Ponchoesque by Emily Walton

Ponchoesque

Knitting
September 2017
Sport (12 wpi) ?
23 stitches and 31 rows = 4 inches
in Stockinette on largest needle
US 5 - 3.75 mm
US 6 - 4.0 mm
1312 - 1968 yards (1200 - 1800 m)
1 (2, 3, 4, 5) / 48" (52", 56", 60", 64") circumference, blocked and worn with approximately 12" of positive ease. Shown in size 1.
Flag of English English
This pattern is available from expressionfiberarts.com for $5.50.

This pattern is designed for use with 4 (4, 5, 6, 6) skein(s) of our Yak Merino Sport yarn in colorway: Burgundy. Choose any color you like, though.

You’ll need 32” circular needle in US size 6 (4.0mm), 16” circular needle in US size 5 (3.75mm), one additional size 6 needle (straight, circular or DPN) for working 3-needle BO.

•Is it a sweater? Is it a poncho? You decide! It’s flattering to virtually all shapes and sizes and is just so darn comfortable.

•Sizes include: 1 (2, 3, 4, 5) / 48” (52”, 56”, 60”, 64”) circumference, blocked and worn with approximately 12” of positive ease. Shown in size 1.

Notes From the Designer:

•I love cables. I love off-center cables, which seem a little more interesting to me than centered cables. I decided to put just one shoulder cable on this piece, like a badge or sash, to break up the Stockinette background (which I also love).

•Last year, I bought a commercially-made sweater/poncho hybrid similar to this and immediately started deconstructing it in my head, wondering how it was put together and how I could make it differently. This piece is the result. It’s not as gigantically oversized--big enough to be comfy without wearing a flour sack--with split hems at the ribbing and an open neckline. This piece is the poncho I would make for myself that would replace my store-bought poncho in a heartbeat. I think of that poncho as the construction lesson that helped me to make my own with elements that I love.

•This piece is worked flat in 2 pieces. Shoulders are connected using the three-needle bo method. Sides are seamed from the bottom of the armhole to the top of the hem ribbing, leaving a split hem at the bottom. Sts are picked up and worked in the round for the collar. Sts are picked up from the sides of the armholes and worked back and forth until the length matches the bound off underarm edge, then the sleeve sts are seamed to each side of the underarm edges to complete the sleeves.

•There are no bust sizes listed for this garment, only approximate final circumferences. If you’d like this to fit with less than the intended 12” or so of positive ease, you might want to pick a circumference relatively close to your actual bust size. If you’d like more positive ease, try a circumference that is relatively further from your actual bust size.

•When working with hand-dyed yarns for a garment, I strongly recommend alternating skeins. You don’t have to, but it helps reduce color pooling and any noticeable line where you added a new skein. Sample shown did not alternate skeins when working the ribbing or both sides of the front neck, but did alternate skeins throughout the rest of the body.

Errata: Line 1 of the cable panel should be worked as P3, LPC, (P2, RPC, LPC) twice, P2, RPC, P3.

When working the back neck, K34, (40, 40, 41, 47) sts, BO 44, (44, 48, 50, 50) center sts, k34, (40, 40, 41, 47) 44 (44, 48, 50, 50) sts for the last row. Front neck instructions are correct.

When working row 1 of the front rib band, work the sts between the markers as p3, k2, (p4, k4) twice, p4, k2, p3.