Herringbone Toque by Christine Guest

Herringbone Toque

September 2014
Worsted (9 wpi) ?
23 stitches = 4 inches
in rib and welt diagonals
US 8 - 5.0 mm
127 - 154 yards (116 - 141 m)
24 (21.25, 18.5) inches/61 (54, 47) cm around at brim, 9.5 (8.5, 7.25) inches/24 (21.5, 18.5) cm from brim to crown.
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The Herringbone Toque is knit sideways on the
bias from crown to brim. I love unusual construction methods, but it’s a relief when the finished object looks normal, especially if I’m planning to give it as a gift. When the photography model tried on this hat, she liked it so much that she wanted to buy it.

The hat project started when my husband suggested that I wear the Herringbone Cowl as a head band to keep my ears warm, and why not make it into a hat? I was about to tell him that the construction could not be done, when my mischievous brain showed me that it wasn’t impossible, just weird…in a good way.

The sections are trapezoids. The crown has both decreases and short rows, and the brim has increases, all at an inconsistent rate to compensate for the natural
distortion of the fabric. Every 12 rows, the strip returns
to the very top of the crown, concealing the wrapped stitches of the short rows. In the end, it is either grafted or 3 needle bound off to the provisionally cast on beginning stitches, then the hole at the crown is gathered with a running stitch.

If you glance at Cattywampus Hat you’ll truly understand the construction.

The different sizes are achieved by shorter strips, and more or fewer repeats. Since the fabric is on the bias, both the row and stitch gauge come into play, you may need a different amount of repeats than I did.
Skills needed: Grafting, Running Stitch, Weaving in ends of yarn, concealing wrapped stitches, wrapping and turning stitches.

There is a tutorial for adding an i-cord edge to a bias fabric at http://www.christineguestdesigns.com/blog/adding-a-i-cord-edging-to-a-diagonal-edge/

Thanks to Heather Zoppetti, tech editor, and
FromMy2Hands2009, Heidi197, SlusserJewels, bobnlin, and Kenyetta for test knitting.