This is the same pattern as http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/leaf-yoke-cardigan-2, and is available here.

Immediately noticed that there are some errors in the Body Lace pattern, downloaded from the Knitting Daily website, but the correction is on the Ravelry pattern page.

Hems: To simplify finishing, I used a provisional cast-on for the body and sleeves. On the 4th row after the Fold line row, I transferred the cast-on sts to another needle, then did k2togs across the row, joining the sts from the cast-on with the sts on the working needle. This saved me from sewing hems at the end!

Selvage stitches: Another selvage st was needed at the end of the RS, so I increased 1 st on the body and the sleeves. Every RS row should begin and end with a K 1, which will be used up when the button- and buttonhole bands are picked up. On the WS rows, the selvage sts are P 1.

Sleeves: From comments I saw about the sleeves, they tend to be too long, so I increased every 4th row, instead of every 6th. I was aiming for about ⅞-length sleeves, but they are closer to full-length. To join the underarm seams, I used 3-needle bind-off and used the yarn ends to close up any holes.

Bobbles: When working the bobbles, to keep them nice and pouty, strangle them! After making the bobble, hold the working yarn snug and bring it forward between the needles, then slip the remaining st back to the LH needle, wrap the yarn to the back, and slip the st back to the RH needle and continue row. Thank you, Joan Schrouder, schrouderknits!

Yoke: In most cases, adding the second selvage stitch just meant adding a K 1 at the end of a RS row and a P 1 at the start of WS rows, but the yoke needed re-calculations in a few places:

Row 21: K 1, yo, ssk, k 6, k2tog, yo, k 6, k2tog, yo; rep from and end k 1.

Row 29 (dec row): K 4, k2tog, k 3; rep from and end k2tog, k 4. (46 sts dec’d)

Row 39 (dec row): Stay on smaller needle for rest of yoke. Halfway thru the row around the 95th st, work k 3 instead of k 2. K 3, k2tog, k 2; rep from and end k2tog, k 3. (46 sts dec’d)

Row 41 (second bobble row): K 3, MB, k 3; rep from to end of row.

Row 43 (dec row): K 3, k2tog, k 1; rep from and end k2tog, k 3. (46 sts dec’d)

Row 47: K 1, p2tog, yrn; rep from and end p2tog, yo, k 2.
Note: yrn = yarn round needle. This is a yarn over used between 2 purl stitches, the yarn goes over the top of the RH needle to the back, and forward underneath the needle ready to purl the next stitch. Working this row in purl is actually easier than in knit as k2tog, yo. Try it! : )

Because I’ve had issues in the past with round yoke cardigans being too loose at the neckline, I stayed with the smaller needle from Row 39 up, and bound off with it as well so that the neckline would be firm. Usually I am the type whose bind-offs are too tight, so this was a case where it was a Good Thing. : )

Button- and Buttonhole Bands: Since there were comments that the button- and buttonhole bands were too flimsy, I decided early on to make them wider. As it turns out, the buttons I chose were wider anyway, 13/16” diameter, so the bands do need to be wider for them.

When making button- and buttonhole bands, I ignore any pattern directions and calculate them for myself. For this style of cardigan, I like the bottom button to be just above my waistline, and for these buttons I spaced them 3” inches apart, using 5 buttons total. For the buttonholes, I used the one-row buttonhole technique and made them 3 stitches long.

From Maureen Mason-Jameson I learned to use a very small needle when picking up for bands, so usually I use a US 2 (2.5 mm). Using a very small needle for this step means that the pick-up sts will be nice and small and firm. On the first row of actual knitting, switch to a needle 1.0 mm smaller than the body needle. Usually that’s 2 US needle sizes down.

For my initial attempt I picked up sts at the rate of 3 sts for 4 rows, but was not happy with it, so I ripped out and started over, picking up 1 st for 1 row, 177 sts total. I know this should be too many sts and the band should have ruffled, but it didn’t. Perhaps something to do with a garter stitch band on an eyelet fabric in stockinette. The bands were 6 garter ridges wide, after binding off on a WS row.

Summary: Overall I am very pleased with how this turned out, although I confess to preferring top-down construction. The color goes well with lemon yellow, aqua, coral, and lavender so plenty of choice for tops to wear.