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This is a KAL project with the Knit Picks Lovers group. It is a version of the Basic Crew Sweater from The Sweater Workshop book, which is based on Elizabeth Zimmermann’s EPS sweater.

… as you read through my notes, you’ll see that I basically “designed” this sweater on needle, making design modifications as I got to each decision point, based entirely on the fit and how my stitches were working out at that point. But the “skeleton” of the sweater structure relies on the construction elements of the Basic Sweater, and elements of other sweaters, in the Sweater Workshop book.

My goal was to dismiss the complaint I often see that the sweaters in this book are “ugly, uninspired, & matronly.” Which, imo, completely dismisses the POINT of this book: to take the yarn you want to use, the needles that give you the fabric you desire, whatever stitch elements you want for your sweater… and to DESIGN the sweater you want using the basic construction elements of a bottom up, seamless, sweater. You can make a clone of the BASIC sweaters photographed… or you can dress up and play with elements within those instructions to make a truly special sweater.

The POINT is, you don’t have to make “someone else’s sweater.” You can make the sweater you WANT to make, with confidence, because the book gives you the tools to make sure it will fit the way you wanted it to fit and walks you through each design element along the way to create in yarn what you want to wear when it is finished, with confidence in the design elements you want to add to the “skeleton” design. It is my hope that this sweater demonstrates the genius of this book and that you aren’t really expected to recreate the sweaters in the book.

I cannot recommend working the Sampler before making any sweater in the book highly enough. The Sampler is “a knitting course” in a single project. In addition to learning “advanced knitting skills,” which is literally nothing more than variations of pulling one loop of yarn through another loop of yarn… no skill of which is “hard” other than by virtue of the fact you haven’t done it yet, (exactly the same way the “advanced knitter” had to do to learn how to do them the first time) … thoroughly prepares you to follow the detailed step-by-step directions for any sweater in the book. All in small, bite-size, easy-to-work segments that all but the most rank beginning knitter can manage. If you can cast on, work a knit and purl stitch, cast off, and have knit anything, at all, you can successfully make the Sampler. Honest. Working the Basic Sweater as your “final test” to the Sampler, using yarn you don’t really care much about and that will easily frog as necessary, will more than adequately prepare you to design any sweater you can imagine. I exaggerate not.

Compare/contrast with my first Sweater Workshop sweater. :-)

Sep 15:
Started swatching to begin the sweater while I complete my Nether Garment for that KAL.

When I start posting photos, it’ll be pretty obvious I’m not actually making the sweater named above. But it is maybe the closest in terms of core elements, so I chose that one to fill that hole setting up the Project page because this project is constructed based on The Sweater Workshop basics.

Dec 5:
Plan B. I had originally planned to use a different yarn. But I really love that yarn and couldn’t settle on a stitch pattern and other design elements that I was certain I’d love as much as I love the yarn, so I’ve decided on a different tack.

In the meantime I’ve been battling a back issue, a continually recurring sinus infection, a cold, and a particularly nasty case of flu.

Combined with the Pi shawl I started and trying to squeeze in some Holiday projects… that are not going to get done in time… I am now to the point in the Pi shawl that I can only manage 2-6 rounds on the shawl per day before I start to feel a little buggy. So, I’m starting this sweater.

Have decided on an eyelet ribbing and will borrow the eyelet stitch pattern to sprinkle through the otherwise stockinette body. Not sure what I’ll do with sleeves… maybe just solid stockinette?

At any rate, I’ve worked up my swatch and will wash/block it tonight to be sure the stitch gauge won’t change. Merino Style tends to bloom after washing, but may not be enough to alter the gauge. Hopefully I’ll be able to cast on tomorrow.

Stockinette st gauge: 6 st/in on 4.5mm needles with DK weight yarn
Hip circumference: 42” x 6 sts = 252 sts
Tunic length target circumference: appx. 44” x 6 sts = 264 sts
Stitch pattern repeat (eyelet ribbing)= multiple of 7 st
252/7 = 36 pattern repeats
259/7 = 37 pattern repeats
266/7 = 38 pattern repeats
… depending upon what happens after my swatch dries, I’ll probably cast on 266 sts for my ribbing

I’m planning on a loose-fitting hem, somewhat tunic length, so larger is better than more snug because I don’t want the hem to hug my body or the pants I’ll most likely wear with this sweater. I’m planning an “A-line” shape to a few inches below the bustline. At that point I’m considering some sort of ribbing to at least the underarm point… may carry ribbing to neckline or to the shoulders depending on fit and how the fabric works.

