Olivier Vest by Emily Y Chen

Olivier Vest

Knitting
July 2023
Sport (12 wpi) ?
24 stitches and 30 rows = 4 inches
in stockinette
US 5 - 3.75 mm
US 2½ - 3.0 mm
440 - 1450 yards (402 - 1326 m)
1-10
English
This pattern is available for $10.00 USD buy it now

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ABOUT

The Olivier Vest is a waistcoat inspired vest featuring princess panels and piping details. The vest has two length options, cropped or full, and can be worked with or without waist shaping. It consists of eight panels that are worked flat, where some are worked top down and the others are worked side to side. All panels are seamed together using a mattress stitch and the edges are finished using I-cord. There are also two options for the belt at the back of the vest. The first option is a double knitted strap worked on both sides of the back middle panel, where one strap has an adjustable slide buckle sewn onto the end. For the second option, two I-cord belt loop straps are worked and sewn along the sides of the back middle panel. A ribbon or similar material can then be thread through the loops and tied at the back of the vest.

This pattern is comprised of 12 files (you will only need 2 of these 12 files). The main file, Olivier Vest Pattern, contains instructions for the back panels and assembling the vest. Ten of the remaining twelve files are the instructions for the front panels split up by size, meaning each size has its own document. Lastly, the final file is a guide for customizing the length of the vest (this is only recommended for advanced knitters or knitters confident in modifying patterns).

The beige sample is a size 2 cropped length with waist shaping. The variegated sample is a size 2 full length without waist shaping. Note: following testing, 1-2.5 in /2.5-6.25 cm of length has been added to the vest.

SIZING

The Olivier Vest is designed to be worn with 1-3 in 2.5-7.5 cm of positive ease. If you are between sizes, I recommend sizing up as the waist can be adjusted. For more information on the fit of the garment, please view the garment schematic.

Sizes: 1 (2, 3, 4) (5, 6, 7) (8, 9, 10)

Bust: 28-30 (32-34, 36-38, 40-42) (44-46, 48-50, 52-54) (56-58, 60-62, 64-66) in / 71-76 (81-86, 91-96, 102-107) (112-117, 122-127, 132-137) (142-147, 152-157, 162-167) cm

Garment width: 31 (35, 39, 43) (47, 51, 55) (59, 63, 67) in / 79 (89, 99, 109) (119, 130, 140) (150, 160, 170) cm

Note: Sizes 7, 9, and 10 were only partially tested. If you are interested in knitting these sizes, I’m happy to offer the pattern for free in exchange for feedback. Please email emily@emknits.co for more information.

YARN

Cropped length: 440 (500, 560, 630) (690, 760, 830) (910, 1010, 1100) yards 400 (455, 520, 575) (630, 695, 760) (830, 925, 1005) meters of sport or DK weight yarn

Full length: 600 (680, 760, 850) (930, 1020, 1100) (1210, 1335, 1450) yards 550 (620, 695, 775) (850, 935, 1005) (1105, 1220, 1325) meters of sport or DK weight yarn

The estimated yardage listed here is for the without shaping version of the vest, meaning if you choose the waist shaping option, you will need less yarn than what is listed.

If you’d like to make the piping and I-cord edging a different color, you’ll need approximately 100-220 yards 73-183 meters of the alternate color depending on your size.

NEEDLES

US size 5 /3.75 mm circular needles 24, 32 or 40 in / 60, 80 or 100 cm

US size 2.5 / 3 mm double pointed needles (this is for the i-cord edge)

GAUGE

24 st x 30 rows on 4x4 in / 10x10cm using US size 5 / 3.75 mm needles in stockinette, blocked

MATERIALS

  • Sewing needle
  • Tapestry needle
  • Thread for sewing buttons
  • 3-4 3/4 in 2 cm buttons (the cropped length uses 3 buttons, the full length uses 4)
  • 1 in 2.5 cm adjustable slide buckle (optional, for the belt on the back of the vest)
  • 1-1.5 yards 1-1.25 meters of ribbon (optional, for the belt loops option on the back of the vest)

TECHNIQUES

Backwards loop cast on
Cable cast on
Double knitting (optional, for adjustable belt)
German short rows
I-cord straps and I-cord edging
Increasing and decreasing
Italian bind off (optional, for adjustable belt)
Long tailed cast on
Mattress stitch

For more information, see: https://emknits.co/patterns/p/olivier-vest