Zulte by Julia Wilkens

Zulte

Knitting
July 2026
both are used in this pattern
yarn held together
Lace
+ DK
+ Lace
= ?
16 stitches and 25 rows = 4 inches
in Stockinette Stitch
US 8 - 5.0 mm
US 6 - 4.0 mm
US 4 - 3.5 mm
1 (2, 3, 4, 5) (6, 7, 8, 9)
English Finnish

This vest features the classic wide, slightly smocked fit of a bomber jacket, along with its characteristic collar. Julia incorporated the banded collar she previously used in her cardigan Preppy for Laine 18 — a fun and surprisingly simple way to create a neat, snug neckline that gives the vest a sporty, modern look. Zulte is the Dutch name of the sea aster, a flower that quietly carpets the coast. When its bloom fades, the plant releases its seeds in soft, feathery down that drifts gently through the dunes.

SIZES
1 (2, 3, 4, 5) (6, 7, 8, 9)

Recommended ease: 9” / 23 cm of positive ease. 

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest Circumference (worn closed): 38 (42, 46, 50, 54) (58, 62, 66, 71)“ / 96.5 (106.5, 117, 127, 137) (147.5, 157.5, 167.5, 180.5) cm.

Cross Back: 17.5 (17.5, 20, 20, 21.5) (21.5, 23, 24.5, 24.5)“ / 44.5 (44.5, 51, 51, 54.5) (54.5, 58.5, 62, 62) cm.

Waist Circumference: 28.5 (31.5, 34.75, 38, 41.25) (44.5, 47.5, 50.75, 54.75)“ / 72.5 (80, 88.5, 96.5, 105) (113, 120.5, 129, 139) cm.

Zipped Front Length (excl. Collar): 18 (18, 18, 20, 20) (20, 22, 22, 22)“ / 45.5 (45.5, 45.5, 51, 51) (51, 56, 56, 56) cm.

MATERIALS
Yarn:
Yarn 1: 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) (3, 4, 4, 4) skeins of Jensen by Isager Yarn (100% wool, 274 yds / 250 m – 100 g), in the colourway 7s.

Yarn 2: 3 (3, 3, 3, 4) (4, 5, 5, 5) balls of Silk Mohair by Isager (75% super kid mohair, 25% silk, 232 yds / 212 m – 25 g), each in both of the colourways 4 and 34.

Yarn 1 and both colours of Yarn 2 are held together throughout the pattern. 

Or approx. 475 (525, 575, 680, 730) (785, 915, 975, 1050) yds / 435 (480, 525, 625, 670) (720, 840, 895, 960) m of worsted-weight yarn (Yarn 1) and 495 (545, 595, 695, 760) (815, 955, 1015, 1090) yds / 455 (500, 545, 635, 695) (745, 875, 930, 1000) m each in 2 colours of lace-weight silk-mohair (Yarn 2).

Alternative yarn suggestions are for example Tandem by West Wool, Cascade 220 by Cascade Yarns or La Rinconada by Wooldreamers (Yarn 1) and Glowhair by West Wool, Soft Silk Mohair by Knitting for Olive or Pearl Mohair by Majo Garn (Yarn 2).

Needles: US 8 / 5 mm 40” / 100 cm circular needles for body, US 4 / 3.5 mm 32” / 80 cm circular needles for collar and armholes and US 6 / 4 mm 40” / 100 cm circular needles for hem.

Notions: 4 stitch markers, sewing thread matching the zipper colour, pins, stitch holder or waste yarn.

Zipper: 1 x YKK Vislon separating zipper with moulded plastic teeth (or antique brass), 6 mm wide, 18 (18, 18, 20, 20) (20, 22, 22, 22)“ / 45 (45, 45, 50, 50) (50, 55, 55, 55) cm long, colour 916 (dark brown).
Note: Choosing a zipper length different to the one listed for your size will affect yarn requirements. 

GAUGE
16 sts x 24 rows to 4” / 10 cm on US 8 / 5 mm needles in St St for body, after blocking.

18 sts x 32 rows to 4” / 10 cm on on US 4 / 3.5 mm needles in St St for collar, after blocking.

20 sts x 44 rows to 4” / 10 cm on on US 6 / 4 mm needles in Double-Knitting for hem, after blocking.

NOTES
Zulte begins with the stitches for the back of the neck, with increases worked each row to shape the shoulders. Stitches for the fronts are then picked up at the shoulder seam, and fronts and back are worked to the same length. Purl columns at each side create faux seams when joined. A double-knitted hem draws in the circumference and adds a soft, bouncy finish. The collar is shaped with German Short Rows and folded double. The vest is worked with a worsted-weight yarn held together with 2 strands of laceweight silk-mohair.