I’m planning loose extra-long sleeves. I may work ribbing of some sort above the elbows… not sure yet.

For the neck… no clear idea. Considering a jewel neckline, very simple.

Dec 7:
Math is my nemesis. I’ve always got to actually work things out with yarn and needles rather than rely on computations.

I cast on way too many stitches and will be ripping the couple rows I started and reducing significantly. I cast on 315 because

• I was concerned about the bottom being too snug, because…
• the bottom hem rib pattern will pull in the width and…
• I wasn’t certain I’d allowed an adequate amount of ease at the bottom, even without the eyelet ribbing

The eyelet ribbing isn’t going to pull in as much as a 2x2 rib will but 315 sts was overkill regardless. I’ve recalculated.

My stitch-per-inch (spi) is 6 but the stitch pattern for the rib is 7 sts per repeat. So, I want a multiple for both, 6 x 7 = 42 stitches.

As it turns out, 42” (my actual loose hip measurement) is a multiple of 42, the number of stitches that is a multiple of my spi and the ribbing pattern repeat. (6 x 7 = 42)

Using my loose hip measurement, 42, times my spi, 6, is 252 stitches. (42 x 6 = 252) That 252 is divisible by both 6 and 7… what are the odds?

So… I’m only going to add 21 stitches to that, three extra ribbing repeats. (252 + 21 = 273) ::sigh:: That’ll be about 3.5” extra ease, which should be sufficient.

I’ve decided to start this on a 60” cable so I can try it on easily without having to knit over onto a 60” cable, as I usually do, or move stitches to a sufficiently long length of scrap yarn or some other convention to be able to try it on frequently without losing stitches. This will require Magic Looping rather than knit-in-the-round on a shorter length cable.

Dec 8:
Several bizarre snafus later, I’m finally making progress! Had to restart three times… because of weird errors I can’t even explain, but I finally got two full rounds done without a recurrence of those… or any others… and was able to work a full eyelet rib round as well. YAY!

Eyelet Rib Stitch… multiples of 7 sts, in the round:
R1 and R2: * k5, p2; repeat from *
R3: * k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk; repeat from *
Repeat R1 - R3 for pattern
… End with one round each of R1 and R2

• “k2tog” = knit two stitches together as one stitch
• “ssk” = slip one stitch as if to knit, slip one stitch as if to purl, slip left hand needle into front of the two slipped stitches on the right hand needle and knit together as one stitch

I borrowed the stitch pattern for the ribbing from an article in the premiere issue of Knit.Wear magazine by Interweave. The article is “Ribbing Inspiration” by Debbie Newton pg 32-35.

Dec 9:
Remember how I said I was going to start this on a 60” cable because it would be “easier”? Yeah. Well, it is NOT easier to restart 273 sts a half dozen times because of the 60” cable! I somehow dropped about 8 stitches off the back needle two days ago… and realized it when I got to the point to knit the second round. Have NO idea how that happened!

Start over. I then restarted again because I managed to twist the stitches… again. There is NO acceptable “save manuever” when you’ve gotten the cast-on stitches twisting around your circular cable and knit them twisted… none.

Last night after completing the third pattern repeat and starting to get excited because that’s when you start to be able to really see the stitch pattern well… I realized I’d not only twisted the stitches in the first round… I apparently had twisted them again at the beginning of the second round, based on the lump I’ve got at the join right at the hem!!! Acckkkkkk!!!

I was so disgusted last night that I just put it away… I didn’t even frog it.

So, for future reference - mine and anyone else with long patience that does in fact have a limit - knit this many stitches in-the-round rather than Magic Loop them! Way too easy to twist your stitches when joining the round! I’ve proven it… three times in the same project.

So. I’ll start this… again… on a 32” cable and maybe I’ll actually make some progress finally. Very annoyed to have lost several day’s progress. But, it is part of the educational process of knitting. Yes? I think what I’m most disgusted about is, it is a complete rookie mistake that I’ve done Magic Loop frequently enough I shouldn’t be doing this at this point any longer! :-\

Yes… one can still get the stitches twisted on a shorter cable, but one shall be able to see the stitches got twisted much easier and have a chance to untwist them - and keep them untwisted through the first and second round of knitting - much easier when working with hundreds of stitches especially. The problem with a longer cable: it is easy for the stitches to retwist without realizing they have until you’ve knit a few rounds. Depending on the project, you might be able to live with it. On a sweater, I just can’t.

