sock circ of 9.5”; 9spi; gusset 19 sts
Heel flap 34 rows; sock sts 86;
Yarn required: ankle length 334 yds; calf length 575 yds
Women’s siz 10 sock 8.75” ; 9 spi; gusset 18 sts per side
Heel flap 32 rows; sock sts 76.
Yarn required: ankle length 280 yds; calf 475 yds
Yarn required for 8” sock circ women’s size 10 and 9 spi is 425 yds.
My actual foot is 8.75” circ and ankle is 9” so sock sts 72.

Avoid Holes When Picking-up Gusset Sts
http://kateatherley.com/2010/01/12/on-picking-up-gusset-s...
Avoid holes with short row heels by Kate Atherley:
http://knitty.com/ISSUEfall08/FEATsocks102.html

Gusset Pickup on Heel Flap boardered by garter st to avoid holes (Charlene Schurch’s Method)
Roxanne showing Charlene Scurch’s Method:
https://youtu.be/rUxh_weue0w
https://youtu.be/xWne5ZKzvXo
Eye of Partridge Heel Flap w garter edge and Charlene Schurch’s method of picking up gusset sts:
https://knittingintherockies.wordpress.com/2015/02/13/mir...
https://youtu.be/qqmHZ6pY9Bw

Short Row Heels
Afterthought Heel for 10.25” length of foot length (size 42)
would start at 7.75” from toe. This is calculated by:
Negative ease for length of adult sock is 1/2” lees that actual foot length
(Negative ease for length of a child’s sock is 1/4”)
The short row heel is about 2” from apex
10.25” - 1/2” - 2” = 7.75”

Short row heel will result in 8” sock circ x 1.2= 9.6” diagonal but my measured diagonal 12.5” x 0.80 neg ease needs 10” diagonal. So 0.4” needs be be added to the diagonal; w my gauge of 9 spi, I need 4 more sts at diagonal. This can be increased in step 2 sts every other row or increased at either end of heel sts every other row forming a gusset before the short row heel, then decreased every other row before continuing w foot.
2. Or the 4 extra sts can be increased as 2 sts every other row and knit short row heel with original 50% of leg sts.
3.Or Crescent shaped 3 row mini gussets
https://knotions.com/issues/sock/article-sock/short-row-h...
http://knitbettersocks.blogspot.com/2011/12/improving-aft...
4. Or Mina’s 8 row mini heel flap above short row heel
https://s3.amazonaws.com/library.ravelry.com/MinaPhilipp/...

https://www.moderndailyknitting.com/sock-skills-tweaking-...

After the final short row all 36 sts on the heel needle have double wraps. One stitch was moved from either end of the instep stitches to be wrapped on the final knit and purl passes (after the last double-wrapped stitches were knit), then moved back to the instep needle. These single wraps were picked up on the first round after knitting in the round was resumed. This seems to smooth out the transition from short rows back to knitting in the round.https://youtu.be/ZahZE4GREr0

Different heels w photos and links
https://www.alpacadirect.com/blogs/alpaca-direct-blog/how...

Kate Atherley Dutch Band Heel and how to add small gusset to short row heels:
http://knitty.com/ISSUEfall08/FEATsocks102.html
https://knotions.com/issues/sock/article-sock/short-row-h...
Comparing Dutch vs Round Heel Turns
Use Round Heel for high instep
Use Dutch heel for flat feet that also don’t have high instep (some flat feet have high instep due to surgery of swelling)
Also use Dutch Heel in Cuff Down socks to reduce sts another 0.75” inch compared to round heel turn. If ankles are 1-2” larger than foot circ, an inch can be reduced after knitting leg, divide sts by 50% leg sts and reduce to 50% of foot sts in first row before starting heel. Then using the Dutch heel turn to have smaller gusset circ.
Round Heel starts 3 sts boast center before turn (narrower heel base) but reduces heel sts by half which is less reduction than Dutch resulting in about 0.75” more circ after heel turn for high instep. The Dutch heel turn begins by dividing heel sts into thirds and knitting across 2/3 of the sts before turning. Heel Base is center third. The Dutch heel turn reduces 2/3 of the heel sts —more stitches than the Round Heel therefore the circumference after heel turn is about 0.75” smaller and will fit flat feet better.

Comparing Dutch (square) and French (tapered Heel cup)
from 19 century Weldon’s socks updated in Nancy Bush’s Vintage Socks to Knit book https://www.interweave.com/article/needlework/french-heel...

Adding Gussets to Afterthought Heel
http://knitbettersocks.blogspot.com/2011/12/improving-aft...

Start any short row heel 2” shorter than length.

Calculate Heel Base to custom fit Heel Diagonal
https://youtu.be/ah9wAEeFiyE

Compare sock circumference to sock diagonal
https://youtu.be/plGnKf8wcUk
Foot diagonal is 12.5” x 0.80 = 10” target sock diagonal
SockCirc of 7.5 x 1.2 = 9”

W&T Short row heel without holes:
https://youtu.be/ZahZE4GREr0

Japanese Short Row Heel:
https://youtu.be/NzzVNQ7SGbc
https://www.thechillydog.com/2016/11/knitting-tutorial-ja...

