I’ve always been bummed that my high instep prevents me from using short row and FLK heels. I came across Ysolda’s Deep Shadow Heel tutorial and give it a try. Guess what? It actually fits! One has to keep in mind that this heel has gussets created by decreasing the extra stitches that were created in the heel. Therefore, there will be still pattern interruption and thin stripes in the heel area when using self-striping yarn, as there would be with a heel flap & gusset.

Math-wise, I usually create a 68 stitch count (fingering weight) to 72 stitch count (light fingering weight) tube for my sock’s leg and foot. Right before my heel turn, I ideally need my stitch count to be 102 (fingering) to 106 (light fingering). Using Ysolda’s deep shadow heel method, I would have a stitch count of 90 (fingering) or 96 (light fingering) leaving me 12 or 10 sts short, respectively. I used a 72 st count and created mini gussets (3 sts on each side of the needle holding sole sts; used magic loop) leading up to the heel. I had a total of 104 sts before beginning my gusset decreases.

Sock aesthetic inspired by Made in Abyss. Used Cottonwood chart from Alterknit Stitch Dictionary.

Jogless Fair Isle In The Round
Ysolda’s Deep Shadow Heel
Jogless Single Row Stripe (start at 3:55)