March 10, 2022.

A very long time ago I had purchased the book Classic Elite Quick Knits just because I wanted to make these mittens. I ended up purchasing the pattern separately through BT because the pattern in the book has too many mistakes/omissions.

I read through the project notes of many knitters who have knit this pattern. After much consideration I decided to use aran weight yarn and knit the cuff and body of the mittens with US #7 circular needles. I knit the garter stitch sections on US #4 as the twisted stitch section draws the fabric in while the garter st tends to flare. I still have considerable flare which I am hoping will improve after washing and blocking (it did ).

LTCO 42 sts on US #6 needles. I used this video by Assia Brill to get a smooth join in the round. Although a bit more fiddly than the usual joins, I think it is the best method I have seen so far. It makes for a completely seamless join in the round and is perfect for hats, socks and mittens.

Transferred to US #4 needles to do the garter border. Transferred to US #7 for the twisted stitch cuff. Used US #7 needles for the rest of the mittens except the 2nd garter section at the end of the cuff (used US #4).

Left Twist: wyib slip the k st, purl 1, with left needle slip the ktbl st, switch positions with the purl st, and ktbl.

Right Twist:

I am using magic loop. The break between the two needles is my natural marker at the beginning of the round.

The pattern in the Classic Elite book had the decreases totally messed up. I am noting the corrections below so that unlike me you don’t have to spend an additional $8 to buy the pattern from BT just to get the corrections.

Left leaning twisted decrease: K2tog-tbl: knit 2 tog tbl. This is the first decrease of the row.

Right leaning twisted decrease: Twisted K2tog: sl1 p-wise, slip 2nd st p-wise through tbl, thereby twisting the st, return both sts to the left needle without twisting and k2tog. This is the 2nd decrease of the row.

Twisted left leaning double decrease S1K2P: slip 1 k-wise, k2tog, psso. This is the double decrease worked on the last row of the pattern repeat.

S1K2P: this is the double decrease worked at the center of the pattern. Slip 1 k-wise, k2tog, psso.

Raised central double decrease: these are worked when shaping the mitten top and the thumb top: slip 2 sts as if to k2tog, k1, pass the two slipped sts over.

Thumb:
The pattern does not provide directions on how to pick up the thumb stitches. To pick up the thumb sts without making a hole and maintaining the rib pattern this is what I did:
Using US #6 needles, I picked up 9 + 2 + 11 + 2 = 24 sts. Continuing with US #6 needles, I reduced the extra 4 sts over the next 2 rounds. Changed to US #7 and finished the thumb. I need to get used to thumb pickups!

Top of the Mitten:
I followed oboegoddess’ notes to get a rounded top. After row 50, there are 20 sts remaining on the needle.

Round 51: (left twisted decrease, twice), k1-tbl, (right twisted decrease, twice), k1-tbl, (left twisted decrease, twice), k1-tbl, (right twisted decrease, twice), k1-tbl. 12 sts remain. Draw thread through to clinch it close.

Comments: The mittens are beautiful. I have smallish hands (6.5” palm length). The mittens were so snug before blocking that I wondered if it would even fit me. After blocking they are a tad too loose! Twisted sts relax a lot after blocking. I made the mistake of blocking too hard. Next time I will remember not to do that. The cuff pattern of continuously left leaning or right leaning twists draws in the cuff a lot. However, it becomes all relaxed and good after blocking.

Many knitters added an extra repeat (after Row 43, go back to Row 38 and work rows 38-50) to make the mittens taller. I did not need to do that for my hands. The mittens are about 0.5” too tall for my 6.5” tall palm. I wish the pattern gave more sizing options.

Measurements after blocking:
Length (base of the cuff to the top): 10.5”
Cuff circumference: 7.50”
Base of the thumb pick up to mitten top: 5”