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Refracta Sweater
Use code RAV_REFRACTA to get a 15% discount. Code is valid until 25th May 23:59 BST.
This top-down round yoke design is my first deep dive into mosaic knitting, and I had a lot of fun with it! The mosaic motif extends well past the sleeve separation, giving you plenty of chances to enjoy the technique. The geometric shapes in the pattern don’t hold any particular meaning—they’re just the result of me experimenting with this fascinating method and seeing how the fabric behaves. The name of the design came from its look—it reminds me of light bending through a prism and refracting into vibrant, dynamic patterns.
To create a better fit, the back neck is raised using short rows. This part is worked in the round to keep both sides of the centre back symmetrical. Once that’s done, the knitting switches to working flat to avoid the jog you’d usually get at the start of a round.
The pattern includes instructions for long sleeves, but since it’s worked top-down, you can customise the sleeve as well as the body length however you like. The sample shown has short sleeves to show off its versatility.
This project is super engaging, with new elements introduced throughout the chart, keeping things fresh and fun. It’s a great design for anyone who wants to dive into mosaic knitting in a creative and exciting way!
French, German, Spanish and Portuguese translation provided by knitlingo.com
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Difficulty: Intermediate
Sizes: 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9)
Finished chest circumference:
- 97 (107, 117, 127, 137, 147, 157, 167, 177) cm
- 38¾ (42¾, 46¾, 50¾, 54¾, 58¾, 62¾, 66¾, 70¾)” Designed to be worn with 20-25 cm / 8-10” positive ease around the chest.
Yarn: Fingering weight, depending on the length of the sweater, allow approximately (includes a reserve for swatching):
Main colour (MC) - long sleeve option:
- 1310 (1430, 1520, 1680, 1835, 1880, 2075, 2180, 2305) m
- 1435 (1565, 1660, 1840, 2010, 2060, 2270, 2385, 2520) yds
Main colour (MC) - short sleeve option (as per the sample, ending with the mosaic pattern):
- 845 (935, 1020, 1110, 1190, 1290, 1390, 1500, 1595) m
- 925 (1025, 1115, 1215, 1300, 1410, 1520, 1640, 1745) yds
Contrast colour (CC):
- 355 (385, 430, 455, 485, 555, 580, 650, 680) m
- 385 (425, 470, 500, 530, 605, 635, 710, 745) yds
Yarns used in sample (size 2 with sleeves to end of mosaic pattern) is Bilum Snek (100% Merino; 365 m 400 yds / 100 g), 1 skein of gradient (24 Elena) as contrast colour and 3 skeins of Beige as main colour.
Gauge: 28 sts & 30 garter ridges (1 ridge is two rows) = 10 cm / 4” in Garter mosaic stitch worked flat, blocked.
You can use Chart rows 50-86 for swatching. One Chart row represents one garter ridge.
Suggested needles: 2.75 mm (US 2) circulars 60-100 cm / 24-40” long and/or DPNs for small circumference knitting
Notions: Stitch markers, locking stitch markers or bobby pins, row counter, stitch holder, tapestry needle, tape measure.
Techniques used: Knitting in the round, short rows, knit and purl increases, mosaic knitting.
Notes: The sweater is worked from the top down, starting in the round with some increases and short rows to raise the back. After that, we introduce the chart and work the sweater flat until the sleeves are separated. At this point, the sleeve stitches are put on hold, and we cast on extra stitches for the underarms. The body is worked flat with fake seams running down the sides, creating a clean break in the fabric where the partial chart repeats of the front and back meet.
For the sleeves, the held stitches are joined with stitches picked up along the underarm and worked flat with decreases.
Finally, stitches are picked up along the neckline cast-on, and we work 1x1 twisted rib in the round to the desired neckband height. To finish, the body and sleeves are seamed carefully, aligning the garter ridges for a smooth, jogless join.
Just a heads-up, there will be a slight jog at the top of the back in the short row area. To get a jogless look, you’d need to work this section flat, but that would mean losing the stripe effect with short rows that I designed for this piece.
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- First published: May 2025
- Page created: May 13, 2025
- Last updated: Yesterday …
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