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The Juno Sweater is a drop shoulder sweater available in both a DK and a Chunky gauge. The sweater is worked top-down and mostly in the round, but you will sometimes work flat, too. It has been designed with tweed or speckled yarns in mind, since the minimal details allow the yarn to shine.

You will begin by casting on stitches to form the yoke, which you will shape with leaning increases on the right and wrong sides of the work. You will initially work the yoke flat, but you will join to work in the round following some neckline shaping. When the yoke is the correct width for your size, you will then separate the front and the back panel stitches and work them flat until they are each the right length for your size. From there, you will once again join to work the body in the round. You have the option of working some decreases through the length of the body, but this is totally optional.

You will then pick up and knit stitches to form each sleeve. The sleeves are decorated with slipped stitches, which continues the line formed from the yoke shaping. Finally, you will apply the collar which is worked in a mixture of Stockinette stitch and 1x1 rib.

Please note that the grading has been adjusted slightly from the test knit based on test knitters’ feedback.

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DK WEIGHT DETAILS:

Notions: You will need 3 mm / US 2.5 (40- and 80- or-100-cm / 16- and 32- or 40-in cord) and 4 mm / US 6 (40-, 60-, and 80- or 100-cm / 40-, 24-, and 32-in cord circular needles. You will also need at least 4 ring stitch markers, a darning needle and either scrap yarn, spare circular needles, or stitch holders for the resting stitches. You may find it helpful to use clip-on stitch markers to check the length of your work.

Tension: 20 stitches x 28 rows/rounds in Stockinette stitch on 4 mm / US 6 = 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 in.

Sizing and ease: The Juno Sweater DK has a recommended positive ease of 10–15 cm / 4–6 in for Sizes A-H and 5-15 cm / 2-6 in for Sizes I-L around the chest (or the widest part of your torso). However, if you wanted less ease, you would be welcome to choose a smaller size relative to your chest measurement and vice versa.

Size: A (B) C (D), E (F) G (H), I (J) K (L)

Chest measurement (cm): 75-80 (80-85) 85-90 (90-95), 95-100 (100-105) 105-110 (110-115), 115-125 (125-135) 135-145 (145-155)
Chest measurement (in): 29.5-31.5 (31.5-33.5) 33.5-35.5 (35.5-37.5), 37.5-39.25 (39.25-41.25) 41.25-43.25 (43.25-45.25), 45.25-49.25 (49.25-53.25) 53.25-57 (57-61)

Actual circumference of garment at chest (cm): 95 (100) 105 (110), 115 (120) 126 (130), 135 (145) 155 (165)
Actual circumference of garment at chest (in): 37.5 (39.5) 41.25 (43.25), 45.25 (47.25) 49.5 (51.25), 53.25 (57) 61 (65)

Sleeve circumference at upper arm (cm): 36.5 (37.5) 38.5 (39.5), 41.5 (42.5) 43.5 (46.5), 48.5 (50.5) 54.5 (58.5)
Sleeve circumference at upper arm (in): 14.25 (14.75) 15.25 (16.25), 16.75 (17.25) 18 (18), 19 (20) 21.5 (23)

Armhole depth (cm): 17 (17.5) 18 (18.5), 19.5 (20) 20.5 (21.5), 23 (24) 26 (28)
Armhole depth (in): 6.5 (6.75) 7 (7.25), 7.5 (7.75) 8 (8.5), 9 (9.5) 10.25 (11)

Recommended sleeve length (cm): 46.5 (46) 46 (45.5), 45.5 (45) 45 (44.5), 44 (43.5) 43 (42.5)
Recommended sleeve length (in): 19.25 (18) 18 (18), 18 (17.75) 17.75 (17.5), 17.25 (17.25) 17 (16.75)

Body length from cast-on edge to hem at centre back (cm): 56.5 (57) 57 (58), 58.5 (58.5) 59.5 (60), 60.5 (62) 63.5 (65)
Body length from cast-on edge to hem at centre back (in): 22.25 (22.5) 22.5 (22.75), 23 (23) 23.5 (23.75), 23.75 (24.5) 25 (25.5)

My sample garments are Size C, worn with about 11 cm / 4.25 in positive ease.

Yarn: For Sample 1, I used Isager Tweed (70% wool, 30% mohair; 50 g = 200 m / 219 yds) in the shade Topaz held with Isager Silk Mohair (75% super kid mohair, 25% silk; 25 g = 212 m / 232 yds in the shade 41. For Sample 2 (see above photos) I used Isager Tweed in the shade Thunder held with Knitting for Olive Soft Silk Mohair (70% mohair, 30% silk; 25 g = 225 m / 246 yds) in the shade Dusty Aqua.

If you do want to use the same yarns as me, this works out to be 5 (5) 5 (5), 5-6 (6) 6 (6), 6-7 (7) 7-8 (8) hanks of Isager Tweed, and 4 (4) 5 (5), 5 (5) 5 (5-6), 6 (6) 7 (7) balls of Knitting for Olive Soft Silk Mohair.

If you want to use different yarns, I estimate that you will need approximately 840 (880) 920 (960), 1000 (1040) 1080 1120, 1180 (1260) 1380 (1490) m / 920 (960) 1000 (1050), 1100 (1140) 1180 (1230), 1290 (1370) 1510 (1630) yds of both a fingering- and lace-weight yarn, or a DK-weight yarn if you prefer to work with a single strand.

If you did want to use a different yarn, you should substitute a sport- or light DK-weight yarn for Isager Tweed and a lace-weight yarn for Knitting for Olive Soft Silk Mohair, or you could use a heavier DK-weight yarn by itself if you’d rather use a single strand.

Where possible, I strongly recommend using a yarn with a good amount of drape based on test knitters’ feedback.