Second “I should know this by now” screw-up: the instant you think you’ve twisted stitches on the cable, do NOT just keep knitting, hoping you are wrong. You probably aren’t. And don’t try to fix the twist at the start of the second round by “untwisting” them. This is not physically possible. Stop, check it more closely, and if you still aren’t certain all is well… rip and restart before you waste one more stitch with the current set up. If stitches are twisted on the cable in the cast-on or first round of stitches, it is UNFIXABLE apart from starting over… again. I had a sense something wasn’t right, several times around, but I just kept knitting rather than listening to my experience that said, “this doesn’t look right, this doesn’t feel right, something isn’t right.” My bad. :-\

BEFORE I rip these stitches, while they are still on the 60” cable, I’ll slip the ring of stitches around my hips to make sure I’m happy with the circumference I’ve got so if I need to adjust the number of stitches, I can see that before I start again.

After about the 6th or 7th round, I could go back to working on the 60” cable with no danger of twisting the stitches on the cable again. It’s those first three round, particularly, that things can get screwed up. Beyond that, one would have to be a Houdini to somehow twist stitches on the cable. Probably doable, but profoundly unlikely. :-)

~^~^~
Math still wrong… surprise, surprise. I understand the basic function and mechanics of tape measures and calculators and math… but they lie to me all the time. ::sigh:: I know it must be me because other humanoids don’t seem to have these issues. They are a mystery to me, based on results.

273 - 49 = 224
Taking out 7 rib pattern repeats appears to be adequately large. Have no idea why since the math says that’s only 37+“ but stepping into what I knit last night is huge… I “fingered off” seven pattern repeats and checked that fit and it seemed a lot closer to fitting the way I’m aiming for. I simply do not understand.

The thing I am pleased about is, if I’d not screwed up joining the round, I’d have wasted even more time and stitches because everything I cast on and knit after ripping that out wouldn’t have been what I wanted either if I’d not decided to start… again. One of the main things I love about knitting is the redemptive nature of the art. Anything that isn’t going as you desire is almost always infinitely easy to rip and fix!

Dec 12:
YAY! Think I’ve finally got it, George! I still do not understand how the ribbing is working right since the math says it should be too small, but I tried it on last night, and it looks great! The “math” looks wrong and I’m still anxious about flying in the face of that, but what I’ve got now is definitely not too small.

I’m tentatively planning on a dozen pattern repeats of the Eyelet Ribbing and when I’ve completed that and worked a few rows of stockinette for the body, I’ll take/post new photos… LOVE the way the ribbing is coming out!

Dec 13:
YAY! Just finished the ribbing on the body! I’ve decided it is sufficiently deep at 9 pattern repeats, about 3.5 inches. I’m going to work an inch or so of stockinette and see how it looks and fits from there.

Dec 15:
I’ve done the first pattern stitch on the body… should have knit a little farther so you can see it better in the photos, but it’ll look like the stitches in the swatch sample. :-)

DH caught a glimpse of the ribbing last night and has commented on it several times. :-) Must be pretty spiffy if he notices sufficiently to practically gush over “how pretty that is!”

Dec 20:
Coming right along… plan to knit onto a longer cable later today to see where I am in terms of fit and “height”. I’m thinking I might want to put some ribbing on the sides to pull them in a little bit, but I need to try it on to see if I still want to do this, where I might want to start the ribbing and how tall to make the ribbing if I do decide to add this fitting feature.

When I have knitted onto the longer cable, I also plan to take fresh photos. I now have three sets of eyelet pattern on the body and am anxious to see how it looks. I’m spacing the eyelets on the body with an inch of stockinette between the pattern rows and staggering the placement of the eyelets from the previous set of eyelets, using the ribbing as an “anchor” for the vertical placement.

When the new photos are up, you’ll be able to see I’ve got locking stitch markers at the top of the Eyelet Ribs along the bottom that I used to determine where I would place the eyelet pattern on the body above. I’m only placing the eyelets on the front and back because I wasn’t certain if I’d do ribbing on the side or not and didn’t want to fuss with ribbing placement in case I did.

I’ve used the small coral locking stitch markers on the front side and the small turquoise stitch markers on the back side. Because I will not be working a pattern repeat every time I come to a stitch marker on-needle, I’m using the green triangle stitch markers to indicate where to begin an eyelet repeat on one working row, and the peach/pink triangle stitch markers to indicate where to begin an eyelet repeat on the next working row, an inch above. These are my visual clues to know which ones to just knit past and which I want to work the pattern repeat, depending on what I did on the previous pattern row an inch below. I’m also hanging a coil-less safety pin off the first one in the round to remind me to start the pattern repeats at that point when I’ve worked my inch of stockinette, measured from the top of the previous stitch pattern round. After I’ve worked one stitch pattern repeat, I move the coil-less safety pin to the other color triangle stitch marker at the beginning of the round.