Comparing Short Row Techniques: w&t and twin st both carry working yarn across neighboring st in back. German short rows and Japanese short rows produce exact same end result of how the yarn traveled.
https://youtu.be/yYk6BUeSgBA

German Short Row Heel https://youtu.be/zcHQ9-BEmOM
3 versions of German Short Row Heels
https://youtu.be/zywKS3jj0rg
https://youtu.be/Ex_4oc7ZyLQ
German Short Row Heel Pattern has the 2 rows stockinette midway through heel to avoid the problem of DS being stacked but this approach makes the 2 rows stockinette contained just on the heel sts instead of having to knit two rows across the instep. This would be an especially good technique if using a contrast heel and you didn’t want two rows of contrast color across the instep.

Stop at end of round, drop MC. Move to beg
of needle 2 and with CC work the heel as follows:
Move 1 st from ea end of needle 1 to needle 2. Starting at needle 2 with CC, work German Short Row Heel.

Row 1 (RS): Knit until 1 st rem at end of needle, turn,

Row 2 (WS): WYIF sl 1 st to right needle purlwise (all slipped stitches in this heel pattern will be slipped purlwise), pull the working yarn over the top of the right needle, pulling the slipped stitch up, creating a DS, purl until 1 st rem at end of needle, turn,

Row 3: WYIF sl 1 st to right needle, pull the working yarn over the top of the right needle, pulling the slipped stitch up, creating a DS, knit to the 1st DS, turn,

Row 4: WYIF sl 1 st to right needle, pull the working yarn over the top of the right needle, pulling the slipped stitch up, creating a DS, purl to the 1st DS, turn,

Continue working rows 3 and 4 until there are 11 center sts between the DSs, turn,

Row 1 (RS): WYIF, sl 1 st to right needle, create DS, knit to first DS, pm, knit the DS as one st, continue across working DSs as one st until 1 st rem, k1, turn,

Row 2 (WS): WYIF, p until first DS, pm, purl each DS together as 1 st until 1 st rem, p1, turn,

Row 3: WYIF, create DS, knit to second marker, drop m, k1, turn,

Row 4: DS, p to first m, drop m, p1, turn,

Row 5: DS, k to first DS, k DS, k1, turn,

Row 6: DS, p to first DS, p DS, p1, turn,

Repeat rows 5 & 6 until 1 DS remains at end of row 6, turn
DS, work to the end of the row, drop and break the contrast color yarn. There will be 2 DSs at right side of needle 2. With MC, starting at needle 1, work across needles 1 & 2 (first 2 sts on needle 2 will be DSs, k each one as 1 st) until 1 st rem on needle 2, move 1 st from ea end of needle 2 to needle 1.

If doing w&t, One stitch was moved from either end of the instep stitches to be wrapped on the final knit and purl passes (after the last double-wrapped stitches were knit), then moved back to the instep needle. These single wraps were picked up on the first round after knitting in the round was resumed. This seems to smooth out the transition from short rows back to knitting in the round.

To avoid holes caused by the short row heel being two rows taller than the instep, start knitting across instep when you still have a double stitch or wrap at each end of heel.
When you have worked the last st in the instep, use the left needle tip to lift the left leg of the st 2 rows below the st just worked and place this lifted leg onto the left needle tip, in front of the back of heel sts. Then knit this lifted leg together w the first of the heel sts as K2tog. Work across to 1 st before end of heel sts, then slip this last st knitwise to the right needle. Use the right needle tip to lift the right leg of the st directly below the nest st on the left needle which is the first st of the instep. Insert tip of the left needle into these 2 sts and knit them together through the back loops as for an SSK decrease.
Pick up grandmother stitch and K2tog at the right of heel sts and SSK w lifted st at left end of heel:
http://fleeglesblog.blogspot.com/2007/09/no-sock-holes-fo...

Afterthought Short Row w Gusset:
I have made a sock in the past that was knit cuff down with an afterthought heel that still included a gusset - the waste stitches were added in 3 rows where the middle one included increases. I’ve found a pattern that works the same way when working toe up, but it was written for sport weight yarn.

Sweet Tomato Heels regular and padded versions
Sweet Tomato Heel regular (in orange)
https://youtu.be/EWpRABD7UWw

Padded version of Sweet Tomato Heel in white and slate heels
https://youtu.be/lgBUadTQR8k
http://knitbettersocks.blogspot.com/2013/07/sweet-tomato-...

German Short Row Heelhttps://youtu.be/Ex_4oc7ZyLQ

German Band Heel Flaphttp://knitty.com/ISSUEfall08/FEATsocks102.html

Fleegle Heel:https://youtu.be/qMrGhzUp6LE
Different Heels from Around the World
https://curlsandq.wordpress.com/sock-heel-patterns-glossary/

Photo comparison of different heels
https://www.alpacadirect.com/blogs/alpaca-direct-blog/how...

TAAT w Fleegle Heel
https://youtu.be/idjKaBwJzD0

Strong heel (faux gusset)
https://www.theknittingsquirrel.com/heather-socks-featuri...

http://puritantherapy.blogspot.com/2013/08/who-needs-patt...