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CHUNKY WEIGHT DETAILS:

Notions: You will need 5 mm / US 8 (40- and 80- or-100-cm / 16- and 32- or 40-in cord) and 6 mm / US 10 (40-, 60-, and 80- or 100-cm / 16-, 24-, and 32- or 40-in cord circular needles. You will also need at least 4 ring stitch markers, a darning needle and either scrap yarn, spare circular needles, or stitch holders for the resting stitches. You may find it helpful to use clip-on stitch markers to check the length of your work.

Tension: 14 stitches x 20 rows/rounds in Stockinette stitch on 6 mm / US 10 needles = 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 in.

Sizing and ease: The Juno Sweater Chunky has a recommended positive ease of 15–20 cm / 6–8 in for Sizes A-H and 10-20 cm / 4-8 in for Sizes I-L around the chest (or the widest part of your torso). However, if you wanted less ease, you would be welcome to choose a smaller size relative to your chest measurement and vice versa.

Size: A (B) C (D), E (F) G (H), I (J) K (L)

Chest measurement (cm): 75-80 (80-85) 85-90 (90-95), 95-100 (100-105) 105-110 (110-115), 115-125 (125-135) 135-145 (145-155)
Chest measurement (in): 29.5-31.5 (31.5-33.5) 33.5-35.5 (35.5-37.5), 37.5-39.25 (39.25-41.25) 41.25-43.25 (43.25-45.25), 45.25-49.25 (49.25-53.25) 53.25-57 (57-61)

Actual circumference of garment at chest (cm): 95.5 (100) 105.5 (110), 115.5 (120) 125.5 (130), 135.5 (145.5) 155.5 (165.5)
Actual circumference of garment at chest (in): 37.75 (39.25) 41.5 (43.25), 45.5 (47.25) 49.5 (51.25), 53.5 (57.25) 61.25 (65.25)

Sleeve circumference at upper arm (cm): 39.5 (40.5) 40.5 (42), 45 (45) 46.5 (48), 51 (53.5) 58 (60.5)
Sleeve circumference at upper arm (in): 15.5 (16) 16 (16.5), 17.75 (17.25) 18.25 (19), 20 (21) 23 (24)

Armhole depth (cm): 18.5 (19.5) 19.5 (20), 21.5 (21.5) 22 (23), 24.5 (26) 28 (29.5)
Armhole depth (in): 7.25 (7.75) 7.75 (8), 8.5 (8.5) 8.75 (9), 9.75 (10.25) 10.75 (11.5)

Recommended sleeve length (cm): 46.5 (46) 46 (45.5), 45.5 (45) 45 (44.5), 44 (43.5) 43 (42.5)
Recommended sleeve length (in): 19.25 (18) 18 (18), 18 (17.75) 17.75 (17.5), 17.25 (17.25) 17 (16.75)

Body length from cast-on edge to hem at centre back (cm): 56 (57) 57 (58), 58 (58) 59 (59), 60 (61) 62 (63)
Body length from cast-on edge to hem at centre back (in): 22 (22.5) 22.5 (22.75), 22.75 (22.75) 23.25 (23.25), 23.75 (24) 24.5 (24.75)

My sample garments are Size C, worn with about 16.5 cm / 6.5 in positive ease.

Yarn: For Sample 1, I used Erika Knight Pure Tweed (100% wool; 50 g = 160 m / 175 yds) in the shade Scottish Borders Multicolour (4501) held with Isager Silk Mohair (75% super kid mohair, 25% silk; 25 g = 212 m / 232 yds) in the shade 0.

For Sample 2 (see above photos), I used Isager Alpaca 3 (50% alpaca, 50% wool; 50 g = 125 m / 136.5 yds in the shade Sky and Knitting for Olive Soft Silk Mohair (70% mohair, 30% silk; 25 g = 225 m / 246 yds in the shade Plum Clay.

I actually much prefer the latter yarn combination for the Juno Sweater Chunky, and would recommend choosing this or a similar yarn where possible. Based on test knitters’ feedback, this design works best with high-drape yarns so, lovely as it is, I don’t necessarily recommend Erika Knight Pure Tweed here.

If you do want to use the same yarns as me, this works out to be 6-7 (7) 7 (7), 8 (8) 8 (9), 9 (9) 10 (10-11) balls of Isager Alpaca 3, and 4 (4) 4 (4), 4 (4-5) 5 (5), 5 (5) 6 (6) balls of Knitting for Olive Soft Silk Mohair.

If you want to use different yarns, I estimate that you will need approximately 710 (770) 800 (840), 880 (900) 940 (1070), 1020 (1090) 1170 (1250) m / 990 (1040) 1080 (1110), 1150 (1190) 1240 (1280), 1320 (1410) 1500 (1560) yds of both a heavy worsted- and lace-weight yarn, or a chunky yarn if you prefer to work with a single strand.

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A quick note on shaping

The yoke of the Juno Sweater is shaped with rapid increases worked on the RS and WS rows when working flat, or every round when working in the round. This can create a slightly distorted fabric and cause bunching around the back neck pre-blocking. As such, this design benefits from relatively aggressive pin blocking to get a neat result at the back neck. I therefore recommend wet blocking your work once you have finished, and to pin the neckline into place whilst your work dries.

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Please note that all figures here have been rounded up to the nearest 10 m to aid legibility, then converted to yards and then rounded up to the nearest 10 yds. I have tried to be generous with my estimates but if you adjust the lengths significantly this will impact the amount of yarn you need.

Techniques include working leaning increases and decreases, working flat and in the round, picking up and knitting stitches along horizontal and vertical edges, German short rows, and working a tubular cast-off. This isn’t a particularly challenging pattern, but I wouldn’t say it’s beginner-friendly either.