cold heart coat by Lily Kate France

cold heart coat

Knitting
February 2022
Jumbo (0-4 wpi) ?
8 stitches and 16 rows = 4 inches
in garter stitch
US 17 - 12.0 mm
692 - 1095 yards (633 - 1001 m)
3 sizes to cover bust 28-62" / 71-157 cm
English
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The cosiest knit you ever did see! The Cold Heart Coat is warm and chunky with elegant details and a refined finish.

YARN
Super chunky / bulky weight yarn, approximately 635 (792; 1005) metres / 692 (863; 1095) yards. See Notes on choosing yarn.

Sample shown in We Are Knitters The Wool in shade Pearly Grey. If using this yarn, you will need 8 (10; 12) skeins.

Yarns used by test knitters:
Wool and The Gang Crazy Sexy Wool
Wool Ease Thick and Quick
Lion Brand Tuff Puff

GAUGE
8 sts and 16 rows to 4 inches / 10 cm in garter stitch on 12mm needles.

NEEDLES & NOTIONS
12mm long circular needles for body (see Notes)
12mm circular needle(s) of your preferred length for working sleeves in the round (ie. DPNs, magic loop)
Crochet hook for provisional cast on
8 stitch markers of 1 type, 2 stitch markers of a different type, and 4 stitch markers of a 3rd type.
Scrap yarn for holding stitches
Oddments of lighter weight yarn in a matching colour for sewing pocket linings
Cable needle (only used once on sleeves)

SIZING
Rather than my usual 9 sizes, this coat pattern is written in 3 sizes to cover the same range (28-62” bust). It is crucial that you do not size up or overestimate your own measurements, as the weight of the coat will mean it simply falls off.

1st size: bust 28-33” OR people with a petite / narrow frame
2nd size: bust 34-46” (shown in sample)
3rd size: bust 47-62”

Construction: the chunky coat is worked seamlessly from the top down in garter stitch. It begins at the centre of the collar, which is cast on using the provisional method for a seamless result. Stitches are picked up along the collar edge to begin working the yoke. Slipped stitch details travel along the raglan ‘seams’, down the sleeves, and along the front edges. A faux cable detail travels down the back, however this is created using twisted stitches so there is no need for a cable needle.

At the end of the deep yoke, stitches are divided to work the main body and sleeves separately. Fairly soon after dividing, the pockets are created, followed by short rows to dip the back hem.

The sleeves are worked in the round in garter stitch (ie. alternating a knit round with a purl round) and feature a twisted stitch detail to echo the back panel.

Choosing yarn: there is a huge variety of yarns classed as super chunky / super bulky - some are much thicker than others. The yarn used in the sample is definitely at the thicker end, and choosing a yarn that is too fine will result in a looser gauge. A loose gauge for garter stitch means the stitches are able to slide against each other, resulting in a fabric with too much vertical stretch and not enough structure. The fabric needs to be dense and bouncy when knitted to the specified gauge. As a rough guide, look for yarns with approximately 40-50m per 100g.

Needles: the main body of the cardigan is worked flat but the stitch counts are too large to fit on straight needles. I would recommend using the longest circular needles you can find, or you may find it more comfortable to spread the stitches across 2 or more needles at times.

Markers: you may wish to make stitch markers out of loops of coloured yarn to avoid having too many bulky annoying markers on the needle. Once the pattern is established you may be able to remove the markers and simply read the knitting to see where to increase / slip a stitch, but this depends on your experience as a knitter.

I LOVE seeing people knit my patterns and make them their own - if you could tag @lilykatemakes and #ColdHeartCoat on Instagram that would be great!

The Cold Heart Coat is a #sizeinclusive pattern.