Do you like heel flaps, but not picking up the gusset stitches? You’re in the right place!
These are cuff-down socks that feature a heel flap construction technique with NO picking up stitches for the gusset; you make them as you go! By the time you’re done with the heel turn, the gusset stitches are already there waiting, and you simply continue on in the round. These socks are vanilla, so that you can focus on the unique heel method.

I do not claim in any way to have invented this technique; I simply figured it out on my own and decided to share it as a pattern.

Finished Sizes
Full range of generic sizes for adult feet, from women’s extra small to men’s extra large, AND 5 heel flap length options for all sizes.

Foot length of each size is adjustable.

TO CHOOSE YOUR SIZE: These socks are made with 1 inch (2.5 cm) of negative ease for both foot/leg circumference and foot length. Measure your foot/leg circumference, delete 1 inch (or 2.5 cm), and select from the following.

Size 1: Foot/leg circumference 7 in (18 cm), foot length from back of heel to toe 7.5 in (19 cm)
Size 2: Foot/leg circumference 7.5 in (19 cm), foot length from back of heel to toe 8 in (20 cm)
Size 3: Foot/leg circumference 8 in (20 cm), foot length from back of heel to toe 8.5 in (21.5 cm)
Size 4: Foot/leg circumference 8.5 in (21.5 cm), foot length from back of heel to toe 9 in (23 cm)
Size 5: Foot/leg circumference 9 in (23 cm), foot length from back of heel to toe 9.5 in (24 cm)
Size 6: Foot/leg circumference 9.5 in (24 cm), foot length from back of heel to toe 10 in (25.5 cm)
Size 7: Foot/leg circumference 10 in (25.5 cm), foot length from back of heel to toe 10.5 in (26.5 cm)

Heel flap lengths:

• 2 in (5 cm)
• 2.5 in (6 cm)
• 3 in (7.5 cm)
• 3.5 in (9 cm)
• 4 in (10 cm)

Pattern Features

• Detailed written instructions
• Instructions for both magic loop/2 circulars and 4 double-pointed needles methods of working in the round
• Picture tutorials for lifted increases, shadow wraps, and Kitchener Stitch
• A link to my YouTube tutorial for the Heel Flap Alternative method

Heel Flap Alternative YouTube Tutorial
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QxFvnNvZgVE&t=772s

If the link doesn’t open, type “heel flap alternative tutorial” in the YouTube search bar, keyboard language set to English; a thumbnail of my hands and grey yarn should appear in the results.

Required Skills
This is what you need to know to make the socks:

• Lifted increases
• Make one increases
• Shadow wraps OR any short row method
• Kitchener Stitch
• Knit 2 together/ slip, slip, knit decreases

Picture tutorials are provided in the pattern for lifted increases, shadow wraps, and Kitchener Stitch.

My YouTube tutorial (link above) shows how to do lifted increases and shadow wraps. Links to other YouTube tutorials for these same techniques are listed in the video description.

Gauge

Horizontal: 8.5 stitches per inch (26 stitches = 10 cm) in stockinette stitch
Vertical: 10.5 rounds per inch (2.5 cm) in stockinette stitch

Needles

• Double-pointed needles, 2 sets of circular (cable) needles in preferred length, OR 32 in (80 cm) circular (cable) needles in US 0 (2.0 mm), or size needed to obtain gauge
• Optional: 9 in (23 cm) circular (cable) needles in US 0 (2.0 mm), or size needed to obtain gauge for cuff Note: The same needle size is used for the cuff as for the rest of the sock.

Yarn
Any fingering weight yarn with a gauge of 8.5 stitches per inch (2.5 cm).

I used Urth Yarns Uneek Sock Kit #52, approximately 400 yards.

Yardage
Recommended for each size, respectively:

• Sizes 1-3: 400 yards
• Size 4-5: 450 yards
• Size 6-7: 500 yards

Notions

• Recommended: Scrap yarn, two stitch holders, or an extra set of double-pointed needles in US 0 (2.0 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge
• Stitch markers
• Tapestry needle