Waiting for the yarn to arrive. As I was telling my husband about the knit along and describing the sweater and feedback on the yarn, my husband secretly entered me in the knit along and ordered the yarn.
But he is keeping the color a secret until I open the box!

Two ways to alternate skeins every other row to avoid color pooling in Kettle dyed yarns:
http://techknitting.blogspot.com/2011/03/helix-barberpole...
https://youtu.be/OCify4aiTBY

I will apply the Helical Spiral Method method on the hem and the 4” the garter row cuffs to avoid the vertical seam on that shows on the outside when switching from a purl row to a knit row as when knitting garter stitch in the round. I will continue on with the Helical Spiral Method in the Sleeves and body to alternate the skeins each row to prevent cooling pooling with this kettle dye yarn. This will avoid the column of twisted yarn on the inside. Instead of moving a stitch marker each time I stop 3 sts before, I would bring the yarn that just finished the round to the front to alert me. I know to stop 3 sts from where I see the yarn waiting out front. I also wound the skeins into different shapes: one as a cylinder, and one as a sphere. The sphere was used for purling so I could see at a quick glance which stitch I was on.
https://www.masondixonknitting.com/the-helical-lifestyle/
Edited: Roxanne came out with a video showing helical method applied to garter stitch. At the time I was making this sweater (2years ago) I could only find videos and books using the Helical Method for 1-row stripes. Her video is very clear and worth watching.
https://youtu.be/tFlm0xfq2NU

Swatching:
I’ll cast-on for the sleeves before I knit the body so I can use the sleeves as my in-the-round swatch.

Swatching flat for in-the-round project:
Cast on 28 stitches -- the 18 knitted stitches, plus a border at each end of 3 garter stitches and then 2 purl stitches. To knit flat, slide the stitches back to the other end of the needle and stranded the yarn back across for each row.

Joining new yarn:
Braided join to switch same color yarn, handle yarn knots, and to eliminate weaving in two tails when using two skeins in Long Tail Cast-on:
https://youtu.be/2-u66X5RYjc
The braided join will work on any fiber

“Spit” Join will also work since the fiber is all wool (felt-able) and not super-wash.

Best cast ons for bottom up sweaters gleaned from a tips and tricks workshop in SF:
https://fringeassociation.com/2014/03/26/q-for-you-how-do...
google.com18
Lucy Nearby video compares two long tail cast ons about half way through her video:
https://youtu.be/Af1xpkBBYxs
Lucy Neatby on Knitting: German Twisted Cast On
I tried the alternating cable and switched the order of the purl and knit cast on loops to follow 2x2 ribbing. Looks nice but can’t yet imagine using this method for more than 100 stitches.
I will probably do Long-tail or German Twisted cast-on and use two balls of yarn for the cast on so I don’t have to measure out the tail length or chance running too short or too excessive. I’ll use a braided join and no slip knot to minimize bulk.
seams give a nice vertical fold to the fabric that helps true the sweater up when blocking to counter the natural twist. It offers a little structure, too.

Ease: hip 1-3” neg
waist 2-5” positive
torso 1=tight 2=ave 3=loose
Don’t go greater than 3” from torso circ or it won’t fit in shoulders.
Match pattern bust size to torso circ (at underarm level)
If Bust is 2” greater than torso, add darts
Bicep ease .5-1.5”
Wrist ease 2-3”
Length to hip bone= mid hip most flattering
Anyplace it fits tighter, the knit fabric tends to shorten, so consider short rows from waist to hem to keep bottom hem from riding up in back and short rows near sleeve-join if larger bust and short rows at neck to drop front of neck line down.
If making short sleeves, consider length near fullest breast level, or waist level depending what area you want to emphasize.
Faux seams:
Faux seams give a nice vertical fold to the fabric that helps true the sweater up when blocking to counter the natural twist. It offers a little structure, too.
You can drop a column of knit stitches. Then crochet the ladders up one of three ways:
1) pull ladders through loop purl-wise. I like the look of the recessed purled fold. Especially neat when following up from a purl column of a ribbed hem. With a 1x1 ribbing, I dropped two columns to change to purl w knit stitch between--like a narrow column of ribbing.
2)pull ladders knitwise through loop alternating between one and two ladders which looks like slip stitches
3) pull ladders through loop alternating between knit wise and purl-wise which gives a column of garter stitch. This might be a neat choice with this sweater and its garter stitch hem.

Faux seam can continue along underarm of sleeves as well as the body sides

You have plenty of time to contemplate if you want a faux seam or which design for it as you knit the body.

Hem flipping:
Some Knitters mentioned the garter stitch hem curls substantially. Here a link for tips:
http://thecraftsessions.com/blog/2016/8/12/how-to-stop-he...
http://techknitting.blogspot.com/2011/08/how-i-cured-gart...
http://techknitting.blogspot.com/2007/12/zig-zag-bands.ht...
On another sweater I’m using a garter rib hem. The narrow vertical column of knit stitches seems up counter the stress caused by the different tensions similar to the zig-zag cure that Tech Knit mentions. It’s the hem on the Guernsey Sweater located on my project page.

M1L and M1R increases:
https://blog.tincanknits.com/2013/10/03/m1/

Better SSK Decreases: lays flatter if Slip kw, Slip purlwise, insert left needle through front of slipped stitches and Knit tbl
Decreases for waist shaping lean toward seam to be less obvious; whereas the raglan decreases on either side of cable section will slant Away from cable for a stronger line.
http://www.twistcollective.com/collection/component/conte...

I prefer German Short Rows over the W & T short rows because the material has a more even thickness at the turning point and blends in better.
German Short Rows two places:
1) Shape neck three sets covering 85% of stitches (about 20% left alone at front center) Go around shoulders and begin turn about 35% in from side markers.
2)To keep back of sweater from riding up: start an inch after hem and use only stitches in the back half of sweater turning at side markers. Have two inches straight knitting between the three sets.
https://youtu.be/52qy8OOb-s0
https://youtu.be/3GM4guKpUJs

Needle cables:
You could knit the sleeves Two at a Time w magic loop so you can make sure their shaping matches.
It is Handy to order more short length cables to slide the sleeve and body stitches onto to that are set aside to be grafted together later. For cable end stoppers you can use standard safety pins. The lifeline hole in the cable ends is big enough to pass a safety pin in. You can use a safety pin at each end if trying a sweater on that’s still on cables or you can bring the cable ends together for one safety pin so stitches don’t slide off in the knitting bag. Safety pin can secure the stitches with the needle tips still attached or when the tips are removed for another project.

Start of My Project:
June 26: received my yarn! Mediterranean
It is one of the kettle dyes colors so I will want to alternate skeins every 1-2 rows to avoid color pooling.
I’m going to use Helical Spiral method to alternate skein each row. Thus will avoid the column of twisted yarns. Simultaneously I will also spiral the garter rows to avoid the transition line that shows when knitting garter stitch in the round.
https://www.masondixonknitting.com/the-helical-lifestyle/

Had to set the dye color. Dye bleeding happens more often with deep blues and reds.
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/re-fixing-dye/
https://www.stitchtogetherstudio.com/blogs/news/117182788...

