Knitted for Best Jacket by Linda Ivell

Knitted for Best Jacket

Knitting
November 2022
Cygnet Naturally Soft Superwash
DK (11 wpi) ?
22 stitches = 4 inches
US 5 - 3.75 mm
US 4 - 3.5 mm
34” (36”)
English

Clothes rationing and coupons in Britain finally ended in March of 1949, nearly four long years after the end of the war, with wool supplies in those last years becoming even more scarce. By the end of 1949, and the publication of this December issue of Stitchcraft magazine, it really would have felt like Christmas had finally arrived for knitters!

Although the pattern doesn’t mention Tyrolean in the description, this cardigan (called a jumper at the time) has all the hallmarks of the style: the cream wool background, the bobble ‘grid’ with coloured embroidered flowers are all there, and in addition there is beautifully shaped high ribbing and an attractive ruffle-effect collar. This is a truly Tyrolean cardigan by any other name.

With a softer shoulder line, longer length and defined waistline, the styling seems much more in tune with the 1950s and the fashions to come, turning away from the 1940s as that decade came to a close. The distinctive high, graduated ribbing gives a soft corset effect, reminiscent of the dirndl bodices, and heralds this style of high ribbing which became so popular in the Tyrolean knitwear of the 1970s and early 1980s, and is still favoured today as a key feature of the style.

The recommended yarn in the pattern is Patons Moorland Knitting, which was slightly thicker than our modern double knitting, though knitted on 4 mm/8 needles to give a tension of 20 sts. to 10 cm/4”. When knitted with modern DK on 4 mm needles, as for the recreated model, the size achieved is a close fitting 34”. (Sizing and adjustments are given in the instructions.)

This pattern is enjoyable to knit, growing quickly and easily with the bobbles being easy to create. For authenticity, the recreated model has kept to the original placements of the embroidered flower details. These are not complicated, and are relatively bold, and could be added to more of the grid spaces in the finished cardigan, if desired.

Materials

  • 10 (11) × 50 g balls Cygnet Naturally Soft Superwash 100% Wool DK in Cream (2195)
  • Small quantities of coloured wool for embroidery in Red, Blue, Pink, Yellow and Green (or any colours preferred). This works better if a finer wool is used than DK, such as a 4 ply
  • 1 × pair 3.75 mm/9 needles
  • 1 × pair 4 mm/8 needles (4.5 mm/7)
  • 9 × buttons (as this is a fitted design which relies on the stretch of the deep ribbing at the waist, 9 is the minimum number of buttons needed to give effective closing without any gaping)