Overview: Finally after lengthy lurkdom in the Knit-frocks forum, I decided to make a traditionally-styled gansey with a DK/worsted weight yarn, and settled on the Patrington & Withernsea layout in Gladys Thompson’s book. Previously I had avoided making sweaters in the round because I didn’t want all that weight in my lap towards the end, but it was time for something new.

Referring to various books, such as Gladys Thompson’s, Beth Brown-Reinsel’s Knitting Ganseys, Mary Wright’s Cornish Guernseys and Knit-frocks, I bit the bullet, did some calculations and cast on to swatch for my own interpretation. It seemed almost too easy, but I made it as best I could tell it was done, keeping copious notes.

Afterwards I could see where it was possible for an experienced knitter to know how to make a gansey without following a pattern. Kind of like the way I make socks because I always use the same basic pattern which is now engraved into my brain, with the same weight yarn.

Stitch Patterns: The stitch patterns for the yoke from left to right are:
Box St or Mary Ann’s Stitch
Left-leaning 6-st Rope cable
Ladder St
Left-leaning Rope cable
Right-leaning Rope cable
Ladder St
Right-leaning Rope cable
Box St

At the shoulders is the Rig ‘n Furrow pattern, also known as Ridge and Furrow, or Rig ‘n Fur. The tops of the sleeves have Ladder st with symmetric Rope cables in the center.

Construction: The gansey is made in the round and starts at the bottom with a k2/p2 rib for 2 ½”. Then false side seams are established with 2 purl sts at each side, and the rest of the body is knit in stockinette.

The underarm gussets start about 3” below the armholes, increasing 2 sts in each gusset every 3rd round. When the gussets are 1 ½” long, the yoke pattern is started in both front and back. When the work is up to the bottoms of the armholes, then the front and back are divided. The back is put on a separate string from the gussets which each have their own string and include the false side seam sts. The front is made first, starting the neckline about 2 ½” below the top of the shoulderline, then the back. The front and back are joined at the shoulder with 3-needle bind-off.

Each sleeve is picked up around the armhole, and the gusset and side seam sts are put back on the needle. Then the sleeve is knitted down to the cuff, decreasing 2sts every 3rd round to reverse the shaping of the gusset in the body, then decreasing to shape the sleeve.

Seamless! The only finishing to be done is to knit the neckband, then weave in any ends.

The only problem with this sweater is that I failed to take into account where the bottom line of the yoke would fall on my body – straight across the bustline! omg Well, every project is a learning experience, right?