A gift for my granddaughter who has green eyes!

I made the smallest size but cast on more stitches for a wider neck. (see below) I had to adjust the yoke increases and by the time I was on the second increase row I was caught up with the pattern stitch count. Because I knew I was not going to continue with the mosaic stitch past the yoke and since mosaic brings the fabric in and makes a tighter gauge, I eliminated the 4th increase and had 298 stitches at the sleeve separation. Eliminating this last increase made the body less blousey. If I had added that last increase the body would have been way too wide in the stockinette stitch. I left the option of picking up stitches around the neck for a ribbing or i-cord, but decided I preferred it as a rolled stockinette edge. It turned out just as I had imagined and I’m very happy with my modifications.

I’ve had a few people ask me for the neck mod specifics and I’m happy to share but I don’t think it will make much sense unless you have the pattern and know how to make short rows. Here’s what I remember:

I used color A throughout and did not use the pattern’s colorwork instructions for the short rows--I just used color A.

CO 128 rather tightly
K 4 rounds
Work 3 sets of short rows (I usually start my short rows right under my ear, I guess that would be mid clavicle)
K 1 round resolving short rows
Work increase round 1 (modified, but you will need to have a multiple of 4)
K 2 rounds
Work rows 1-11 of big blips
Work increase 2 (modified)
I modified my increase rounds but don’t remember the exact stitch count but I do know I was at the correct stitch count for the smallest size after the second increase row.

When you are finished with the sweater you have the option of picking up neck stitches and adding a ribbing or i-cord, but I kept it with a rolled stockinette edge.

I hope this makes sense and helps a bit!