Sleeves: started on the sleeves first to serve as my in-the-round swatch before I begin the body.
When working the edgings, whether garter stitch or ribbing, I like to go down three needle sizes from what I anticipate the body to be worked in.
On size 4 needles, I casted on 42 stitches (2 st more than the number for my size) using Old Norwegian Long Tail Cast-On.
I used the Helical Spiral to simultaneously alternate skeins each row and knit garter stitch without a vertical transition line on the outside between knit and purl rows when knitting garter stitch in the round and without having to twist the yarns on the inside.
https://www.masondixonknitting.com/the-helical-lifestyle/
I cast on using two skeins than began helical knitting by purling first round complete using the yarn that was over my thumb during the cast on (it’s the yarn that runs along the very bottom of the cast on.

Sleeve increases: used M1L after the marker, knit the round, and M1R, K1 before the marker.
First, I followed the pattern and increased every 4th row. The angle of increase looked too drastic so reknitted slowing increases to every 6th row. Calculated by taking my row gauge and anticipated sleeve length from cuff and evenly spacing the number of increase rows I need to get the final number stitches the sleeve needs to end with.
Knit sleeves to 18.5”. Placed 16 underarm stitches onto small length cable to hold.

Body: Cast-on 194 stitches (Old Norwegian CO) Used two skeins
Purl first row. Switched yarns and knit almost a row, stopping three stitches before reaching the yarn you had purled with. Drop the knit working yarn, slip the next three stitches, pick up the purl working yarn and start purling. Purl almost a row, stopping three stitches before getting to the waiting yarn you had knit stitched with. Drop the working yarn, slip the three stitches, pick up the waiting yarn for knit stitches.
I wound the two skeins into different shapes yarn balls to help keep me in track. Yarn from sphere shape ball I used for purling and when I picked up the yarn from the cake shape I knew I was ready to knit.
When garter stitch hem is long enough, continue same spiraling, slipping three stitches and switching yarns to alternate between the two skeins to prevent color pooling or if yarn is from different dye lots. To know where previous yarn is waiting you can bring yarn to the front to act as a moveable stitch marker to mark the transition place.

Lengthen back side near hem:
After 3” from cast-on, start German Short Rows on back to Jeep it from riding up. Did 3 sets 5 rows apart.

Waist shaping:
At same time, after 3.5” from cast-on, start decreases for waist shaping. Place markers third of the way in from sides for the back and fourth of the way in on the front. Do decreases outside of markers by knitting to 3 stitches before marker, SSK, K1, sm, knit to next marker, sm, K1, K2tog, repeat on other side. Decreases every 6th row for 6 sets. Knit straight 18 rows. Then do 3 sets increases 12 rows apart: knit to two stitches before marker, M1R, K1, sm, knit to next marker, sm, K1, M1L. Repeat for other side. Knit 6 rows and join sleeves

Short Rows to raise back of neck: use German Short Rows instead of standard W&T.

Cable Raglan: use mirrored cables twisting away from center. Follow designer’s paragraph instructions and the charted diagram. Note that the row by row cable instructions have the P4, K4 in wrong order and don’t match the diagram. Also the photos show cable direction opposite of what designer instructs.

Raglan decreases begin with third row of cable diagram and occur every odd row. Raglan decreases lean away from seam cable just like normal raglan design. K2 tog, k, (P2, cable, P2), k, ssk Use “better SSK”: slip kw, slip pw, knit tbl.

Gap to left of cable cross over: This is normal and will lessen as you knit more rows and as you wash the finished sweater and wear it. Knitting tightly will make it worse. Pay attention that you keep tension even. But two tips can minimize this gap: 1) slip the stitches from the cable needle back to the left needle before knitting them. 2) On the first purl stitch to the left of the cable cross over, bring the yarn under the needle clockwise. Purling Eastern style uses less yarn to minimize the gap but the stitch sits on needle w left leg in front ie twisted. You can correct the twist by purling tbl on next row.
http://blog.ysolda.com/ysolda-blog/2014/6/12/technique-th...
https://youtu.be/zFn_Glz6Cbk

July 20: I took a break from this sweater this whole week to work on the Guernsey sweater for youngest son. I dropped all three boys off for basketball ball camp, helped get their beds made in their dorm rooms. Then my youngest son took me aside and pointed out that, with them at camp, I wouldn’t have to help them with school work or drive them places. I’d have up to 18 hours I could just knit and Dad could cook for me. Could I use all those hours and just work on his sweater? I made no promises, but the next day I started working on just his sweater. I was impressed he figured out about how many hours you’re awake during the day instead of saying “24-7”. I also used the time to clear out their closets and take four large storage tubs full to Goodwill!

July 22: visited children’s book author and illustrator Patricia Polacco open house at her farm house built in 1856. Knitted on this sweater while sitting in her wicker porch swing with my middle son.

Neck edging: used size 4 needles (three sizes smaller than what I used to knit the body of the sweater
Neck decreases (P3, P2 tog, P2, P2 tog, P3) are done over the 12 stitches in the four cable sections. Continued garter hem until there are three purl ridges and ending w purl row.

Used sewn bind off which is companion bind off for the Long Tail cast on.

Postings during KAL:

beac
244 posts
OON- ZADIE FO’S
posted over 2 years ago in Grocery Girls Podcast
Body: Yes, knit the row but continue the cable pattern (row 2) when you get to it.

Shaping(i.e. SSK, K2tog): is done every-other round-- on the odd rows when you are just knitting all 8 stitches between the purls (3, 5, 7, etc.). The first cable is worked on row 9 and every 8 rows rows after that. You also do the raglan shaping on the cable rows, just like all the other odd rows.

I highly recommend reading through the KAL thread for Zadie: http://www.ravelry.com/discuss/grocery-girls-podcast/3635…

especially heyKerrianne’s posts:
http://www.ravelry.com/people/heyKerrianne/threads?topic_…
re: Hi, it’s me beac from the Zadie KAL
Sent at 9:16 PM July 31, 2017
One more question about cables, if you don’t mind…

You commented in the FO thread that the original photos in the pattern have the cables actually reversed from the way they are written in the pattern. I like that look. So, should I knit a right-leaning cable where it says left - leaning and vice-versa?

From: heyKerrianne
re: Hi, it’s me beac from the Zadie KAL
Sent at 5:08 PM July 17, 2017
The designer was aiming for about 4” positive ease. It looks like many of the finished sweaters had had zero or even negative ease. I wish they had project notes on their experiences.
I do understand that cables will draw the width of the fabric in about 25% so it is recommended to increase more stitches before a cabled section or cast on about 25% more stitches than your desired width.
As a general guide, the number of sleeve stitches is about a third of the body stitches. In this particular pattern the yoke design won’t be affected if your stitch count is different than the total stitch count in the instructions when you join the sleeves. So you can try on the sleeves and body as you go and adjust to your liking. I’m trying to allow for the generous positive ease. I packed three boys off to basketball camp two hours away this weekend and I am only about three cable crosses into the yoke so I don’t know yet how this will look.