Correlated ribbing need to CastOn same number of stitches as main body of sock; whereas ribbing that is stretchy, you’d need to CastOn fewer stitches then increase on first row after ribbing. For example: if using 2x2 ribbing: CastOn 72 sts in fingering using purl CastOn or in German Twisted CastOn. Then purl one row then knit ribbing. Increase stitch count to 80 sts tbefore beginning the leg. If using correlated ribbing, CastOn the 80 sts (or same stitch count as for leg).

Typical CastOn for large women’s 72sts
Typical CastOn for men’s socks 80 sts in fingering
Typical CastOn for mitts 72 sts in fingering

2x2 ribbing, 3x1 ribbing, and 3x1 ribbing w a central slip stitch in its design.
Seed Rib: Odd rows:k7, p1, Even Rows all knit.

Jogless stripes:Join in the new colour and knit the first round as normal in the new colour.
When you come to the first stitch in the new colour at the start of the round after that, slip it rather than knitting it. That just smooths things out a bit. Simple, and pretty effective. Hope that helps!

Bind Offs
Invisible ribbed bindoffs
https://crankygrrrrrl.wordpress.com/2007/01/15/k1p1-invis...

Russian Bind-off:
https://youtu.be/BJjm3PWGT2M

Stretchy Picot Bindoff
https://knitpurlhunter.com/blog/stretchy-picot-bind-off/

To lengthen/shorten middle of knitting:
http://techknitting.blogspot.co.uk/2008/01/length-reassig...
http://chicknits.com/rambles/?p=16612

Yarn yardage per 50g:
https://www.thecraftyjackalope.com/pages/standard-yarn-we...

I liked the garter stitch boarder on the heel flap.

https://youtu.be/IovIZUyKLgo

Kitchener Graft
Kitchener modified for smoother corners of sock
https://youtu.be/eFHXnvfmoBE
http://www.louisetilbrookdesigns.net/blog/2017/3/7/never-
https://www.masondixonknitting.com/techniques-depth-socks...

Rox’s Alternative Finchley Graft for Closing Toes (smooth corners)
https://youtu.be/h3sD_RU720c

To remember Kitchener St:
https://youtu.be/nkW3kP7RZdk
Tensioning Kitchener,:
http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEsummer04/FEATtheresasum04.html

Different toe closures including Barn Toe
https://www.interweave.com/article/knitting/socktoberfest...


Rounded Toe w Staggered Decrease Columns over 26 rows
have adapted it from something I found on Ravelry years ago. I just modified it to have extra PLAIN rounds in the beginning as Rox explained in her toe video.
The total # of rows is 26. I love the staggered decreases by alternating the deacreases 1 from the edge to 4 from the edge.

Toe
K1 Dec
K 3 rounds
K3 Dec
K 2 rounds
k1 dec
k 2 rounds
k3 dec
k 1 round
k1 dec
k 1 round
k3 dec
k 1 round
k1 dec
k 1 round
k3 dec
k1 dec
k3 dec
k1 dec
k3 dec
k1 dec
k3 dec
k1 dec
graft 8 sts from each needle


Leg patterns:
Row 1 k2 p2
Row2 knit across

Baby cable Rib

R Twist: K2tog but leave on left needle and knit 1st st again before removing the old stitches
L Twist: slip each stitch individually knitwise and then replace them on the left needle, before knitting the second through the back loop and then both together through the back loops.

Cuff Ribbing: Comparing stretch between single and double ribbed:
https://tkga.org/wp-content/uploads/issue_archives/2015/S...

Different calculation approaches to sock length

  1. Sock length = foot length - length of toes
  2. In the formula I gave, the ribbing rows were 25% of the st count and the leg (after the ribbing) was 100% of the stitch count.

Most patterns don’t tell you to work a specific number of rounds for the leg, they’ll tell you to work the leg until it’s 6 or 6 1/2’’ long or to desired length (or for a specific number of pattern repeats, which will end up about 6 or 6 1/2’’ long).

Antique stocking patterns used this formula for knitting length based on stitch count in several ways. First, after knitting several inches of ribbing for the top of the stocking (which was thigh high), they’d have you knit as many rounds as you had stitches, then they’d have a section of decreases until you got to the “ankle” (which is the length of a modern mid-calf sock) and they’d have you knit again the number of rounds equivalent to the current stitch count. The way stockinette gauge works is that the sts are wider than the rows are long, so for every 3 sts in width, you get an equivalent 4 rows in length. So if you work as many rows as you have sts, you get something that is 3/4 as long as the item is in width/circumference, which is more or less how these different body parts are proportioned for the “average” person.

Another good beginner sock pattern w garter edged heel flap: https://www.winwickmum.co.uk/2014/05/basic-sock-pattern-a...

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About this pattern
Personal pattern (not in Ravelry)
About this yarn
by Patons North America
Worsted
100% Wool
194 yards / 100 grams

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  • Project created: March 8, 2017
  • Finished: December 12, 2017
  • Updated: April 25, 2023