Kilter Shawl by Miriam L. Felton

Kilter Shawl

by Miriam L. Felton
Knitting
July 2019
Fingering (14 wpi) ?
18 stitches and 32 rows = 4 inches
in stockinette after blocking
US 6 - 4.0 mm
500 - 550 yards (457 - 503 m)
15 inches (38cm) wide, 59 inches (150 cm) long.
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Building diagonally from corner to corner, this geometric wrap creates diamonds when knit, but squares when it’s blocked. The visual illusion made by the lines outside the squares means they’re not precisely true… hence the name.

Yarn: 550 yards total of Fingering Weight yarn. Shown in Anzula Luxury Fibers Serenity (100% Cashmere), +/-185 yds per 50g) in ‘Vixen’.
Gauge: 18 sts & 32 rows = 4 inches (10cm) in stockinette after aggressive blocking.
Needle: 4mm (US6) needles for flat knitting or size needed to obtain gauge.
Finished Size: 15 inches (38cm) wide, 59 inches (150 cm) long.
Notions: tapestry needle for weaving in ends, 2 on-needle type stitch markers, 1 pin-style marker (see notes), scale (optional), and blocking wires and pins.
Techniques Used: knit, purl, slipped stitches with yarn in front, k2tog, k3tog, yarnover, ssk, sssk, k5tog, knit front & back, sl1 k2tog psso, use of markers.

This shawl is constructed from corner to corner, knitted on the bias. Charts 1,2, and halfway through 3 increase the first point. Chart 4 repeats create the body of the shawl. Charts 5 & 6 decrease the final point.

In order to get the most out of your yarn, you should reserve 20 grams (or 75 yards) of the yarn for the final point. This number has a bit of padding, but your yardage may vary. If you are substituting yarn, you should measure by yardage, not weight.

To measure the required reserved yardage, I recommend measuring or weighing your yarn from the opposite end of the final ball you intend to use (i.e., I would use the inside of a center-pull ball since I like to pull my working yarn from the outside of the ball). Once you’ve measured, mark that point with a slip knot, and then slide a pin-style stitch marker through the slip knot to keep it from coming undone. Begin knitting with this final ball, and once you reach the slipknot, it’s time to begin the final decreases.