From: winelover
replied
September 5, 2017
1:32 PM
Zadie question
Sent at 12:24 PM September 5, 2017
Your answers and notes have been so very helpful to me. I have one more question. I have completed the cable sections rows 1-24. I see that I repeat rows 9-24 again. I have 100 neck stitches as written. I am assuming I will NOT continue decreasing as I did for the first 1-24 rows. Thanks again. Maybe you should test knit patterns for Craftsy!wink

From: veneidig
replied
September 2, 2018
5:19 AM
Zadie
Sent at 7:02 PM September 1, 2018
I have been reading your post on the Zadie sweater. They are helping me. I had to rip out as I didn’t think I was doing the yoke correctly. I am now trying to follow the directions you have in the help sections of your posts. Is there a place where I can read all your posts on Zadie?

From: KarenfromOhio
replied
September 11, 2017
9:04 PM
no profile pic
Sent at 7:51 PM September 11, 2017
Hi Kerrie,
I’m sorry to bother you again, but I am stuck yet again. I’m following the chart for the cables, as I really don’t understand what the written directions are saying. I’ve done the entire charts once. Now do I go back and start with row 1 again, which is part of the set up section? My thought is that I start with row 9, but I could be mistaken.
Thank you for taking the time to answer all our questions. It is so appreciated!
Karen

Zadie sweater KAL
Sent at 11:45 PM July 29, 2017
Just wanted to thank you for all of your links in your project page. You helped me to make decisions about sizing and shaping. How generous of you to take the time to help out newer knitters. I loved the story about your husband surprising you by ordering wool and entering you in the Off Our Needles kal!
Hope you are enjoying the summer.
Leslie
Hamilton, Ontario, Canada

re: Zadie sweater
Sent at 5:03 PM August 4, 2017
Kerrie,
Thank you sooo much for that explanation! I was able to continue with absolutely no problems,until now. I am up to the set-up rnd for the cables. I do know how to do cables, but the chart has me baffled. For the solid gray squares, am I knitting those? The key really doesn’t show what to do. I am feeling really stupid at this point. Sorry. Could you possibly help again? I don’t know what we’d all do without you!
Karen

From: heyKerrianne
re: Zadie sweater
Sent at 12:31 PM August 4, 2017
Karen,

The pattern mentions to place 16 stitches on hold and to place 62 stitches on hold. The 16 st can be bound off or placed on heavy thread for seaming edges together later.
The 62 stitches on the outer circumference of your sleeve will be transferred onto the 22” body cable when you’re ready to join. You can transfer them onto thread or what I do is transfer them onto a short spare cable or leave them on the cable you knitted them on if you have an extra for the other sleeve. Then you can simply attach a needle tip to join and knit them onto the body cable. When joining you hold the body cable in your right hand and the sleeve cable w 62 stitches in your left hand and knit the sleeve stitches onto the body cable.

Best,
Kerrie

From: jimmersgal
Re: Ravelry message: re: Zadie Sweater
Sent at 12:52 AM August 17, 2017
You are a rock star! Thank you! I hope my sweater will turn out as nice! Thank you! You have savex my brain so I will sleep tonight!
Bless you!

From: Melvena
replied
August 14, 2017
6:40 AM
Sent at 6:58 PM August 12, 2017
Hi there I was wondering if you can clear up something for me on the Zadie sweater.
Body
Work one round in St st and est cable pattern. I’m not sure what this means.
Do I work knit when I am at cable part work row two?
For the shaping round
Rep shaping rnd every 2nd rnd.
Do I knit two rounds, then work dec rnd ?
Thanks for any help. Sorry for the silly questions.
Bobbi

From: Les268
replied
July 29, 2017
7:46 PM
Sent at 3:34 PM July 29, 2017
Hi Kerrianne! Finally ready to start sleeves and watched the helical spiral videos you recommended. Naturally I have another question! lol Haven’t decided if I’m going to use dpns or a circular and would like to know when to add the second ball of yarn. Do I add the second ball immediately after casting on as I am joining in the round? I like the idea of not having to slip the three stitches each time when using dpns but prefer knitting on a circular.
Hope your weekend is better weather-wise than here in Maryland; lots of rain and actually chilly outside. Too bad my Zadie isn’t finished yet! smirk

From Wanda:
Zadie Knit along sweater
Sent at 7:47 PM December 7, 2018
I have been trying to get someone to help me but cannot get a clear answer to my question. I even sent a message to the designer but she did not answer me either.
I am in the raglan cabling part and have done the first make 1 row. The second row shows for the 8 stitch pattern shows 4 purls and 4 knits which is a garter stitch. Am I supposed to actually do a garter stitch as a faux cable in these 8 stitches then on the 3rd row do an actual knit cable with the decrease stitches and knit the rest except for the two purl stitches? Then the 9th and 17th rows is a regular cable that is left and right?
If this is not correct would you please let me know so I can finish my sweater. You seem to have given clearer answers to the posts that others. I have done cables but this is my first sweater and I have not used a chart like this previously.
Thank you,
Wanda

From: heyKerrianne
re: Zadie Sweater
Sent at 9:43 PM August 16, 2017
Lynn,

On the yoke section you just finished the short rows or 6 knit rows. Then you do the set up row for cables. You relocated the contrast/beginning of row marker 5 stitches early. You have a 12 st cable section enclosed by markers comprised of adding a couple of M1s to prepare for an 8 st cable with P2 on each end. The next row will be row 2 on the cable section. On row 2 is where the instructions have you P4, K4 on the cable section (left leaning) at the back of the left shoulder. Outside the cable section marker you knit around the left sleeve then K4,P4 (right lean cable at front of sleeve. Knit across front and do mirror image left lean cable on front of right sleeve and right lean cable at back of right sleeve. Then knit across back to contrast BOR marker.

The way the designer wrote instructions result in cables that twist outward from center. The test knitter for the pattern’s photos shows cables that twist inward. But on the projects Ravelry page the designer later inserted a shoulder close up of a another sweater in a different color that shows the cables twisting outward like she wrote in the pattern. Take a look at the Ravelry project page and see if you want your cables to twist inward or outward. Both look nice. Just keep it mirrored.

First raglan decrease occurs on row 3 of cable chart. Decreases occur every 2 rows so you’ll notice you decrease Everytime you knit all 8 cable stitches. Cable crossovers occur when you’re knitting the 8 cable stitches. An experienced Knitter mentioned in another blog regarding cabled raglans to adjust so raglan decreases will also occur on cable crossover rows
This pattern does this. Another neat observation with this cable being half garter stitch is that, after you have four purl ridges, you know your ready to do the cable crossover on the next row.

Warm regards,
Kerrie

From Bobbi:
Sent at 4:58 PM August 24, 2017
Hi there,
Thank you so so much this was awesome!
I am sorry for my lack of replaying back to you until now.
Thank you again, I hop you have a wonderful day.
Bobbi

From: heyKerrianne
re:
Sent at 6:40 AM August 14, 2017
Melvena,

Work one round in stockinette stitch and established cable pattern. The established cable pattern is the 12 stitches inside the markers which include the 8 cable stitches you’re following the cable chart, plus P2 on either end.