A word about the green & peach/pink triangle on-needle stitch markers. I’ve not seen these in any store around here in the small size but found them on Amazon. (If you see them, pick up a package… I think you’ll probably like them.) I had picked up a package of the extra-small yellow/purple stitch markers locally and really loved them with fingering weight yarn, but hadn’t used the small size yet, which are proportionally “a lot” larger. The triangle shape “hugs” the needle at the point where I’m working the stitch in a way a round one doesn’t, and I can “flip the base” out of my way to work the stitch if it is in my way, in a way that doesn’t really work with a round stitch marker. I’m not a fan of the “hard” round stitch markers for this reason, and wasn’t sure I’d care for these triangle ones. At first they were a little clumsy but at this point in the project - having only worked three pattern rows plus the stockinette rows in between - I find I really like them. I was concerned I’d be able to see a “stretching” of the stitches on either side of them in the fabric, but they don’t affect the stitches at all.

They are more visible… both in the project and when one escapes… and they are already my new favorite on-needle stitch markers for the heavier sport, DK, or worsted weight yarns!

The sweater is coming along much more quickly than I would have thought, given that I’m also working on a Pi Shawl and various small projects as gifts as well. My DH can’t wait for me to finish this sweater… he is quite taken with it! :-)

Dec 22:
New photos show progress to date.

I’m using ribbing on both sides to provide shaping rather than doing increases and decreases… this will make the sweater more comfortable… and I just wanted to play with this manner of shaping at the waist. :-) I got the idea from the same magazine article that I found the Eyelet Rib stitch pattern in. I also have Debbie Newton’s book “Designing Knitwear” (out of print; request Kindle version from that page so others may learn) and the same info from the magazine article can be found on pgs 211-212. I’ve had the book for a long time and had forgotten this idea, so the magazine article reminded me I’d been introduced to it before.

I’m using two jumbo locking stitch markers to indicate where to work the ribbing stitches. An orange one on the right side, at the beginning of a new round, and a teal one on the left side to indicate the opposite side of the round.

I began with one purl stitch on each side of a single knit stitch for 1.5”, (2 purl columns), then I added one more column of rib on each side of those with an additional purl/knit column on each side, (4 purl columns, divided by a single knit column: p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1) for another 1.5 inch. I will work a total of 6 purl columns separated by a single knit column for 2” and then reverse the sequence for a total of 8” of ribbing, wider at the narrowest part of my waist, expanding above and below with less ribbing.

I’m getting anxious to finish the sweater now so I can block it and really see how well these stitch patterns work! But, I’ve got to do a little catch-up with my Pi Shawl cuz I’m needing a break on the sweater… my fingers are starting to ache cuz I’ve been working on it too much.

Dec 25:
First of all, let me say, I’m not unhappy with the fit, at all, but I’d hoped to have a little more ease than I’m going to have. It is going to be more fitted around the hips than I was aiming for. It isn’t going to be as loose… because I didn’t trust my math. If had kept the 273 sts, I probably would have had pretty much exactly the ease I wanted. :-\ I could have taken out a couple of pattern repeats and it would have been fine, but I took out too many to get the fit I had in mind when I started. (note: after blocking the finished sweater, it loosened up quite a bit and I’m very pleased with the final ffit.)

However this is only my second sweater - ever - so I can chalk this up to my sweater knitting experience in the future: “don’t be too aggressive about ‘fixing’ the math as long as it isn’t fitting too tightly.” I prefer “comfortable” which for me most often means “on the looser side.” I can probably block a little more “loose” into the ribbing, but even if I can’t it fits fine. It just isn’t what I envisioned.

I couldn’t be more pleased with the fabric though. Love Merino Style. So glad I stocked up on it before it was all gone. I hope KP replaces it with something comparable sooner rather than later, but if they don’t, I have enough in at least one other color for another sweater, and tons of the Bare I can dye as I please… I should have enough Bare for a least two more sweaters, maybe three?

Haven’t had time to work on the sweater or Pi shawl, trying to finish up last minute holiday gifts. Doing the very last of it this evening because we are opening gifts tomorrow night. So I can get back to those two projects tomorrow. I’ve really missed knitting on this sweater! Can’t wait to finish and block it!

