Neck cast on as size 4 - increase to size 5 but reduce back to generous size 4 (as back is narrow) after full bust. Changes noted below.
Cast on 120 stitches, beginning as size 4, but added extra short row at back, and extra increases at front third only for the final increase row of stitches, 15 wedges (lace repeats markers), stitch count to begin lace is close to size 5.
2 Dec, completed 2nd lace increase. Happy with size of neck opening, yoke just touching tip of shoulders (row 21).
Following lace chart as written yoke length should be 1.5 inches below armpit, and I can shift more stitches to the front (for H cup bust) from the back stitch count.
04-12-2023
Only knit 3 plain rows after size 5 final increase 409 stitches (as row guage is bigger), split stitch counts: for front 141 stitches, 74 stitches each for sleeves, and 120 for back. But added another 8 stitches on front and 6 stitches on back on first stockinette round after sleeve separation.
Sleeve (82 stitches) - 18 stitches cast on under the sleeve, and 8 rounds stockinette before 1st decrease, 6 rounds plain 2nd decrease round, before adding 6 rounds stockinette before the ribbing of sleeve. Decrease evenly on knit stitches 1st row ribbing to 72 stitches. Cast off in pattern with 4.5mm needle.
Additional bust shaping. I decreased gently below the bust to reduce additional ease.
Decreases started 26cm below the cast on, 19cm either side of centre point front, to create Y shaped darts below bust angling towards each side seam. Initiatially removing stitches on alternate rows for 3cm at 2 points each side, before also adding decreases every 3rd row in a line with side seams (4 decrease points, 2 side and 2 lower leg of Y dart between 3 and 9cm from start of bust shaping adjustment) . Decreased 48 stitches over 9cm.
13-12-2023
Just under half of second skein left before starting ribbed hem.
Started split ribbed hem at front, when side from underarm 25cm, adding 2 stitches at each side for small icord edge, knit 7 rows to match neck band and cast off using 2 stitch icord.
Add 6 stitches to each end of back band so front can overlap back at each side. Castoff all hems in 4mm needle.
Did the back ribbed hem 5 cm longer than the front so it just sits on curve of posterior, and 8 cm below belly button at the front, 12 cm positive ease from lower bust down to hem