I LOVE THESE SLIPPERS! I am going to make these again. The photographs aren’t good at all; the actual slippers are much better looking.

October 7, 2017: Using 3.25mm circulars instead of the suggested 3 mm. My yarn is slightly thicker than standard worsted and I like the fabric better with the bigger needles.

The pattern is quick and easy and yields a beautiful project, although it (at least the English version) could have been written better. With a little patience, however, one can get through to the end.

Notes to me if I make this again (and I surely will):

I used one circular needle instead of 4 dpns. This was my first time doing Judy’s Magic Cast On. I used two videos; the first by Very Pink Knits and the second by Knit Purl Hunter.

M1R = pick up the horizontal bar between two sts from back to front and knit into front of loop.
M1L = pick up the horizontal bar between two sts from front to back and knit into back of loop.

The pattern unfortunately calls the first set of cable charts, M.1. It has nothing to do with the M1L or M1R increases; it’s just a name for the chart as are M.2 and M.3.

Knit chart M.1 three times.

When you go from chart M.1 to M.2 you will see that the chart for M.2 has 7 sts instead of 6 and yet you have not increased any stitch anywhere in the meantime. What happens is that when working on the first chart (M.1) you have 12 knit sts between the two cable panels spanning the top of your foot. When you are working on M.2 (the second chart), you are purling only 10 (instead of 12) sts between the cable panels. So the two missing sts are incorporated as an extra knit stitch on each of the cable panels.

Work chart M.2 three times.
When working the M.2 chart the first time, you purl the middle 10 sts between the two cable panels on rows 1 and 3 and knit them on rows 2 and 4.

For the second M.2, you will increase one st to have 11 sts between the cable pattern. These 11 sts will be worked in a twisted rib. Work the 3rd section of M.2 as above with 11 sts worked in twisted rib. On the 4th row cast off the 11 sts of twisted rib. I used a regular bind off. The bind off should be fairly tight; otherwise the fabric will have a flare on the top of the foot.

When you reach the EOR, break yarn. Slip the next 18 sts without knitting so as to be able to start a new row (with new yarn) on the RS starting with first row of chart M.3. This section is knit back and forth. Initially you will have to continue with the magic loop method (or use dpns) but as you knit up an inch or so you will be able to transfer the sts to a straight needle and work back and forth as usual. Since I am making the EU 36/38 US 6 - 7.5 shoe size, I worked the M.3 chart (back and forth) 3 times, as the pattern says.

The next part is not written well and seems more confusing than it is. What it says is this:

Continue working back and forth and with chart M.3. You will work M.3 three times (total of 12 rows).
On every 2nd and 4th rows you will increase two sts per row.
The first increase is an M1R and is worked after working 8 sts from the beginning of the row.
The second increase is an M1L and is worked when 8 sts remain on the left hand needle (i.e., 8 sts before the end of the row).

Notice that these increases are being worked on the bottom of the foot. Since 2 sts are being increased on every 2nd and 4th row, there will be 2 more sts between the cables every time your work a purl row.

The final section is easy to understand as written. End with a Kitchener bind off. You could do a standard kitchener’s bind off with a darning needle or you can do one with straight knitting needles, as the pattern instructs you to do. I just used straight needles and worked a Knitted Kitchener’s Bind Off. This video was very helpful.

Knitted Kitchener Bind-Off
Set up 44 sts on 2 knitting needles (22 sts on each) in the usual way. Look at the last pic. I will call the needle in front, N1; and the needle in the back, N2. The yarn is coming out of the first st on N2. We will bind off using this yarn and a third needle. I think it helps to have the third needle a bit thinner than the needles holding the sts. Makes the bind off snug and handsome.

Steps 1a and 1b are worked on N1. Steps 2a and 2b are worked on N2.

Work on N1 - front needle Step 1a: p1 on first st on N1 and draw yarn through; drop st off the needle. Step 1b: k1 on next st on N1 and draw yarn through; leave st on the needle.

POKS - purl off knit stay on the front needle.

Work on N2 - back needle Step 2a: k1 on first st on N2 and draw yarn through; drop st off the needle. Step 2b: p1 on next st on N2 and draw yarn through; leave st on the needle.

KOPS - knit off purl stay on the back needle.

Repeat steps 1a - 2b until all sts are cast off.

I like this method a lot. I think it will be my preferred method of Kitchenering from now on.

Size: I used Wool Ease which is a dense worsted/Aran yarn; size 3.25mm needles; and followed pattern for size EU 36/38, US Women’s 6-7.5. The actual size of the slippers is very close to a Women’s US 7 shoe.

I absolutely ADORE these! It is an easy pattern that yields a beautiful, functional pair of slippers.