Jan 7:
I’m 3” from where I want to stop on the body and begin my sleeves. I did two short rows on the back to lengthen the back just a bit.

I’m going to be designing the sleeves as I go. I’ll be casting on 49 stitches for the cuffs on my sleeves, I’m thinking. I’m toying with knitting about three inches and then doing maybe three Eyelet Rib repeats.

The next row, I’m thinking I’ll decrease 2 stitches between the Eyelet pattern to kind of cinch up the top of the ribbing and narrow the cuff a little immediately above when I go back to stockinette st, which should still leave a sufficient width to put my hand through. My hope is that this will create a kind of bell shape to the sleeve at the cuff. I want long sleeves… I love a cuff that brushes my knuckles.

I’ve haven’t decided if I want the sleeve to fit around my lower arm, but I do know I don’t want it tight… snug maybe, but no real negative ease.

What I still haven’t decided at all is whether to work any of the Eyelet stitches up the sleeves or just work stockinette all the way. I think it might be most effective to leave the sleeves plain except for the cuff and leave the Eyelets to the body of the sweater. Another option is to only put a column of eyelets up the center of the sleeves. I’m pretty sure I don’t want to scatter them on the sleeve.

Won’t be able to work out the details until I’ve actually cast on and see how it works out. I expect I’ll be able to start sleeves tomorrow or Monday.

Jan 12:
YAY! Finally finished the body to the underarm! That really shouldn’t have taken me this long. There a lots of distractions in my life right now though, so I probably be more patient with myself.

I wound up a second full ball of yarn, set up two sets of 4.5mm circulars on 24” cables. I knit them sequentially together… that works best for me for things like socks and sleeves and legs, etc. I work a bit on one, then a bit on the other. I don’t care for two things on one Magic Loop. I rip & tink too often.

Tonight, I’ll cast on both sleeves and start the second phase of my sweater. As I recall, this part went a little more quickly than the body does. One thing I like about knitting sweaters from the bottom-up is that I get all the boring stuff over with first. Once I get to the sleeves, things go more quickly and there are more things changing more often. :-)

… later…
My original plan to work stockinette stitch on the sleeves before the Eyelet Ribbing worked out about as I thought it would, in reality. In my head, I have this picture of what I wanted it to look like. My knitting experience told me the stockinette would roll and I would be very unhappy. But I didn’t want to do a few rounds of seed stitch or something and I really didn’t want a rolled hem at the cuff… or any of the other things that would prevented the rolling of stockinette.

However because the picture was so firmly in my head, I conceded that the most effective way to eradicate it was to start by working what I saw in my head. It was, in fact, very effective. About the sixth round, reality was unavoidable.

So. Now I’m going to try this instead. :-)

Cuff

• Cast on 49 stitches and work a 5x2 rib (k5, p2; repeat from) for 3”
• then 5 Eyelet Rib repeats (about 2”-3”)
• next round: slip 1 stitch purlwise, k3, ktog (last Eyelet Rib & the 1st purl stitch), k3, (2nd purl stitch & the first Eyelet Rib); repeat around to last k2tog which will require using the 1st slipped stitch at the beginning of the round together with the last Eyelet Rib stitch
• about 5 repeats of Eyelet Ribbing (about 2”) …
• then possibly return to 5x2 ribbing to just below the elbow

If I don’t care for how the Eyelet Ribbing works, I think I’ll just do 5x2 ribbing to just below the elbow, then switch to stockinette and sprinkle the eyelet stitch pattern on the upper sleeves as I’ve done for the body.

I really love the Eyelet Ribbing, but I don’t want it right at the cuff… I know it’ll catch on things and that would drive me a little buggy. So, I’m hoping that moving it up to the wrist area will work cuz I’d like to work a little bit of it into the sleeve somewhere, and that seems like it would be the next most logical place.

I’m also toying, though, with possibly knitting some fingerless mitts in this same yarn. Maybe, I can work some of the Eyelet Ribbing somehow into those?

Jan 13:
Worked 3” of 5x2 ribbing
Seven Eyelet Ribbing repeats
Went back to 5x2 ribbing with no increases or decreases… think I like it. :-)

Jan 15:
Almost finished with the ribbing section of both sleeves. I’ve done 3” of 5x2 ribbing, then 7 Eyelet Ribbing repeats, followed with 3” of 5x2 ribbing.

Just a couple more rounds to the next phase of the sleeves. My plan is to increase 7 stitches in the next round after the last 5x2 ribbing and start working stockinette with the same sequence of eyelet stitch as I’ve worked on the body above the ribbing.

