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Fair Isle bottom up
This jumper, made using Bio Lana yarn, is worked bottom-up. Once the armhole is reached, the work is divided into front and back, which are then worked separately. A few stitches are added at the sides to enhance the dropped shoulder effect. The front features a classic neckline, with stitches picked up afterwards to work the neckband. The sleeves are worked later, in the round, by picking up stitches from the armhole and knitting down towards the cuff.
This garment is designed to have a relaxed fit: the sample shown is a size M and has a positive ease of approximately 12 cm.
The body is worked entirely in Fair Isle motifs, which continue even after the work is divided into front and back sections. To avoid working Fair Isle flat (back and forth), you may choose to follow only part of the diagram, allowing the Fair Isle section to end before the armhole shaping begins.
Please note that the needle size is only a guideline: every knitter has a different tension (also known as hand), so a swatch knitted by two people using the same yarn and stitch count can result in very different tension and measurements.
It is therefore recommended to knit a swatch, either flat or in the round, depending on how the garment is constructed. Aim for a swatch that measures at least 10 x 10 cm, allowing for a few extra stitches and rows in garter stitch at the edges if needed, to prevent curling. This will make it easier to take accurate measurements of your tension.
The swatch should be worked in stocking stitch or in the stitch pattern you plan to use for the garment. Once the swatch is complete and removed from the needles, lay it flat (ideally, measure it after washing and drying, as you would treat the finished garment). Measure the number of stitches and rows over 10 cm.
In this particular case, it is recommended to knit two swatches: one in plain stocking stitch, and another in stocking stitch with the Fair Isle motifs. Although both use the same base stitch, Fair Isle knitting often requires more ease to maintain a similar tension, so checking both is essential for a consistent fabric.
As the jumper is worked partly in the round and partly back and forth, it is also advisable to test both methods in your swatches. It is not uncommon for your tension to vary between circular and flat knitting.
Understanding your personal knitting hand is key to achieving the best results! :)
SIZE
XS (S) M (L) XL
FINISHED BUST
46 (49) 52 (55) 58 cm
HEIGHT OF THE FINISHED SWEATER
50 (54) 58 (62) 66 cm
SUGGESTED YARNS
BIO LANA by Lane Mondial (100% Organic Wool; 100 m / 50 g)
YARN REQUIREMENT
150 (200) 250 (300) 350 g of col. 369
150 (150) 200 (250) 300 g of col. 417
50 g each of col. 341, 887, 619, and 368
SUGGESTED NEEDLES
Circular needle tips in size 5 mm and 5.5 mm (short tips recommended for 5 mm)
40 cm and 80 cm cables
GAUGE
10x10 cm = 19 sts and 23 r in stocking st with Bio Lana yarn using 5 mm needles
10x10 cm = 21 sts and 21 r in stocking st with Fair Isle pattern using Bio Lana yarn and 5.5 mm needles
TECHNIQUES
Tubular bind off (worked flat)
Twisted 1x1 rib
Stocking stitch
Fair Isle
Magic loop
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- First published: April 2025
- Page created: April 9, 2025
- Last updated: April 10, 2025 …
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