First row on cable chart was the set up row where you M1 to increase the stitch count between markers from 10 st. to 12 st.
Inside the cable markers, you always begin and end w P2.
You knit (Stockinette St) all stitches outside cable markers.

Second row on cable chart you begin and end with P2 but half of the 8 cable st. you purl.
Outside the cable pattern markers you still knit straight (no raglan decrease yet).

Third row of cable chart is where you start the raglan decreases (shaping) outside the cable pattern markers.
Inside the markers you begin and end w P2 and all central 8 cable stitches are knit.

The central 8 cable stitches you are alternating between knitting all eight and purling half of the eight to make the garter stitch cable. After your fourth ridge of purl stitches, the next row you will do the cable crossover as you knit the central eight cable stitches.

Raglan shaping every second row means you’re decreasing outside the cable markers every other row. You’ll notice the decreases will occur every row where you are knitting the eight central cable stitches. An expert knitter mentioned, on another raglan cable sweater, that you want your raglan decreases to alternate rows such that the decreases will also occur on the rows you do the cable crossover. This pattern also abides that tip.

Let me know if you need any additional help or if my explanation isn’t clear.

Best,
Kerrie

re: Zadie Sweater again……
Sent at 10:43 PM August 26, 2017
I have another question:

From Lynn:
While knitting the cables, do o do decreases when i knit the actual cable?
I completely understand every other row there is a decrease does it include when im cabling that round?
Thank you ahead of time!

From: heyKerrianne
re: Zadie Sweater
Sent at 9:43 PM August 16, 2017
Lynn,

On the yoke section you just finished the short rows or 6 knit rows. Then you do the set up row for cables. You relocated the contrast/beginning of row marker 5 stitches early. You have a 12 st cable section enclosed by markers comprised of adding a couple of M1s to prepare for an 8 st cable with P2 on each end. The next row will be row 2 on the cable section. On row 2 is where the instructions have you P4, K4 on the cable section (left leaning) at the back of the left shoulder. Outside the cable section marker you knit around the left sleeve then K4,P4 (right lean cable at front of sleeve. Knit across front and do mirror image left lean cable on front of right sleeve and right lean cable at back of right sleeve. Then knit across back to contrast BOR marker.

The way the designer wrote instructions result in cables that twist outward from center. The test knitter for the pattern’s photos shows cables that twist inward. But on the projects Ravelry page the designer later inserted a shoulder close up of a another sweater in a different color that shows the cables twisting outward like she wrote in the pattern. Take a look at the Ravelry project page and see if you want your cables to twist inward or outward. Both look nice. Just keep it mirrored.

First raglan decrease occurs on row 3 of cable chart. Decreases occur every 2 rows so you’ll notice you decrease Everytime you knit all 8 cable stitches. Cable crossovers occur when you’re knitting the 8 cable stitches. An experienced Knitter mentioned in another blog regarding cabled raglans to adjust so raglan decreases will also occur on cable crossover rows
This pattern does this. Another neat observation with this cable being half garter stitch is that, after you have four purl ridges, you know your ready to do the cable crossover on the next row.

Warm regards,
Kerrie

From Lynn:
re: Zadie Sweater again……
Sent at 11:21 PM August 26, 2017
Thank you! Im such a dork! I don’t want to rip out 10 rows! So i may need to doyble up a couple of rounds or knit extra rounds! I need to reduce 16 stitches persevere I will make it work! Ive learned from my mistakes! You are a Godsend!

From: heyKerrianne
re: Zadie Sweater again……
Sent at 10:58 PM August 26, 2017
Yes, you’re decreasing on the same rows that you’re working the odd rows of the cable chart so you will be on a decrease row as you work the 9th row of the cable crossover.

Good to still hear from the Zadie KAL. Miss everyone--it was a great group!

Best,
Kerrie

re: Zadie sweater
Sent at 9:30 PM August 27, 2017
I cannot thank you enough for making this clear for me. You are such a sweetheart and I am truly grateful.

From: heyKerrianne
re: Zadie sweater
Sent at 3:51 PM August 27, 2017
When you join the sleeves, your at the back of your sweater. You can slip your sleeve stitches onto your 24” body cable first and then knit them or I just knit the sleeves stitches onto the body cable as follows: Hold needle w the the body stitches you in your right hand and the needle w the left sleeve stitches in your left hand. You can use your working yarn that’s attached to the body or attach a new yarn and knit the sleeve stitches onto your 24” body cable. Then knit across the front, knit the right sleeves stitches onto the 24” cable, knit across the back and add the contrast marker to mark the temporary beginning of row.

Short rows: I’d strongly suggest the German Short Rows I stead of W&T. They are structurally better w fabric being more even in thickness at the turning point and blends in better. Very Pink has a nice video. I have many tutorial links on my project page.
But if you are also curious about W&T and various ways to pick them up, Crafts has a free class on W&T on their website.
When ready to begin your short rows you begin at your contrast marker at the back of the sweater, knit around the left sleeve and knit a short way onto the front of the sweater 15 stitches in from the front sleeve marker. Then do the hoisted German Row turn or the W&T. You’re now facing the wrong side and will purl back around left sleeve, across the back, around right sleeve and 15 stitches onto the front of the sweater. That’s one set of short rows. Do the short row turn (facing right side of fabric) and knit around R sleeve, across back, Left sleeve, and 10 stitches this time onto the front section. Co tinue until you’ve done three sets making three turns on both side. Knit complete round picking up the doubled turning stitches as you come to them. Video shows this well.

Cable section: you will stop 5 stitches before end of row marker and relocate the contrast marker. After your cable set up row where you M1 twice, the cable markers will have 12 stitches between them: the 8 cable stitches and purl 2 at either end just inside the markers. You will P2 every row before and after the 8 cable stitches shown on the chart. Outside the cable markers you Stockinette St. On second row of cable and every even row you purl half the eight cable stitches. On odd rows you knit the eight cable stitches. You start the raglan decreases outside the cable markers when you are working the third cable row on the cable chart inside the markers. You will continue will a decrease row every two rows so the decrease rows are always when you are working an odd row on the cable chart which is also when you are knitting the 8 cable stitches including the cable crossover on the nineth row. A nice thing about the cables being half garter stitch is that it makes it easier to read your knitting: after you make the fourth purl ridge on the garter stitch you know the next row you’ll be ready for the cable crossover.

Hope this makes sense. I’m away from my computer for a couple if days and typing on my cell phone.

Best,
Kerrie

re: Zadie question
Sent at 5:47 PM September 5, 2017
Thanks so much for the info on decreases. My next question is on the page that has the written cable rows…. at the end of ROUND 24 it says to REP RNDS 9-24. If that is true it then says. WORK ONE RND IN EST ST ST AND CABLE PATTERN. The next row AFTER 24 would be what row????? Thank goodness for your expertise. I guess my main question is the REP RNDS 9-24 ???