Jan 17:
Got to the elbow on one sleeve last night. I haven’t read of anyone doing this before, but because the sleeve is a little on the snug side, and I can find that a little annoying at the inner elbow when I bend my arm, I decided to try something:

I put in one short row, 9 stitches on either side of the middle underside stitch. I worked one eyelet stitch pattern row that includes two increase stitches on the back side of the sleeve, then worked one more round, then when I got to the back of the sleeve the next time, I worked one short row. That puts the short row right at my elbow.

It’s just a little bit of extra ease and I wouldn’t have done it if the sleeve had been looser. Too early to tell if it helped or made no difference, so I’ll try to remember to come back and report how I like it after I’ve worn it a little while. (note: I’m pleased with the results and would consider doing it again for a snug fitting sleeve at the elbow. I think I would also add a couple more increases before the point of the elbow. I get a little “bagging” at the back of the elbow and I’m thinking that if I’d added just a bit more positive ease at that point in the sleeve, that might not be an issue.)

Jan 19:
Both sleeves are ready to join to the body. Gosh I love the fit of these sleeves! Think I’m gonna have to break down and actually go see a doctor tomorrow… sick again and my asthma meds are hardly doing anything at all. If I’m not doing measurably better tomorrow, I’m thinking I probably shouldn’t push it this time.

Therefore, I’m not sure if I’m going to be up to attaching the sleeves tomorrow or not. At the very least, I’m hoping that I’ll be able to attach my sleeves and knit a couple of rounds to get the top going. If I’m not feeling too badly, maybe I’ll be able to finish this over the weekend.

Jan 26:
Went to the doctor. They almost sent me to the ER. Pneumonia. No wonder my inhaler wasn’t helping. :-\ Doing better, but it has seriously slowed forward progress on lots of things. I didn’t trust myself to do the math correctly or that I was thinking clearly enough to make the transitions correctly.

However, I did finish my sleeves since my last post and this afternoon I joined the sleeves to the body and have almost finished the 1.5” of stitches before starting my seam decreases.

I’ve decided on either the feather or prominent feather seam decreases. I’m leaning toward a U-neck instead of a crew neck… I think it will be more becoming with the fabric and style of the overall sweater this is becoming. I’m planning to start it when I’ve got between 4 rows of stockinette above the last pattern row and just below the next pattern row.

I’m hoping I might be able to finish the sweater this weekend! Depends on how much time I’ll have to knit and how many things interrupt my focus.

I’m also working on an Evernote with all the essential info for my next BottomUp sweater… a sort of “Cliff Notes” from the Sweater Workshop. If you’re interested in a pdf of that, just PM me here. You will have to have the book for them to be useful, but once you’ve made a basic sweater of some sort from The Sweater Workshop, my notes should prove to be helpful reminders of the steps along the way, and will probably be helpful if you feel a little overwhelmed with all the dialogue of the text. :-) I’ll eventually make them available on my blog… if I ever get back to writing on that. :-\

Jan 27:
I don’t mind Kitchener Stitch/Grafting. Really. I don’t. What I hate is, in a situation like this where you add one part to another part and then keep on knitting. The stitches at the top and bottom of the opening get all stretched out.

In the future, I’m going to do one of two things:

• graft the stitches, first, then work the joining round
• secure the “off needle” stitches to one another in some way until I graft them later so there is as little pulling as possible

… I’m seriously leaning toward the first option; to address the stitch-stretching issue, but also to make it easier to try it on and check the fit. Next bottom-up sweater, rather than put the stitches on scrap yarn, I’m going to put them on DPNs right away and graft them together… then resume stitching the joining round. If it means I have to do a little stitching inside later to smooth those joins up, I think I’d prefer that.

Does anyone else have this issue? Please comment if you do, and what, if anything, do you do to avoid the stitch-pulling-before-grafting?

It isn’t an issue with socks where you are grafting the last stitches at the end of the project. It is more of a problem with things like adding sleeves or with the crotch of my Nether Garment. I’m not sure if it is simply the weight of the different pieces or if that matters. With my Nether Garment, I safety pinned the crotch stitches with my curved basting pins, but I still wasn’t happy with the results. It was better, but there was still more pulling than I was pleased about. I ended up grafting the crotch a little way past, because I just wasn’t happy.

So, I’ve still got one or two rounds of the 1.5” stitching, but I’m going to graft the armholes now. I just stopped knitting last night because I was too tired to stop and do the grafting right then.

