02.01.2024

Yarn and pattern bought, now I need to start!

There are a couple of parts in the pattern that are very confusing to me… but hopefully they will become more clear with time

05.01.2024

GAUGE RAMBLING
I started. I’m off gauge as usual (even though usually on the opposite side), had something like 26x40 instead of 30x38. I really don’t want to knit with 2.5 (and it would make my vertical gauge waaaaay off then), so i decided to knit one size less. The 10% deviation should at the end result in a size 4 (more or less) even if I knit a size 3. The difference in length between the 2 is minimal, just 1cm in the collar (which I could add), and obviously overall length and sleeves length that I will likely have to adjust regardless. So let’s start!

05.01.2024

BACK PANEL
Already at the start, I’m very confused by how the increases/decreases are described.
I find it very confusing to not know from the pattern if I have to do a P1L/R or K1L/R and instead have a generic M1R/L. The logic to understand which increase it is, as explained in the pattern, really doesn’t make a lot of sense to me (edit from the future: it makes sense now )

So, at least for the back panel, on page 3, I’m following the following logic of increases:

Row 1: K1L / K1R
Row 2: P1L / P1R

Row 3: P1L / P1R
Row 4: K1L / K1R

This pattern gets repeated up to Row 28.

I’m not fully sure this is correct, but it seems like it is, the 2x2 pattern seems to be coming out correctly then (edit from the future: it’s correct).

10.01.2024

I finished with the first set of increases of the back and my increases logic turned out to be alright!
Now as much as I’d like to continue I need to take a small break to finish another beanie that I have on my other needles, but I’ll come back to this as soon as possible!

13.01.2024

I’m slow but continuing the back panel.
I decided to probably continue for 4 additional rows to achieve the length of size 4.
If I understand correctly from the front panel, I just have to do 6 rows instead of 2 there, right after placing the marker to transition the collar/button band

14.01.2024

Almost finished with the second set of increases at the back, to shape the back after the arms.
Once again, pattren slightly unclear with the increases (but easy to identify while working).

R1 and R3: K1L / K1R
R5 and R7: P1L / P1R
(R2, 4, 6, 8 are the WS and have no increases)
The 8 rows are repeated twice for a total of 16 rows.

As for R2 and R6, when you work the WS after the first increases, be mindful you will have one additional stitch on top of the 2x2 repetition

15.01.2024

I picked up the sts for the right shoulder and front but I think I might have picked them up on the wrong side? I have no idea XD.
Also picking up sts in black yarn in 3mm… I think I need to book an appointment with the eye doctor.

… Thanks to hejwik who reassured me I’m doing the right thing, I’m continuing!
So I picked up sts on the right shoulder starting from the shoulder, finishing up to top of the neck. In order to continue knitting from the skein then I’ll have to pull my needle all the way through and start knitting from the shoulder.

16.01.2024

SHOULDERS / FRONT PANELS

Increases / decreases are also a bit confusing:

Right shoulder / Left shoulder (the / separates them)
First set of increases and decreases:
R1: P2tog - K1R / K1L - P2togTBL
R5: K2tog - P1R / K1L - SSK
R9: K2tog - P1R / P1L - SSK
R13: P2tog - P1R / P1L - P2togTBL

Second set of increases/decreases:
R1: P2tog - K1R / K1L - P2togTBL
R3: K1R / K1L
R5: K2tog - P1R / P1L - SSK
R7: P1R / P1L
R9: K2tog - K1R / K1L - SSK
R11: K1R / K1L
R13: P2tog - P1R / P1L - P2togTBL
R15: P1R / P1L

There are further increases decreases later, but hopefully you can get the gist with this! (feel free to ping me if you need additional help).

Also, I think there is a mistake in describing the SSK (which is not called SSK in the pattern): it’s described with slip k with yarn on the back, slip p with yarn on the front, and knit tbl the 2 stitches. But I wouldn’t know how to move back the yarn to knit tbl then. I think a normal ssk (slip knitwise, slip purlwise, ktbl) is the right decrease.

I had to frog half way through the rights shoulder because I was reading the pattern for the left (yeah I know)…

When picking up sts for the left shoulder, should also go from right to left (from neck to shoulder).

Also not necessary to have a second pair of 3mm to connect the left panel with back and right panel. You can make do with any equal or smaller spare needle (I used a 2.75mm)

20.01.2024

CONNECTING PANELS
Almost ready to start with the button band. I’ve only used one skein so far, seems I miscalculated quite a lot when I bought 8 XD

One thing: I had misunderstood, you need to place in total 4 markers under the armpits: 2 on each sleeves before and after the central couple of sts of the newly casted on ones.

24.01.2024

BUTTON BAND(S)
Disclaimer: Pattern recommends a 2.5mm x 40cm needle, but I definitely recommend at least 60 or 80cm to work the button band.