From: heyKerrianne
re: Zadie question
Sent at 1:32 PM September 5, 2017
You’ve been doing raglan decreases every other row and the decrease rows coincide with the odd number rows of the cable chart. So when you finally get to 100 stitches left on the needles for the neck, you are at row 23 on the cable chart. You are correct about being done w raglan decreases at this point. The instructions have you work one round of stockinette st outside the cable markers and the est.cable pattern (row 24 where half the 8 cable stitches are purl) w P2 on either end as you’ve been doing.

Next row (neck shaping in garter stitch) Purl this row following the purl decreases as written to decrease eight stitches so you now have 92 St on needles. Alternate the next four rows between knit row and purl row, ending on a purl row to give you a garter st neck with three purl ridges. Then bind off loosely.

Warm wishes!
Kerrie

Your sweater is gorgeous too. And your tension is perfect. I am amazed and inspired by what you’ve accomplished and hope your Summer Solstice will bring you new joy and be a symbol of long and happy days of knitting ahead.

And I, like most of us, owe a HUGE debt of thanks to heyKerrianne. Her suggestions and encouragement kept me going through the many rip outs and made me refuse to settle for “meh good enough.”

From beac:
Gorgeous!
Ok professor, I have another question… :-) I am nearing the end of my first garter stitch cuff (and WOW have I been spoiled by 9‘“circulars-- Magic Loop feels so glacial now!) and wondered how you dealt with “ending with a purl row.” I am going to end up needing to knit more than 39 rows to get the full 4” cuff (which I want) but am looking ahead to…
1) whether you just end last purl round wherever it ends in the helical order and make that the new beginning of round (and immediately start sleeve stockinette)
OR
2) do you keep purling to the true end of round and start the main sleeve there
OR
3) do you slip the next 3 stitches as if you were going to begin a knit spiral and THEN just knit to wherever the true beginning of round is and start the main sleeve?
I admit it-- you have become my knitting crutch/crush. Help me, Obi Wan Kerrianne, you are my only hope! ;-)

over 2 years ago
OFF OUR NEEDLES: SWEET SUMMER KAL

See heyKerrianne’s posts for some really helpful ways to deal with alternating skeins using the Helical Spiral:
http://www.ravelry.com/people/heyKerrianne/threads?topic_…
https://www.masondixonknitting.com/the-helical-lifestyle/ (This explains the Helical, but I encourage you to read heyKerianne’s posts too. She’s got some clever ideas on how to manage it and has already posted some pics.)

over 3 years ago
OFF OUR NEEDLES: SWEET SUMMER KAL

First two hanks (colorway Moonlight) skeined up using heyKerrianne’s Method.

Zadie question
Sent at 12:24 PM September 5, 2017
Your answers and notes have been so very helpful to me. I have one more question. I have completed the cable sections rows 1-24. I see that I repeat rows 9-24 again. I have 100 neck stitches as written. I am assuming I will NOT continue decreasing as I did for the first 1-24 rows. Thanks again. Maybe you should test knit patterns for Craftsy!wink

Zadie sweater
Sent at 12:48 PM August 27, 2017
Kerrianne, You have been so incredibly patient and kind in answering quesitons about this KAL. Can you help me? When I add the sleeves, do I start a new ball of yarn? I’m not sure how to join the round…also, why do we place markers two stitches before and two stitches after the 8 cable stitches? Do I purl those two stitches before and after the cable stitches every row? or only purl them every other row? I have completely ripped out the entire rows that I tried with the w & t and am back to adding the sleeves to the body again. I am SO frustrated and would really love your help..

From Karen:
Sent at 7:23 PM September 11, 2017
Hi Kerrie,
I’m sorry to bother you again, but I am stuck yet again. I’m following the chart for the cables, as I really don’t understand what the written directions are saying. I’ve done the entire charts once. Now do I go back and start with row 1 again, which is part of the set up section? My thought is that I start with row 9, but I could be mistaken.
Thank you for taking the time to answer all our questions. It is so appreciated!
Karen

Zadie
Sent at 7:02 PM September 1, 2018
I have been reading your post on the Zadie sweater. They are helping me. I had to rip out as I didn’t think I was doing the yoke correctly. I am now trying to follow the directions you have in the help sections of your posts. Is there a place where I can read all your posts on Zadie?

re:
Sent at 5:20 PM September 12, 2017
Hi Kerrie,
Thanks for the help with that cable section. I don’t know why she didn’t just write that we repeat rows such and such of the chart.

I don’t know what a PawPaw festival is, but I went to that wool festival a couple years ago. It was fairly large and pretty well attended. I’d like to go again this year, but we are going to the Springfield Extravaganza (antique show) and it’s too much to do in one day. (Ask me how I know!) It’s at least a 4 hour drive from here.
Have a great time camping! Thanks again for all your help.
Karen

From: heyKerrianne
re:
Sent at 9:04 PM September 11, 2017
Hey Karen!

If you finished the chart ending on row 24, you’re right that you will start repeating the chart at row 9. If you look at your work you have just finished four purl ridges on half the cable and are ready for the cable crossover row (row 9) after which you will garter stitch on the other half of the cable until you have four purl ridges again. Fun pattern! The sweater is a joy to wear.

Headed to Ohio this Friday. I’ll be tent camping two night at the PawPaw Festival. But I just learned Young’s Dairy near Dayton is hosting their ~22nd Wool Festival this same weekend. I hope to attend this next year!

Best,
Kerrie

To minimize holes when picking up w&t purl stitch, you could knit the wrap with the stitch as knit 2 tog through the back loop.
Another w&t is the twin stitch or shadow stitch w&t where you form twin stitches coming out of the mother stitch. Then, the row where you normally pick up the wraps, you simply treat the twin stitches as one.
Crafty has a free tutorial of various w&t.

I heard one Knitter decided she’d close up the holes from the purl w&t after the fact by latching down to free the wrap, then latching down the adjacent column to pick up the wrap.

The short rows are in a prominent place in the sweater and I like the appearance of the German Short Rows on both sides of the fabric. If I’m working with durable yarn, I often re-knit sections. I’m usually pleasantly pleased the second time through. First time is for learning, the second time is for joy.

11 months ago
Zadie pattern minor changes

Yes, that is correct--you begin the raglan decreases as your working row 3 on the cable chart which is when you are knitting the eight stitches for the garter st. cable. You’ll continue decreasing every other row so you are always decreasing on the same rows that you knit for the garter stitch. But every row you still purl the two stitches that sandwich the eight cable stitches just inside the markers. So,on the decrease rows, you are knitting all the way around except for those two purl stitches just inside the markers.

11 months ago
Zadie pattern minor changes

Elana, thank you for the kind words. I like trying to figure out patterns and new techniques. Knitting becomes addicting with all the experimenting, trying, and retrying. I really would love to learn how to be a editor in knitting-- so intriguing how phrases and words are interpreted. I am also more visual but would love to learn how to explain things so others could understand. Editors and designers are amazing.
Have a wonderful Christmas!