Once I’ve got both sets of stitches onto DPNs it might not look as bad as it feels like it is now, but I have visions of “patching” holes at the beginning and end of the grafted seams if I just keep going. I can do that, but it just seems like it makes the most sense to graft first and work the joining round after. I’ll try to remember to come back here and make a note from a future project about how that worked out for me.

Jan 28:
I am SO glad I stopped and did the grafting! It was really getting ugly and if I’d continued, it would only have gotten worse. I had to duplicate stitch the holes closed on both ends… what looked like almost three rows worth!

In the future, I will definitely graft the sleeves on first. No question. If I have to do a little cleanup at the intersections, it can’t possibly be as bad. I’d forgotten I’d had the same issue with my first sweater. Since then, I’ve done a lot more knitting, though. I know it wasn’t “just me” this time. This is the only serious issue I’ve got with the instructions in this book, but easily remedied.

Feb 1:
This is taking a ridiculous amount of time to finish. It isn’t the design or the project… it’s the knitter and her crazy life right now.

I’m right at the point of starting the neck opening. I got too tired to risk screwing that up tonight so I put it away in favor of taking my time to review closely the notes on that process in the book and make certain I’ve got it clear what I need to do to transition to knitting the balance of the top flat and make sure I’m making that transition on the correct row.

Because I made the sleeves extra long and added extra length to the body, I’m going to need one more skein of yarn to complete this. Maybe not a full skein, but more than the ten I started with. I’ve got ten more of this yarn in this dyelot, so I’m good.

I chose the Prominent Feather Seamline and love the way it looks with the other stitch patterns in the sweater. If it weren’t so gray and gloomy, I’d have taken more photos sooner but now that I’m so close to being finished, I’ll wait for the final pictures.

Thought I might finish this last weekend. Let’s see if I can finish it this weekend. Need to try to get over to the doctor tomorrow for, hopefully, my last recheck on the pneumonia and hopefully they’ll be happy with the progress I’ve made this time. I’m coughing a lot less and feel a lot more clear. Depending on how long that takes, I will hopefully have more time to knit. Who knows? I might be able to finish it tomorrow. nah.

Feb 4:
Twenty more decreases on the sleeves, then the ribbing at the neck… and I’ll finally have this baby done! It is seriously ridiculous that it’s taken me this long because it is an easy knit. I simply haven’t been motivated or sufficiently focused to stay on task.

Depending on how much time I get tomorrow to knit, it is possible I could finish this tomorrow. If not, certainly by Monday unless something unforeseen happens. Looking forward to blocking it.

Feb 5:
Finished all the raglan decreases! Tomorrow I’ll finish the neck, weave ends, and hopefully have time to block it before the end of the day.

Feb 6:
The directions always tell you to pick up the stitches from the slipped stitches on the front sides of the neck. I always hate how that looks! I also hate the row of stitches inside the neck when I pick up the stitches that way, and when I do it the way I like the way it looks on the outside - which is to pick up the stitches into the middle of the last full row of stitches. But I haven’t found an alternative so I go with what I like on the outside and screw what happens on the inside. I haven’t seen anyone doing it any differently, so maybe that’s just the way it has to be done.

I’m thinking that in future sweaters, I’m not going to slip those side neck stitches. I don’t want to use them to pick up the neck finishing stitches anyway so why make them? I’m gonna have a ridge of some sort inside the neck regardless, it appears, so it makes more sense to make that edge differently. For my next sweater, rather than slip the first stitch, I’m going to purl it… maybe I’ll like picking up the stitches better that way and it’ll leave a firmer edge and fewer holes.

I worked 2x2 ribbing for 3/4” and bound off with Elizabeth Zimmermann’s Sewn Bindoff. This is a new one for me. I didn’t want to use Jeny’s Super Stretchy Bindoff and I didn’t want to do a “regular” bindoff. I wanted something sufficiently stretchy but that also had a “clean” look… plus I’ve read a lot about EZ’s Sewn Bindoff and wanted to try it so this seemed like a good opportunity.

All that’s left is to block it… and wear it! (BTW, it took the entire 11 skeins to complete this sweater… see photo of how much I had left of the last skein!)

Feb 7:
AAAKKKK!!!! Spoke too soon!!!

