After I knit this sweater, I had my sons choose their favorite color from the 4-color Fair Isle design and I knit each of them a sweater that year. Three of the sweaters are worn in the Christmas photo (Fair Isle, Norwegian Marius, and Northern European Guernseys). We are attending the annual Christmas train and poinsettia display at 1915 Garfield Park Conservatory.
Youngest son chose rust color and a button w a dragon.
Middle son chose bottle-green and Celtic buttons
Oldest chose ochre gold contrast w grey.
I taught myself to knit 6 months before and taught my midd.e son to knit and my youngest son to crochet. They brought their projects to join me at the kitchen table as I was working on this Hadley Fair Isle Sweater.
Traditions are the stories that families write together!

Knit sleeves first for gauge in round.
Sz 3 for sleeve ribbing. Cast on 52 St and knit ribbing until 4” length
Sz 6 for stockinette on sleeves. Knit until 19.25” length

Colorwork: to keep floats gentle loose, turn arm tube inside out and stretch stitches out across right needle just when carrying a longer float.
http://paper-tiger.net/blog/13911317/color dominance
Another way to keep floats loose is to turn work inside out.
https://blog.tincanknits.com/2015/05/26/how-to-knit-fair-...
https://youtu.be/YJdlBzrYKss

Small center-pull yarn balls with numerous Contrast Color yarns:
https://youtu.be/Eu18tEuBrH4

Color dominance: (want cc to be more prominent)hold cc in left hand so yarn comes from behind the background color held in right hand.
http://www.twistcollective.com/collection/component/conte...
Color dominance working right side and wrong side, and corrugated ribbing:
http://www.knittingtraditions.com/uncategorized/2010/03/y...

Color Value in Stranded Work:
http://knitty.com/ISSUEwinter06/FEATcolortheory.html
https://www.instagram.com/colorpalette.cinema/

Body: used sz 4 needles for body’s ribbing. Cast on 224 st and knit ribbing until 3” length.

Shaping decreases and increases: followed instructions for 4th size in pattern. Did half number of decreases/incr by only decreasing/incr on the outside of markers. 212 st before joining sleeves. Worked until body length was 18”.
Waist shaping by Amy Herzog:
http://www.amyherzogdesigns.com/2014/02/08/waist-shaping-...
Dart shaping:
http://explaiknit.typepad.com/let_me_explaiknit/page/4/
http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEdf11/FEATgreatfit.php

https://www.interweave.com/wp-content/uploads/knitting-in...

Choosing which way to lean decreases, in middle or along gusset edges:
http://explaiknit.typepad.com/let_me_explaiknit/page/4/

Video explains why SSK are looser looking than K2tog and three ways to neaten it up.
https://youtu.be/8aFvPWenmWE

Join sleeves to body. End row on the body section is at the back. Knit on left sleeve stitches, place a marker, knit across front of body, pm, knit on the right sleeve stitches, pm ,and,finally knit across the back and place a special beginning of round marker. Knit an inch before beginning Fair Isle design o yoke so the design isn’t distorted by underarm area.
http://blog.ysolda.com/ysolda-blog/2014/10/2/technique-th...

Weave in ends to maintain stretch of knitted fabric:
https://youtu.be/v-p4qsiyuI8

Braided Join:
https://youtu.be/2-u66X5RYjc

Kitchener stitch w no gaps:
http://www.laurachau.com/grafting-underarm-stitches-with-...

Used German short rows to raise back of neck.
Work collar ribbing until 3.5” length.

I ripped back before the short rows, removed a complete round before the last decreases, plus the 2 rounds after the last decrease. Went straight into short rows and added 1 set. This allows the yoke to lay flatter in front.
Considered converting the funnel neck to a fold overs:
Use shaping from the The Big Y (increases every other round on either side of the center ribs). Decided to keep the original funnel neck.

Pattern help
https://www.ravelry.com/discuss/designs-by-melanie-berg/3...

This pattern had you bind off the underarm edges to be seamed together later:
Invisible seam on two bind off edges
https://youtu.be/3WKmasVmSB0

Different Bind offs I tried on this project:
1) K2tog tbl: This stretchy bind off for ribbed, garter st or stockinette edging. Lial says it’s similar in stretch to Iceladic Bind off: k2, •slip left needle on top of right needle through the 2 stitches and
K2tog tbl. K1• If next stitch is purl: purl, insert left needle under right needle to P2 tog.
https://youtu.be/cGHItYwr1us
http://slipslipknit.com/?page_id=92
Compares four different bindoffs that match different cast ons: https://youtu.be/oFbFnfdl4Cc

2) Icelandic Bind off: stretchy, looks same on both sides, has a thicker cord-like quality similar to I-cord bind off.
https://youtu.be/cGHItYwr1us

There’s a Russian Bind Off that’s executed similar to Iceladic as you slip stitch onto left needle, go through this stitch purlwise to go through the 2nd stitch on left needle knitwise, but knit the 2nd stitch, then bring the new stitch through the first stitch you had slipped through pw. This makes the bound off stitches looser looking. Might use for top of sock cuff but not sweater neck.

3) JSSBO (Jenny’s Super Stretchy Bind Off) similar stretch as the worked stitch,then K2tog but has an additional bar under the bind off. A bit of flare in this bind off compared to the K2 tog. The K2tog b.o. looks better on ribbing if combined w P2 tog which wasn’t used in the following video. So try samples of bind offs and compare.
https://youtu.be/FDY3zR34IsI

4) Lori’s Twisty Bind off (Lorraine) very stretchy w less flare and fast and easy.
https://youtu.be/5YzKPDOZrPc

Used EZ sewn bind off because it is stretchier and more subtle-- only drawback is switching to a darning needle which isn’t a problem with short edge like neck or sleeve. The K2 tog tbl or Icelandic would be great w longer edging like a shawl or blanket.
How to: with darning needle, go in the first 2 stitches on left needle purlwise. Draw yarn through keeping stitches on left needle. Then go into first stitch on left needle knitwise, slip that stitch off and pull yarn through.
https://youtu.be/Ibn-01Ilxpg

More bind offs and discussion of them:
https://sites.google.com/site/oftroysgoldenapples/home/tu...

Increases:
Twisted YO for increase that won’t distort surrounding stitches.
https://www.knitburo.com/twisted-yarn-overs-and-the-byo/
Twisted YO is set up one row before you need it and twisted close on the increase row by knitting into front or back leg. Same result as Zimmermann twisted loop (working yarn exits behind for left leaning;back working yarn exits in front for right leaning) if you prefer to not have to think ahead of doing YO or BYO on previous row.
Comparison of Various Increases:
http://www.twistcollective.com/collection/index.php/compo...

Interesting Tech Knitter looking at edge stitch anatomy and behavior http://techknitting.blogspot.com/2007/10/opera-and-soap-o...

https://knithacker.com/2018/04/the-bed-your-kitty-cat-dre...