NOTE: Model is wearing this backwards in the magazine.

14Apr10:
Gussets: What a long gusset trial its been. Basically, you are matching a DIAGONAL gauge to a horizontal gauge, AND you are trying to fit the gusset around corners. I think it’s virtually impossible to make instructions that will be successful for a large group of knitters. Basically, you should guess the length you need and recalculate a slope of decreases you deem appropriate.

For me, I didn’t like how bulky the gussets were under the arm, far too wide -- even for a 36inch bust like mine. So, I added a bunch of paired decreases in the centers while continuing to decrease the gusset edges. I decreased to a very thin gusset and then sewed the lace edges directly together once the gusset was finished. Please see the picture if you are interested in this type of gusset. The instructions for it are:
1) Decrease gusset edges every 8th row, twice.
2) Decrease gusset edges every 6th row until there are no stitches left, AT THE SAME TIME begin centered double decreases (ssk, k2, k2tog), decreasing every 4th row 6 times (12 st decreased).

Sleeves: I made a Small yoke with an Extra Small sleeve width. Easy- I just stopped raglan increases when the Extra Small width was reached.

I knitted until all stitches were decreased then immediately began the lace section. I repeated it three times and then ended with a lace picot bind-off (inc 2, bo 4).

Neckline: I picked up around the neckline and bound off with the lace picot bind-off used for the sleeves. Very nice. I’m tempted to do the hem this way, as it curls inwards in an annoying way. I’m going to wear it a bunch before I try it though, as it’s a lot of work and frankly, I want to move on!

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29Mar10: The raglan yoke instructions are wrong, with the right side being worse than the left. I had to chart it out to discover what the designer intended. I am assuming that the final count of stitches is the goal. Here are the whole yoke instructions, with corrections in bold. Thanks to weeone for fixing my left yoke changes.

RIGHT RAGLAN YOKE:

Cast on 27 (31, 35) sts.

Row 1 (WS): P15 (17, 19) (side back), pm, p8 (sleeve), pm, p4 (6, 8) (side front).

Row 2: K1 (3, 5), ssk, yo, k1, slip marker (sm), yo, k to 1 st before marker, yo, k1, sm, yo, k2tog, k to end -- 29 (33, 37) sts.

Row 3 and all WS rows: Purl.

Row 4: K1, M1, K0 (2, 4), ssk, yo, k1, sm, yo, k to 1 st before marker, yo, k1, sm, yo, k2tog, k to end -- 32 (36, 40) sts.

Row 6 and 8: K1, M1, k to 3 sts before marker, ssk, yo, k1, sm, yo, k to 1 st before marker, yo, k1, sm, yo, k2tog, k to end.

Row 10: K1, M1, k to 3 sts before marker, ssk, yo, k1, sm, yo, k to 1 st before marker, yo, k1, sm, yo, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Place coiless safety pin to mark this row for center back seam.

Row 12: Cast on 5 sts (at the end of row 11), k10 (12, 14), ssk, yo, k1, sm, yo, k to 1 st before marker, yo, k1, sm, yo, k2tog, k9 (11, 13), k2tog, k1.

Row 13: Purl.

Row 14: K10 (12, 14), ssk, yo, k1, sm, yo, k to 1 st before marker, yo, k1, sm, yo, k2tog, k11 (13, 15). Rep (rows 13 and 14) 18 (20, 22) times more -- 84 (92, 100) sts total -- 13 (15, 17) front sts, 58 (62, 66) sleeve sts, 13 (15, 17) back sts.

LEFT RAGLAN YOKE:

Cast on 27 (31, 35) sts.

Row 1 (WS): P4 (6, 8) (front), pm, p8 (sleeve), pm, p15 (17, 19) (back).

Row 2: K12, (14, 16), ssk, yo, k1, sm, yo, k to 1 st before marker, yo, k1, sm, yo, k2tog, k2 (4, 6).

Row 3 and all WS rows: Purl.

Row 4: K12 (14, 16), ssk, yo, k1, sm, yo, k to 1 st before marker, yo, k1, sm, yo, k2tog, k1 (3, 5), M1, k1.

Row 6 and 8: K12 (14, 16), ssk, yo, k1, sm, yo, k to 1 st before marker, yo, k1, sm, yo, k2tog, k to last st, M1, k1.

Row 10: K1, ssk, k9 (11, 13), ssk, yo, k1, sm, yo, k to 1 st before marker, yo, k1, sm, yo, k2tog, k to last st, M1, k1.

Row 12: K1, ssk, k8 (10, 12), ssk, yo, k1, sm, yo, k to 1 st before marker, yo, k1, sm, yo, k2tog, k to end, cast on 5 sts at end of row. Complete as for right front, reversing shaping as established.

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16Mar10: The first inset is going along well. Some changes:

1) The (-2) and (-1) marker movements in chart 3 are mostly ok because the slipped stitches usually fall into a SK2P. However, in Row 50, the slipped stitches looked really messy. I could see a long thread behind them because they weren’t eaten up by any decrease. Ugly. So, I still moved the marker 2 stitches, but instead of slipping the two stitches I just knit them.

2) I am at Row 68, where (lucky me) dearmanv has already guinea pig’d her way through and discovered an error. I will be starting the leaf edge pattern over the 161 sts on row 68 as stated in the pattern. However, that has to be row 2 of the leaf edge pattern.

LACE INSET CORRECTIONS

RND 68: Bind off loosely 115 sts up to first marker, (place coil-less safety pin on 35th stitch bound off to mark center neck.) Work leaf edge pattern over center 161 sts starting with row 2, bind off last 44 sts. Cut yarn.

ROW 70-78: Work rows 4-12 of leaf edge chart. Bind off loosely.

There is no Row 80.

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12Mar10: It’s always dangerous to cast-on on a pattern the day a Vogue Knitting is received (a.k.a ErrataVille). I’m not sure of the wearability of this… thing… but it sure is damn fun to knit. And every time I pick it up it makes me think of the beach. Or cooked salmon. Oscillates, really.

I needed a stitch marker during lunch and recycled my Jasmine Tea tag.

IntSweMoDo2010 #1