11 months ago
Zadie pattern minor changes

Julie,
Yes, you work the chart right to left starting at the bottom right corner of chart.
Set up row: (you’ve already placed your contrasting marker 5 stiches before the old contrast marker location) you are ready to work the set of row of your first cable section at the back of your left shoulder: after contrast marker, purl 2; (now follow row 1 on Left Leaning Cable chart and remove old contrast marker as you come to it) knit 2, make 1, knit 2, make 1, knit 2; purl 2, place marker. Knit around to the front of the sleeve stopping 5 stitches before the next marker.

Next, you work the set up for your second cable at the front of your left sleeve: Place marker, purl 2, work row 1 of the Right Leaning Cable, Chart, purl 2, place marker. Knit across front of sweater stopping 5 stitches before next marker.

You are now at the front of your right sleeve and ready to set up your third cable section. Repeat set up using the Left Cable chart.
Knit around the sleeve and set up your fourth cable section with Right Cable chart.
Knit across back to Beginning of Round contrast marker.

Slide marker to left needle, P2, work second row of chart on the next 8 stitches, P2, slide maker…. and continue on.

Your raglan decreases occur as you work the odd rows of the charts starting on row 3. The raglan decreases are worked outside the markers in the Stockinette Stitch section and lean away from the cable region.

14 months ago
Zadie pattern minor changes

Hi Julie,
The set up usually is a row done just once to place the purl and knit stitches in a certain order before beginning the cable chart. In this pattern the set up is a block consisting of rows 1-8 and colored grey to distinguish it from the rest of the cable chart. After you work row eight, you continue on with rows 9-24. When you finish row 24, you repeat the cable section working rows 9-24 again (skipping the set up rows of 1-8).

Two purl stitches are done before and after the eight stitches shown on the cable charts. This makes the 12 stitches sandwiched in-between the stitch markers.

Kerrie

14 months ago
Zadie pattern minor changes

Judy and Morning Dove, I just noticed your questions. I was in the KAL and more active in posting in both forum groups (Grocery Girls and OON) during July and August and answered 24 private messages re the Zadie Sweater. This is from one of my posts I made to the other group and I think it might answer some questions after joining where the pattern has you relocate the contrast marker, which is the beginning-of-round marker, five stitches earlier.

I loved knitting this sweater. It is very cleverly designed in how the cabling rhythm or repeats meshes with the repeats of the raglan decrease rows. The garter stich leg of the cable makes it easy to read your knitting and know where you’re at.

I’ll try to help if you have any additional questions. I’ve posted in both groups and have linked tutorial videos that I thought might help w this sweater on my project page.

The following is copied from one of my old postings in the other group GG:
re: Zadie sweater
Sent at 3:51 PM Today
When you join the sleeves, your at the back of your sweater. You can slip your sleeve stitches onto your 24” body cable first and then knit them or I just knit the sleeves stitches onto the body cable as follows: Hold needle w the the body stitches you in your right hand and the needle w the left sleeve stitches in your left hand. You can use your working yarn that’s attached to the body or attach a new yarn and knit the sleeve stitches onto your 24” body cable. Then knit across the front, knit the right sleeves stitches onto the 24” cable, knit across the back and add the contrast marker to mark the temporary beginning of row.

Short rows: I’d strongly suggest the German Short Rows I stead of W&T. They are structurally better w fabric being more even in thickness at the turning point and blends in better. Very Pink has a nice video. I have many tutorial links on my project page.
But if you are also curious about W&T and various ways to pick them up, Crafts has a free class on W&T on their website.
When ready to begin your short rows you begin at your contrast marker at the back of the sweater, knit around the left sleeve and knit a short way onto the front of the sweater 15 stitches in from the front sleeve marker. Then do the hoisted German Row turn or the W&T. You’re now facing the wrong side and will purl back around left sleeve, across the back, around right sleeve and 15 stitches onto the front of the sweater. That’s one set of short rows. Do the short row turn (facing right side of fabric) and knit around R sleeve, across back, Left sleeve, and 10 stitches this time onto the front section. Co tinue until you’ve done three sets making three turns on both side. Knit complete round picking up the doubled turning stitches as you come to them. Video shows this well.

Cable section: you will stop 5 stitches before end of row marker and relocate the contrast marker. This will have the cable section straddling where the markers used to be. After your cable set up row where you M1 twice, the cable markers will have 12 stitches between them: the 8 cable stitches and purl 2 at either end just inside the markers. Just inside the cable markers, you will P2 every row before and after the 8 cable stitches shown on the chart. Outside the cable markers you Stockinette St. On second row of cable and every even row you purl half the eight cable stitches. On odd rows you knit the eight cable stitches. You start the raglan decreases outside the cable markers when you are working the third cable row on the cable chart inside the markers. You will continue will a decrease row every two rows so the decrease rows are always when you are working an odd row on the cable chart which is also when you are knitting the 8 cable stitches including the cable crossover on the nineth row. A nice thing about the cables being half garter stitch is that it makes it easier to read your knitting: after you make the fourth purl ridge on the garter stitch you know the next row you’ll be ready for the cable crossover.

Hope this makes sense. I’m away from my computer for a couple if days and typing on my cell phone.

Best,
Kerrie

14 months ago
Zadie pattern minor changes

You want about 2.5-3” of stitches to set aside. You can use your gauge to determine how many stitches this is.

Or you can use Elizabeth Zimmerman’s percentage system and take the total number of body stitches and multiply this by .08.

Whatever number you set aside for under the arms you want the number of stitches on the body and sleeve to match up.

16 months ago
Zadie pattern minor changes

Great catch and you have enough experience to follow your knitter’s intuition!

16 months ago
Zadie pattern minor changes

Photos show inward leaning cables instead of outward leaning cables as pattern instructs under Yoke directions.
heyKerrianne posted about 21 hours ago,
in reply to vernkettle’s post #22
Favorite this post1 reply:

The row by row instructions describing the chart is different than the K4, P4 order shown in the chart diagram. Rounds 2,4,6,&8 on Right Leaning cable should read K4, P4. If you follow the chart diagram the cables will mirror each other.
I like mirrored cables to lean away from center so I follow the directions as written under Yoke section, beginning the set up round behind left shoulder w Left Leaning Cable. Then after working left sleeve stitches and you’re at the front of sweater near left shoulder use Right Leaning Cable, and use Left Leaning at other side of front. This is same as pattern’s written instructions but different from pattern’s photos

The garter stitch on half the cable made it easy to read my knitting and keep track of where I was. After the fourth purl ridge I knew I was ready for the cable crossover.

16 months ago
OON- ZADIE FO’S

Beautiful sweater and looks like a wonderful fit through the shoulders!

16 months ago
OFF OUR NEEDLES: SWEET SUMMER KAL

Yes, I think my dad has a pretty good loyal team-- he’s at the hospital he’d worked at since the sixties.

My son’s being very understanding and didn’t express any disappointment out loud. We quickly planned a special trip for him before his classes start up. Tomorrow, we drive out to Maine to tent camp on the coast, see Acadia S.P., Bike on Chebeague Is, and to attend a woodworkers festival for my oldest son. He is passionate about woodworking. He made me some nostepinnes to wind yarn with and I posted a picture of them and some pens he lathed on my project page.

