SALT hoodie by Inês Oliveira

SALT hoodie

Knitting
February 2023
Worsted (9 wpi) ?
18 stitches and 24 rows = 4 inches
in Stockinette Stitch
US 4 - 3.5 mm
US 2½ - 3.0 mm
US 7 - 4.5 mm
US 6 - 4.0 mm
1444 - 2647 yards (1320 - 2420 m)
75-155 cm (30-62") actual bust circumference
English German Portuguese
This pattern is available for €8.45 EUR buy it now

Is there a sweatshirt, or a hoodie, that you love stealing from your partner, your sibling, or your friend? Are you maybe even wearing it right now?

The SALT hoodie is the ultimate stolen hoodie. Knit it for yourself, for your loved ones, or both! This design is gender-neutral and offers an inclusive size range with instructions for people of different frames and heights.

This garment is worked top-down in one piece, and it is knit flat in stockinette stitch. The sleeves are knit in the round, and the hood is knit bottom-up. Minimalist in its appearance, its details make all the difference: seamless saddle shoulders, basting stitches for extra structure, an oversized hood, sleek afterthought pockets, and a barely-there edge which conceals the zipper.

The chosen yarn makes for the perfect all-seasons fabric with a beautiful salt speckled look and that unmistakable sweatshirt feel. After blocking, the yarn blooms and softens, and the fabric offers good resistance to stretching, which is crucial for this design.

FIT

The SALT hoodie has a relaxed fit. It was designed to be worn with about 10-15 cm (4-6”) ease at the bust. People with broad to average shoulders will have a true-to-size fit at the shoulders, while people with narrow shoulders will have a slight drop-down shoulder. The armholes and sleeves are extra roomy, perfect for layering. If you prefer your hoodie to have a slim fit instead, you can knit the hoodie with 0-5 cm ease (0-2”).

REGULAR FIT: Martin is 194 cm (6’4”), his bust circumference is 95 cm (37½”), his shoulder width is 41 cm (16¼”). He is wearing size 4T with 12 cm ease around the bust. The shoulder fit is perfect.

SLIM FIT: Tomás is 180 cm (5’11”), his bust circumference is 105 cm (41¼), his shoulder width is 47 cm (18¾”). He is wearing size 4T with 2 cm ease around the bust. The hoodie is a little too tight around the shoulders, size 7MT (regular fit) would fit better.

AVAILABLE SIZES

1 (2, 3, 4) 5 (6, 7, 8) 9 (10, 11, 12) 13 (14, 15, 16)
with length tailoring:
P (petite), MP (medium-petite), MT (medium-tall) and T (tall)

These sizes were designed to fit people with about 75-155 cm (30-62”) bust circumference and heights between 150-200 cm (4’11”-6’7”) with the suggested 10-15 cm (4-6”) ease (regular fit).

Depending on the chosen fit and on shoulder width, the size range might also work for people with 70-75 (28-30”) and 155-165 (62-65”) bust circumference.

HOODIE MEASUREMENTS

for sizes:
1 (2, 3, 4) 5 (6, 7, 8) 9 (10, 11, 12) 13 (14, 15, 16)

shoulder width (cm / inch):
38 (39, 40, 41) 42 (43, 44, 46) 47 (48, 49, 50) 51 (52, 53, 54)
15¼ (15½, 16, 16½) 16¾ (17¼, 17½, 18½) 18¾ (19¼, 19½, 20) 20½ (20¾, 21¼, 21½)

bust circumference (cm / inch):
91 (96, 102, 107) 111 (116, 122, 127) 131 (136, 142, 147) 151 (156, 162, 167)
36½ (38½, 40¾, 42¾) 44¼ (46½, 48¾, 50¾) 52½ (54½, 56¾, 58¾) 60½ (62½, 64¾, 66¾)

Choose a size based on your preferred amount of ease around the bust. If your shoulders are more than 3 cm (1¼”) wider/narrower than indicated, you may wish to size/down up, up to 2 sizes. Make sure that you’ll still have positive ease, or no ease, around the bust.
The pattern includes a comprehensive guide on how to choose a size.

length tailoring:
(T) Heights 188-200 cm (6’2”-6’7”)
(MT) Heights 175-187 cm (5’9”-6’2”)
(MP) Heights 163-174 cm (5’4”-5’9”)
(P) Heights 150-162 cm (4’11”-5’4”)
These are only indicative and will help you better estimate yardage.

KNITTING LEVEL

Intermediate. The pattern includes very detailed step-by-step instructions. It explains the used techniques in depth and includes links to several videos, including my own video tutorials.

techniques used in the pattern:
stockinette stitch, half-twisted rib, double stockinette stitch, slipping stitches, increases on the right and wrong side, decreases on the right and wrong side, long tail cast-on, backwards loop cast-on, knitted cast-on, pick up and knit, German short rows, working with multiple needles, basting stitches, Italian bind-off, grafting, seaming a zipper to the edge.

GAUGE

Main fabric
18 stitches x 24 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4”)
in stockinette stitch
Cuff/Hem
22 stitches x 28 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4”)
in half-twisted rib, unstretched
Cuff/Hem
18 stitches x 28 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4”)
in half-twisted rib, stretched
Edge
24 visible rows = 24 rows main fabric

YARN AND HABERDASHERY

Mungo by Retrosaria Rosa Pomar (50% recycled wool, 50% recycled cotton) 220 m (240 yds) / 100 g
(T) 7 (7, 8, 8) 8 (8, 9, 9) 9 (10, 10, 10) 10 (10, 11, 11) balls
(MT) 7 (7, 7, 7) 8 (8, 8, 8) 9 (9, 9, 9) 10 (10, 10, 10) balls
(MP) 6 (6, 7, 7) 7 (7, 8, 8) 8 (8, 8, 9) 9 (9, 9, 9) balls
(P) 6 (6, 6, 6) 6 (7, 7, 7) 7 (7, 8, 8) 8 (8, 8, 9) balls

55-75 cm (22-30”) separating medium weight zipper (YKK-4296577)
about 130 cm (52”) of 5 mm (0.2”) string or cord for the hood

Mungo is a very unique yarn: it’s rustic, it blooms and grows a lot after blocking, it’s very tweedy and it’s rather rough before being washed. Due to the irregular nature of the thread, the necessary needles might vary wildly.

For a warmer version, you can hold together Mondim by Retrosaria Rosa Pomar with Isager Silk Mohair or Isager Alpaca 1 instead. In this case, you might need to go up in all needle sizes to meet gauge.

I recommend choosing a yarn with memory that blooms well with washing: blends with NSW merino/sheep wool, in particular rustic yarns, are best suited for this garment.

NEEDLES AND NOTIONS
Main fabric
3.5 mm (US 4) 60-150 cm (24-60”) circular needles + long DPN set
Cuff/Hem
3 mm (US 2.5) 60-150 cm (24-60”) circular needles + DPN set
Edge
3 mm (US 2.5) 60-150 cm (24-60”) circular needles + 1 DPN

Or the necessary needle sizes to attain the suggested gauge for each different stitch pattern.

4+ stitch markers, 10+ removable stitch markers, 2 safety pins, stitch stoppers, 2+ stitch holders for the sleeves and edges, scrap yarn of a contrasting color, 1 tapestry needle, 1 measuring tape, sewing needle, sewing thread of a contrasting color and of a color matching your zipper.

This pattern (english version) has been professionally tech edited by Urban Yarning.