I couldn’t get the math to work out for this pattern. If I increase at each end of every row for 30 rows, I will have increased 60 sts. This would bring me from 92 sts to 152 instead of to 124, as stated in the pattern. Every other row for 30 rows would be closer, but the designer stressed the importance of increasing every row for the drape of the sleeves.

Also, the Old Shale lace pattern requires a stitch multiple of 18, so I would need 126 sts rather than 124. Her pattern instructions don’t work out for 124 sts, even though she stresses the importance of that number.

I wrote to the designer, as she invited us to do at the end of the pattern, but received no response, so I had to go my own way.

I cast on with the yarn over version of the tubular cast on, with the H hook, per method #1 of this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gPG9O5F3ZRY&t=490s. I tried the method linked by the pattern, but had a lot of trouble executing it with this fuzzy, skinny yarn on big needles. This method worked better for me in this case, which meant I worked 1x1 rib instead of 2x2. I know I could have gotten to 2x2 by rearranging the stitches, but I just didn’t feel like dealing with that, so I went with the 1x1.

I worked per the pattern to the point of 92 sts at the top of the ribbing (after the doubling row). Then, beginning with a purl row (because the kfb row presented as the right side), increased every row for 17 rows instead of 30, to 126 sts instead of 124 (although it actually would have been 152). Then I worked 2 rows even in stockinette, for a total of 20 rows instead of 30 before beginning the lace (incl the doubling row).

I found the blocking picture in the pattern invaluable in deciding which way to go about this. It appeared that there were 7 reps across the row of the lace pattern, which meant that she must have had 126 sts instead of 124 (or 152). And the stockinette section between the cuff and the lace on one side of the picture looked like it may have been only about 20 rows instead of 30. The other side looked like more, but I figured it would look ok to be 20 – the same amount as the stockinette sections for the rest of the piece.

Here’s the summary:
CO (yo tubular, w/H hook, per method 1 of linked video): 46 sts
20 rows 1x1 rib: 46 sts
1 row kfb every stitch: 92 sts
17 rows kfb at beg & end (beg w/purl row, because the doubling row presented as the RS): 126 sts
Continue per pattern thru 7 reps of the lace section.
Work 21 rows stockinette as follows:
3 rows even stockinette
17 rows k2tog at beg & end (beg w/purl row): 92 sts
1 row k2tog every stitch (on right side): 46 sts
20 rows 1x1 rib (beg w/wrong side row)
Bind off with a tubular bind off, per this video by Brooklyn Tweed: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=183MPw2xPas.

I seamed up the sleeves through the first lace section on each side. That seemed to give it the most sweater-like drape. I pinned it further up and tried it on, but the from the front you could only see the sleeves, and the back had a cup-like shape. True, that is pretty much the classic shrug look, but I preferred it to have a more sweater-like look to it, straight across the bottom at the back, and with a little bit of sides down the front.

I definitely should have blocked it before seaming, and I would have, had I not been in a mad rush at the end. I cast off with one day remaining before my guild meeting, so it occurred to me that if I hurried, I might be able to get it done in time to wear it to the meeting. I needed to seam it first, because I wouldn’t have time to do that on the day of. And that way I could lay it out and spritz it the night before, instead of actually wet blocking it, so that it would hopefully dry in time.