As usual, it took me a while to understand the pattern in some points.
I picked up 52 sts - considering I’m knitting a size 3, but I added 4 additional rows to meet length of size 4, I should have had 56 rows in theory, which I didn’t have. So involuntarily I ended up matching the pattern. However without those 4 rows I guess I could have picked up… 48 sts?

Then when doing the turkish provisional (not really mentioned in the pattern, but it is) cast on, the tip of the needles need to face the resting sts of the body, yes, but also facing left when you are looping the yarn around the needles.

Also, slightly confusing typo in the turkish cast on instructions: the pattern states to take another 2.5mm needle and place it below the main one with the picked up sts. It’s not another, it’s the other (assuming you are using circular needles).

I don’t love the left button band edge… it comes out a little uneven with just 1 slipped p. I would have probably considered adding one st and slip the last 2 sts at the end to create a nicer looking edge. Sigh
Right button band looks better.

28.01.2024

COLLAR

Suggestion! If you are about to start, do not knit the whole collar in double knitting. It will take F O R E V E R. Follow Nalessja recommendation and start knitting in the round after the german short rows. It’s going to be faster and the result will look neater. Unfortunately I read the brilliant solution when I was at 8/10cm so for consistency I continued in double knitting :°

There is a bit of a structural problem here to keep the structure of the double knitting.
The pattern calls for an even number of sts in the collar. However, the 2 button bands knitted before are one in k1,slp and the other in slip,k1. This means that you can either choose one of the following:

• Go with the pattern: R1 (WS), go with k1,slp across and this means that the right button band will have a row of visible purls, because it’s not worked following the previous pattern of slp,k1 (see my picture). The same will happen after the short rows once you work the RS. After that you can continue in slp,k1 across. PRO: you won’t have the ugly edge of the left button band. CONS: you will have a row of purls between button bands and collar
• Have un-even sts in the collar. This way you can have slp-k1 in the RS and k1-slip in the WS. This solves the problem but where to make it uneven? It will end up asymmetrical (could be added in the back, but then potentially the short rows won’t be symmetrical, unless you make one side start with purls)
• Start R1 (WS) with k1-slp for the button band, and then continue with slp-k1 across. This will solve the problem of the visible purl row, however it also feels a bit weird imo

Other than this: I picked up the number of sts as in the pattern without major problems. instead of having 48-58-48 I would have had 50 - 54 - 50 but it’s the same in the end.
I placed a marker after 48 and 58 so it’s easier to work the short rows and I also use it as a check to ensure I’m in pattern.

(it’s going to take forever).

For the bindoff I used a classic 1x1 italian (pattern is wrongly suggesting to do 2x2 but must be a typo).

Finally, 12 days later I’m done with the collar!!!!! I’m not super happy to be honest, the edges are ok but not perfect and here and there I made some small mistakes that are not really visible but bug me.

I finished with a RS, because the first row in double knitting was a WS.

February 9, 2024

BODY

Move the stitches of the left front panel to your right needle under 1 st after the first marker underneath the left armhole. Place a marker to mark the BOR.

Under is a typo, should be “until” instead. Basically you will end up with 3 markers under the left armpit -> M, st, BOR-M, st, M

For joining the 2 button bands together: https://youtu.be/IAyBfFS78Kg?si=1WWU1YKW3pA_drhF&t=55

Be careful, there is a missing K2tog in the pattern after joining the 2 button bands:

The two button bands now have to be joined. Place the right button band over the left and work k2tog until all the button band stitches are joined. Continue in 2 x 2 rib as established until the BOR under the left armhole.

It should be: “K2tog then continue in 2x2 rib as established…

BODY SHAPING
The pattern is not clear on when to do the first decrease to shape the body. It also obviously depends on your body. In my case I started the first decrease after about 11cm from the joined button band. I tried it on and started right after my chest.

March 1, 2024

BIND OFF
Finally binding off the body!!!
I followed this technique (n.3): https://youtube.com/watch?v=mvqp8R02RQA&t=281s

So I reversed the sts to reach 1x1 using a smaller needle (2.75mm - I could have probably used 2.5mm but I was concerned it would be too tight to wear. I think I’ll use 2.5 for the sleeves though), and then just 2 rows of tubular (not 4) before binding off in invisible.

Now I can finally start the sleeves!

March 4, 2024

SLEEVES
I think the pattern decreases are weirdly spaced out.
If I decrease every 7 rows, starting at 7cm from the armpit, I will finish the decreased with a sleeve that is 52-54cm long which is the final length of my arm (and something to consider: I always have to add 5-10cm length to every pattern because apparently I have long arms, so for average arms this means you won’t have enough space to finish the decreases).
So I decided to decrease every 6th row instead, this should leave me with about 10cm without decreases at the wrists. We’ll see!