The Original Cardigan by Sophie Ochera

The Original Cardigan

Knitting
March 2024
Fingering (14 wpi) ?
30 stitches and 28 rows = 4 inches
in Colourwork
US 3 - 3.25 mm
547 - 875 yards (500 - 800 m)
1Y, 2-3Y, 4-5Y, 6-8Y, 9-10Y
English
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A classic Fair Isle motif in red and white on the body and sleeves is paired with lots of smaller peerie motifs in multi-colours at the yoke; ideal for using up all of your leftover scraps! I’ve called this “The Original Cardigan” because it is the first design I created for my hand-made knitwear company and remains a firm favourite, ten years on. This pattern has been adapted for handknitters from the hybrid machine knitting pattern.

Construction

A seamless, top-down cardigan, the neck ribbing is knit flat, with a few short rows at the back. Then, joining your work in the round, gradual increases are made as you knit the colourful yoke, with a steek incorporated down the middle for the front opening. Once the yoke has been knitted, the sleeves and body are separated and continue to be knit in the round to the bottom. The steek is then secured and cut and button bands knitted along the edges, with buttonholes.

Gauge (in Fair Isle colour work)

30 stitches x 28 rounds = 10 x 10 cm on 3 mm needles.

The neck ribbing stretches out to almost 20 stitches in 10 cm, all other ribbings will gather in slightly and be tighter than the main fabric

Yarn

Any fingering-weight or super fine yarn that knits to 30 stitches in 10 cm on 2.75-3 mm needles. Fair Isle colour work is best when knit using a non-superwash pure wool that will bloom and blend with the other colours around it when washed. For the red and white base, I use 4 strands held together of Z. Hinchcliffe & Sons Merino, (2/30) Rosso/Ranica (MC) and 2 strands held together of Lambswool (2/17; 2 ply) Ecru (CC). Available at Uppingham Yarns (wools.co.uk).
Other suitable yarns:
Jamieson’s and Sons Spindrift; J & S Jumperweight; Bouclelaine Oeussant; BC Garn Bio Shetland; Rauma Finull; Isager Tvinni;

Note on yoke yarns: this design was created originally in order to use up leftovers which means every cardigan made is slightly different. You can follow the colours seen in this pattern or use your own scraps for a unique look of your own. You’ll need oddments of any similar-weight yarn in 15 colours. Variation in yarn types adds to the patchwork-y feel of the cardigan. Use highlights of very bright colours sparingly for more impact.

Materials

For the main fabric:

  • 1 x size 3 mm circular needle, 20, 40 & 60 cm long (for ease of working first yoke and then body stitches.)

For the trimmings:

  • 1 x size 2.5 mm circular needle 60 cm long. 1 x pair of size 2.5 mm straight needles.

  • 1 x set of size 2.5mm dpns.

As well as:

  • 2 x stitch holders.

  • Tapestry needle for sewing in ends and buttons. 15 mm buttons.

  • 50-100 cm length of 1 cm-wide ribbon to cover your steek.