Whippoorwill
Finished
November 9, 2017
December 5, 2017

Whippoorwill

Project info
Whippoorwill by Carina Spencer
Knitting
Neck / TorsoShawl / Wrap
Medium
Needles & yarn
US 9 - 5.5 mm
22 stitches = 4 inches
598 yards
Louet KidLin Lace Weight
0.75 skeins = 187.5 yards (171.5 meters), 37 grams
DBNY - Discontinued Brand Name Yarn
Schulana Mosco
none left in stash
3 skeins = 411.0 yards (375.8 meters), 75 grams
littleknits
Notes

11-13-2017

I made a third stripe because I wanted a large shawl but didn’t want to make just a bigger stockinette section. I made mine in a size medium but I tried to write the notes so that anyone could use them.

How I made a third contrast section:

Starting at Row 77 (96, 120) In CC- This is where the pattern says to “Work in pattern for 2 rows”, (that would be row 77 and 78).

Row 77- (RS) Do Eyelet row:
K2, YO K1, (YO, k2tog) rep to last 2 sts, YO, k2.

Row 78- (WS) work like row 68:
K2, YO, k to last 2 sts, YO, k2.

Row count: 287 (413, 497)-- same as pattern for now.

Row 79- Change back to MC:
K2, YO, k to last 2 sts, YO, k2. (2 sts increased)

Row 80-82: Work in pattern for 3 rows (6 sts more)

Row 83: This is your increase row. Follow instructions for row 79 in sec.3 on pattern as stated except making adjustments for the 8 increased sts. Where it says K4 in the beginning, K8; and where it says K5 at the end, K9 (because of the 4 added sts on either side.)

Row count: 323 (461, 553)

Row 84: Work in pattern 1 row. (2sts +)

From here on, I’m writing my notes on how I adjusted the pattern’s shaping rows. Because of doing more rows, I now have more sts than the pattern calls for.

Row 85 is the first row of the border so if you don’t want it to be in contrast yarn, keep your main color on.
Row 85: Change to CC and work in pattern. (2sts +)

Row 86 (WS): K2, YO, k to last 2 sts, YO, k2. (2sts +)

Row 87-88: Work in pattern these 2 rows (4sts +)

Row count: 333 (471, 563)

Row 89: K2, YO, K1tbl, K1 (K1, M1) 4 times, (SSK) 4times, {(k2tog) 4 times, M1, (K1, M1) 7 times, (SSK) 4 times} rep until 16 sts remain, (k2tog) 4 times, (M1, K1) 4 times, K2, YO, K2. (2sts+)

Row 90-92: Work in pattern for 3 rows, (+6sts)

Row 93: K2, YO, K1tbl, K4, (K1, M1) 4 times, (SSK) 4times, {(k2tog) 4 times, M1, (K1, M1) 7 times, (SSK) 4 times} rep until 20 sts remain, (k2tog) 4 times, (M1, K1) 4 times, K5, YO, K2. (2sts+)

Row 94-97: Work in pattern for 4 rows, (+8sts)

Row 98 (WS): K2, YO, k to last 2 sts, YO, k2. (2sts +)

Row 99: Eyelet row:
K2, YO K1, (YO, k2tog) rep to last 2 sts, YO, k2.

Bind off :D (WS, in knit to get garter bumps)

12-12-2017

Finished this awhile ago but wanted to add a few more notes. I noticed a lot of people saying they had to rip out hundreds of sts or something like that. I would have had to rip out a lot too as I was way off often but I managed to work with it. It doesn’t look flawless but I think it is still beautiful.

Here’s what I did-- I had the wrong number of sts starting halfway through the stockinette portion and kept finding I was getting off. This is what I did to fudge it. Basically, read knitting and watch for landmarks.

In detail, here’s how I did the lace portion even though I was off. I tried doing one lace repeat, starting from different points (i.e. after the first 3 sts, then tried 5 sts, tried 8 sts, see what works) until the lace repeat is pretty much in the middle of the lace repeat underneath it.
Then you see your landmarks, looking at the lace repeat below, how many YO’s are there in the beginning before you started the current lace repeat? How many YO’s are there below when you have finished? Mine was 2 yo before and 3 after, with the current lace pattern in between.
The edging lace has 8 YOs but if your’s is messed up like mine was, you might only fit in 6 or 7 YOs in some places. The key is to keep your lace repeats in the center of the earlier lace repeat below. It should look like it’s coming from the middle->out. That is what you really notice.

Mods-- On row 93, to get a more rippley look, I added 4 extra sts on either end by doing the (K1, M1) 8 times (to make a full curve) instead of 4 times.

Bound off in contrast white mohair and put beads on the curved sections to help weigh them down. When I blocked, I used three pins for every curve.

12-23-2017

One word about the M1’s-- For the setup row, I did twisted YO’s. From there on out, I did regular YO’s on the increase rows.
Also, the yo’s on the sides-- sometimes, I knit into the front and back of them and then knit those two sts together when I came back around. Idk why but one side kept looking a lot looser than the other side so I did this and it turned out great.
The Kidlin I used in the border is really nice. The linen gives it a lot of crispness and the mohair softens. Lovely combination.

The mosco is amazing yarn- elastic, shiny and fuzzy. Wish I had more :)

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Finished
November 9, 2017
December 5, 2017
About this pattern
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About this yarn
by Louet
Lace
49% Linen / Flax, 35% Mohair, 16% Nylon
250 yards / 50 grams

1275 projects

stashed 1979 times

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About this yarn
by Schulana
Light Fingering
67% Rayon, 20% Mohair, 13% Nylon
137 yards / 25 grams

592 projects

stashed 727 times

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  • Project created: November 12, 2017
  • Finished: December 7, 2017
  • Updated: August 7, 2018
  • Progress updates: 3 updates