Mrs Gaugain describes the bootees thus: Worked in stocking stitch, the sole of which is marked out like the sole of a shoe by a back stitch; the heel part of the sole is done in garter-stitch; the other part is like a leather shoe, with a strap behind; the instep of shoe is very high, finished by a little bit of ribbed knitting, the strap and ribbed part is done in white, the other part worked in blue. Use four wires, no. 17.

No mention is made of the kind of wool to use.

Back stitch is the term used for purl when this pattern was published in 1840.