And I’m packing two knitting WIPs for the trip. I’m taking a special task light, hoping to be able to knit in the evenings.

16 months ago
OFF OUR NEEDLES: SWEET SUMMER KAL

Lori, your sweater is gorgeous and fits perfectly! That was my favorite color among the selections. Your stitches show remarkable skills and even tension and then to hear your backstory of what you went through just five years ago. Incredible. I love the journey knitting provides.

A week ago today, my father had his first stroke and we are still waiting for further tests to understand how to proceed forward. He is an 80 y.o. retired surgeon but is very athletic and has an amazing authoritative voice perfect for read alouds. He was getting ready to fly to London that afternoon to take my 15 y.o. son on his first European trip.

16 months ago
SUMMER SWEATER KNIT ALONG 2017

Does your daughter and Son-in-law like biking? There’s a very fun autobiography from the UK that I downloaded onto my Kindle called Life in Tandem by Jackie Winter. It starts when they were a young couple from London taking tandem rides to various countryside places. It also includes some history of now vintage tandems and clothing. Fun read.

16 months ago
Zadie pattern minor changes

You want about 2.5-3” of stitches to set aside. You can use your gauge to determine how many stitches this is.

Or you can use Elizabeth Zimmerman’s percentage system and take the total number of body stitches and multiply this by .08.

Whatever number you set aside for under the arms you want the number of stitches on the body and sleeve to match up.

16 months ago
OON- ZADIE FO’S

Love the color--it’s like a peacock blue.

Crafts has a class called Short Rows 101 by Carol Feller. She does an excellent job showing you various ways of picking up the wraps and how their look so you can compare. She demonstrates different places you can apply short rows to shape your knitting. The online class is free.

My very favorite short row is the German Short Row. It blends in better and keeps a more even thickness at the turning point. Plus I find it easier to implement and easier to remember the process. Very Pick has a good video on German Short Rows.

16 months ago
OFF OUR NEEDLES: SWEET SUMMER KAL

After you have finished your 6th W&T on your short rows, you just made your 6th turn and ready to knit on the right side and are located at the front near your right sleeve. You’re going to finish this round by knitting toward your right sleeve. Continue knitting around the right sleeve, across the back the your Beginning of Round marker. Now you’re ready to knit the full round you’re asking about. Slip marker, knit around left sleeve to the front of your sweater. Five stitches in from the left sleeve you’ll come across the first of your wrapped stitches that has a band across the base of the stitch. With the tip of your right needle, lift the band onto your left needle and knit this wrap with the stitch like you would a K2tog. That’s how you pick up a wrap. Continue knitting and do this for the next two wrapped stitches. Then knit on across the front if your sweater the three W&T stitches on the other side. Then continue around sleeve and back to finish the round.

16 months ago
The Cable Knitter’s Guide

I now have a set of three. Before they arrived I used my 4” long small wooden crochet hook, meant for laddering up knit stitches, as a cable needle.

16 months ago
SUMMER SWEATER KNIT ALONG 2017

Harry and Snowman is a wonderful documentary currently in Netflix about Harry deLeyer. It includes background history of him being a boy in the Netherlands during WWII being part of the underground to help Jews and soldiers​. After the war he and his wife came to the US and taught riding at a girl’s school on Long Island. They started their own horse farm and raised their family. The quality of the photos and family film footage from the 50s and 60s is great.

16 months ago
SUMMER SWEATER KNIT ALONG 2017

I’m making a Gansey sweater with Brooklyn Tweed yarn. The pattern is from the book Norwegian Sweater Techniques. https://www.amazon.com/Norwegian-Sweater-Techniques-Today…
I made a Fair Isle sweater designed by VÉRONIK AVERY this past February with Brooklyn Tweed. My husband came up with the idea of knitting sweaters for our sons using one of the contrast colors in my sweater for each of theirs. So this gansey is using BT ember color.

So far the different designs this gansey includes are garter stitch ribbing, garter stitch vertical stripe, arrow band, and cable.

I’ve done crochet steek cardigans and German short rows but the new techniques I’m trying with this project are sloped bindoffs at neck, short row shaping after binding off at back of neck, steeking the sleeve openings and picking up the stitches for the sleeves.

Question:
The pattern instructs one to machine stitch the steeks but I want to hand stitch or crochet them. I currently have a column of purl stitches (4 stitches wide) of where I plan to steek. Do anyone have any comments of how the armhole might be different than the the steeking for a cardigan?

The contrast marker is marking the beginning of the round.
Initially you placed them when you joined the sleeves, but when you do the setup round you will relocate them by 5 stitches to their new location.

At their new location, the contrasting/beginning of round marker is on the backside of the sweater near left sleeve. After the setup round, where you M1 stitches, the next marker will be 12 stitches away to sandwich the 8st cable w P2 on either side of cable. Then you’ll have another pair of markers at the front of the sleeve.

When you start the raglan decreases they will be outside the markers, using symmetrical K2 tog before the cable section and after the cable section use SSK. This leans the decreases away from the cable section to make them more prominent as a design feature typical of raglan decreases.

16 months ago
SUMMER SWEATER KNIT ALONG 2017

Guernsey Sweater
The photo with the tandem bike was taken during the yarn trip. This past weekend, on my birthday, we took a long distance bike ride to buy enough yarn to make the first one of these Guernsey sweaters that two of my three boys have been asking for. It was the only shop in the state that carried the yarn. There’s eight skeins in that rear bike bag!

16 months ago
OFF OUR NEEDLES: SWEET SUMMER KAL

To help remember whether to hold the cable to the front or to the back of your work, if you want the cable to lean to the Right hold the cable needle to the Rear.

16 months ago
OFF OUR NEEDLES: SWEET SUMMER KAL

I think it helps when you come to the cable crossover row to stop and imagine where the needles are at as if you’re viewing the sweater and then see which way you want the cable to lean at that location. It is easier when you’re actually doing it than reading about it. The sweater turns out very easy to knit without the pattern in front of you. And, with the garter stitches in half of the cable, it is easy to read your knitting and know what row you’re on. It turns out to be a fun easy project to travel with.
You have 4 purl ridges between the cable crossovers.
The crossovers are done on knit row of garter stitch.
The raglan decreases are also done on the knit rows of the garter stitch. This will ensure that the raglan decrease will also occur on the cable crossover row as a master knitter suggested, but I haven’t investigated why this is so.
Also the raglan decreases lean away from the cable section so as you approach any cable you do a K2tog and as you leave any cable you do the SSK. For the loops to lie more smoothly on the SSK, slip the second stitch purlwise. Instructions are on the internet under keyword “better SSK”.

16 months ago
OFF OUR NEEDLES: SWEET SUMMER KAL

Compared to your row gauge, the actual sweater will grow in length as the weight of the amount of material pulls down on it. So I stopped the length of my sleeve about a half inch short of where I wanted the sleeve length to end up.