Finished the last of the bindoff, got it completely off needle, laid it out flat to admire my finally finished project… and look at my neck!!! This is what happens when you have too many stitches around your neck and do not decrease them in the first row!!! The problem is almost entirely at the front corners where I over-compensated to eliminate holes… and then failed to decrease any stitches because I was tired and not paying any attention to what I was doing. I can probably decrease out almost a third of the stitches I picked up around the front corners. The back neck and top sides are fine… it’s just the lower front that’s a mess. :-\ I don’t regret picking up as many stitches as I did, only that I didn’t also decrease some of them out for the ribbing.

And, I might add, I love the EZ Sewn Bindoff (EZSBO)… but it is gonna be a bear to undo so I can frog back to my pickup row and reknit the neck. In the future I will do a regular bindoff, first, and make sure I’ve got the stitch count where I need it… once I’m sure the neck is laying correctly, I can change the bindoff easily. Ripping out a regular bindoff will take seconds if it isn’t right… and just a minute to put in, unlike the EZSBO… and then I can work EZ’s Sewn Bindoff. Much smarter plan. These are the sorts of lessons you learn and never forget. LOL!

The Elizabeth Zimmermann Sewn Bindoff takes time, but it isn’t bulky, is sufficiently stretchy, is unobtrusive, and for circumstances where you don’t want to draw any attention to your bind off, it is really perfect and worth the extra time. Just don’t pull your stitches tightly… match your stitching gauge and don’t pay attention to what it looks like up close. The only time anyone will be looking that closely at the stitches is when you are working the cast off. Once off needle, you won’t even notice the bindoff.

… later…
ripping out the EZSBO wasn’t nearly as bad as I thought it would be. It did take a while, but it wasn’t difficult. Have the stitches ripped, back on needle, and have done the first ribbing round. Hopefully, I’ve decreased sufficiently and this will be the last time I do the neck on this. Will work 3/4” again and do a regular bindoff to check if I’ve got the right number of stitches. Hopefully, I’ve accurately assessed the excess. :-)

Feb 8:
Amazing what a little concentration and focus can do.

I did some serious decreasing around the front section… one decrease for every 5 stitches for most of the front, from the top of one sleeve, around the front, and back to the top of the other sleeve. I used removable stitch markers to section off a set of center front stitches and then divided the stitches from there to the top of the sleeves into two additional sections on both sides. I also did a few decreases on the back neck too… just to be on the safe side. Not many, but a few.

Rather than bind off, I just knit the last round of the neck onto a longer circular cable. I felt that would be sufficient to determine if I’d taken enough of the slack out of the neck for the ribbing. I can safely work my Elizabeth Zimmermann Sewn Bindoff and proceed to blocking… tomorrow. It is now just after 1am and I’m too tired to finish this. It is sufficient to know that all is well. The bind off won’t take long and then I can block and take finished photos. If I don’t forget, I’ll take a shot of the neck with the cable before the bind off.

… later…
Okay boys and girls… she is officially finished!!! I took new photos of the neck before working the EZSBO again, neck looks fabulous, the few ends I had to weave in are woven in. All that’s left is the bath and blocking, which I will do just as soon as Gilmore Girls is done.

If I were going to make this again, and I don’t know that I won’t, I would add two more Eyelet Rib repeats at the hem. It isn’t too snug, but it fits more closely around the hips than I really wanted.

… on a sad note… my DMIL passed away this afternoon as I was finishing this sweater. I was halfway through the bindoff when DH came in and told me she’d passed while the hospice nurse was with us, at 1:45pm on February 8, 2012. I’ve worked on this sweater through her final months, often sitting by her bed knitting in the near dark of her night light so she’d stay quiet long enough to fall asleep and I’ll not be able to wear it without thinking about her and this bittersweet change in our life. My lack of focus and motivation has largely been the result of the almost around the clock care she’s needed from either myself or my husband since October. Her needs have significantly increased each day since, until the last three days. She was accepted into the hospice program on Dec 27th and that additional support was a godsend in so many ways.

She was sufficiently alert in the early stages of my sweater to be able to appreciate what I was making and to make a couple of complimentary comments on it. (which, honestly, wasn’t always to be expected from her) I’m not sure I can put it into words, but this sweater is a comfort on so many levels and I’m so glad I was making this particular project as we took care of her in her final days. Even the design seems so appropriate to me.

P.S. I made the necklace in the last photos as well.

BLOCKING… the essentials
• Why block hand knits? Here’s why (and how)!… TECHknitting
• Walk around the block… Yarn Harlot; blocking with no wires
• Use 50#-60# Fishing Line instead of blocking wires
• How to Block a Knitted or Crocheted Shawl… tutorial
• more Blocking links @ KPL’s Favorite Videos & Tutorials > Blocking

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