Of the leading knitting pattern designer-publishers of the day, Copley’s was way ahead of its competitors in launching leaflets for Tyrolean jackets. Evidence points to them being credited with publishing the very first pattern bearing the name of Tyrolean as early as 1936, even before the first British magazines began to feature these.

Having first come across this design as Copley’s leaflet, the hunt began to track down which issue of Picturegoer had featured the pattern, as mentioned on the leaflet cover. The detective work eventually revealed the exact issue, which very satisfyingly gives us a precise date for when the pattern was first launched.

Who would have thought it possible to be able to pinpoint this so precisely, but here we have the charming American actress, June Clyde, living and working in England at the time, endorsing the new Tyrolean style which she promotes as her own (and why not!). The article does not name the designer, but uses Copley’s wools, and shortly afterwards the same pattern is published by them as leaflet number 637 with a delightful quote by June Clyde to strengthen its promotion. Their listings show that they also issued another Lady’s Tyrolean Jacket pattern at the same time – number 636 – but unfortunately this pattern has so far proved elusive.

Picturegoer seems a most unlikely publication to feature knitting instructions and possibly the very first named Tyrolean knitted jacket pattern. This was neither a needlework nor a general lady’s magazine, but a widely popular British publication of a weekly issue centred around the thriving cinema industry. With its huge following, the magazine reflected the power and reach of the cinema and its idols, which should not be even slightly underestimated at this time. This popular publication had a far-reaching influence, presenting ‘behind the scenes’ stories about the stars, with the ability to promote any message to their audience by association with featured celebrities. This is still a most powerful vehicle and as familiar to us today as it was then, but bear in mind that there was not the competition from wider platforms which we know today. Their message was stronger for being more focused.

The wording on the leaflet seems to indicate that Picturegoer had agreed some exclusivity for the launch of the pattern before Copley’s released the pattern as their own. This gives some indication of the force of the market, where the magazine ensured it was first to publicize a Tyrolean pattern. The endearing editorial notes by June Clyde on the cover of the Copley’s leaflet refer to the earlier Picturegoer article of which she was so proud, and her obvious enthusiasm for this new style.

This year’s loveliest hand-knits seem to have been inspired by the Tyrol – and isn’t mine the prettiest of all? Look at these cute ‘buttons’ which are just tufts of gay wool. And the cable effect – simply ribbing drawn together at intervals by two or three colourful stitches! I felt it would be a shame to keep such a gem all to myself so I gladly agreed to let the instructions be published. You’ll find it easy and quick to make and I hope you’ll love it as much as I do.

What makes it all the more intriguing is that Picturegoer did not feature knitted fashions on a regular basis and, with only a few of their weekly issues offering patterns for knitwear endorsed by a leading lady, we find here what is most probably the very first Tyrolean knitting pattern bearing the glorious title ‘June Clyde sets a fashion!’

If it is possible to set a precise date to the first publicly available Tyrolean knitting pattern in Britain, here it is: Saturday, 17 October 1936.

With great faith that this is one of the first – if not the very first – published Tyrolean pattern available in Britain, it is included here in all its glory, with updated instructions and knitted up in a modern yarn that matches the original perfectly. It is simple to knit, and the ‘smocking’ effect which is created after knitting was very fashionable at the time, as found in many contemporary patterns. The added embellishments of coloured edgings and tassels are unmistakably Tyrolean in style.

Materials

• 6 × 100 g balls Main colour (M) cream
• 1 × 100 g ball red
• 1 × 100 g ball yellow
• 7 × buttons if you prefer these to the tufts
• 1 pair 4 mm/8 needles
• 1 × pair 4.5 mm/7 (5 mm/6) needles
• 1 × 4 mm crochet hook