As an aside: a master hand knitter mentioned to monitor even tension of the horizontal bars between stitches formed by checking for any “guttering” between the purl bumps on the wrong side. This is caused by how the consistently spaced the stitches come off the left needle. This also affects how much a garment grows and this varies between different Knitters. Interesting.

Edit: good point, Tracie. Natural wool has good stretch memory and this little bit of lengthening is definitely not the overstretching horror stories I’ve heard that might happen with superwash wool or other fibers. It is just a little lengthening I didn’t even notice until another knit designer pointed out how the knit fabric behaves in a larger project like the sleeve or sweater body compared to the smaller swatch sample. And part of the reason they’re not as concerned about meeting row gauge if you’re close, because the gravity effect can vary by the size you knit and you can always accommodate by adjusting the number of rows you knit.

16 months ago
SWEET SUMMER KNIT ALONG

Go ahead with the size 8 that you like the knitted fabric. Most people reported the sweater seemed larger than they expected. Knit a sleeve first and see what gauge you’re getting with it. Then you can better choose what size you want to cast on for the hip and shoulder areas.

16 months ago
We Are Knitters - Sweater Kit Giveaway!

A men’s outdoor magazine was describing the comfort of hand knitted wool socks for skiing and hiking. This inspired me to learn to knit last year and I made hiking boot socks for my three sons and husband. This February I made my first sweater. It was a Fair Isle. Then I made two cardigans with steeking using Plötulopi wool. Knitted a cabled sweater. Now working on a Gansey for a son. Sweater knitting is incorporating so many new techniques in every project. It seems exciting and addictive. Also exploring and learning about new wool yarns this year.

16 months ago
OFF OUR NEEDLES: SWEET SUMMER KAL

If you haven’t knitted your sleeves yet, you might consider knitting in a helical spiral. You can use it for garter stitch and it will eliminate the vertical seam you’d normally get when knitting garter stitch in the round. Especially nice to eliminate that seam w 4” garter stitch cuff. And you can continue the spiral to alternate skeins every row without having the column of twisted stitches on the inside. And it was fun, too!
There’s two videos in this link showing the Helical Spiral w just two skeins and its use w garter stitch.
https://www.masondixonknitting.com/the-helical-lifestyle/
Since I’m not working w high contrast colors, I wound one skein in the sphere shape and the other skein in the cake shape to help. And, while doing the garter stitch, the working yarn from the sphere will remind me I’m purling. When I pick up the working yarn from the cylinder cake of yarn I’ll be knitting.

16 months ago
OON Knit Therapy

Very neat application for the provisional cast on!
I love both of the sock patterns especially the cable and how the cable transitions to the heel.

16 months ago
OFF OUR NEEDLES: SWEET SUMMER KAL

I tried out several stretchy bindoffs this spring and referenced their videos on my Fair Isle Sweater project on my project page. Some videos I chose because they compared and contrasted several bind offs.
I don’t know if they would be helpful or interesting to others researching bind offs.

16 months ago
OFF OUR NEEDLES: SWEET SUMMER KAL

Thanks for the link to the video and your experiences with the 9” needles. ChiaoGoo are my main set in interchangeable. I like the needle tips and also the more tapered shape where the needle transitions to the cable--the stitches slide more easily from the cable onto the left needle. With your high review of ChiaoGoo in the 9”, I’ve added it to my Amazon wish list.

16 months ago
OFF OUR NEEDLES: SWEET SUMMER KAL

I would love to try 9” circulars!
What brand(s) have you tried? Do you have both sizes for the cuffs and sleeves?

16 months ago
OON- ZADIE FO’S

To try on the sweater, you can leave it on the cable. Remove one needle tip and attach an additional small length cable with a cable connector. Then fasten a safety pin through the life line holes at both ends of the cables to make sure the stitches don’t slide off.

16 months ago
SWEET SUMMER KNIT ALONG

Nancy Wynn has a nice cable tutorial. She jumps right in with little chit chat and easy to view what she is doing. She shows both left and right leaning cable.

To help remember: if you want Right leaning, hold cable needle to the Rear of your work.

It is normal to have a gap to the left of the cable crossover and it will become less noticeable over time as you wear the sweater. But someone suggested to slide the stitches that were held on the cable needle back onto the left needle before you knit them to help minimize the gap.

https://youtu.be/zFn_Glz6Cbk

16 months ago
OFF OUR NEEDLES: SWEET SUMMER KAL

I believe it was the Yarn Harlot that was being interviewed by another knitter for a book and said she frogs and re-knits every section of her sweater 2-4 times. She’s witty and fun so, at the time, I thought she was speaking in hyperbole. But now I know it often does look much better the second time through.

Going down to a size 5 on the cuffs might be a fortuitous oversight. A fellow knitter on another project mentioned that she likes to go down 3 needle sizes for the edgings. I tried it and have done that ever since. The edgings seem neater, less likely to stretch out, and cushier. See what you think.

16 months ago
OFF OUR NEEDLES: SWEET SUMMER KAL

Oh, when you knit left leaning decreases, SSK, the loops will lie flatter if you slip the second stitch purlwise.

Also the decreases for darts or waist shaping you usually want the direction to lean Toward the seam to be less prominent. Whereas the decreases on either side of the cable section you want to remember to have them lean Away from the cable. So as you approach the cable section you will K2tog, and as you leave the cable section you’ll SSK on the decrease rounds.

16 months ago
SWEET SUMMER KNIT ALONG

Also to minimize any gaps or holes when grafting with the Kitchener stitch I pick up an extra stitch on either side before and after the Kitchener stitch.

16 months ago
SWEET SUMMER KNIT ALONG

Oh, when you knit left leaning decreases, SSK, the loops will lie flatter if you slip the second stitch purlwise.

Also the decreases for darts or waist shaping you usually want the direction to lean Toward the seam to be less prominent. Whereas the decreases on either side of the cable section you want to remember to have them lean Away from the cable.

16 months ago
OFF OUR NEEDLES: SWEET SUMMER KAL

Yes, you finish the ten sets of 4th round increases, then you start the seven sets of increasing every 6th row.

16 months ago
SWEET SUMMER KNIT ALONG

The beginning of row marker is at the underarm seam. You want the 16 stitches to straddle the middle of the underarm. So knit forward 8 stitches from the BOR marker then slip the 8 stitches you just knitted and the 8 stitches that precede the BOR marker onto scrap yarn or heavy crochet thread to be grafted later. This also moves the long tail to an end of the grafting seam to help close up any holes that might show up after grafting.

I picked up the flyer about your knitting program. I would love to be a part of it. Would you please add me to your list? Thanks for doing this. I’m really looking forward to it!

16 months ago
OFF OUR NEEDLES: SWEET SUMMER KAL

Deanna, after 4” garter cuff, switch to your larger needles and knit one round. Every size will make an increase round on the next round. Then after the increase round, the counting starts over again and you count the next round as 1 as you plan to make increases every 4th round.

16 months ago
OFF OUR NEEDLES: SWEET SUMMER KAL

Af