Made with remainder stash yarn.

• The lace charts are both lovely and with my yarn, I hope to create a really delicate, but warm, wool scarf. Note: To make this pattern, one does need to read charts (that’s most of the pattern). The written instructions only describe set up and garter edge.

• The instructions are good. I feel it might be clarified that, because the 2 lace charts are of different heights, you are generally knitting 2 diff chart rows in any given row of knitting.

• At first, in addition to following the charts, I simply wrote down the chart row numbers in 2 separate batches and, as I worked each chart in one row, I crossed the relevant chart row number off. But that went sideways after I missed marking down a completed row which unbalanced where I was at and how the charts are supposed to work independently together.

• After ripping back 14 rows to correct my error, I updated my system to something less fallible. I wrote out all of the row numbers for charts A and B side by side - so I could see that, when knitting Row X from chart A, that I’m supposed to be knitting Row Y from chart B - for ex, chart A, row 1 and chart B, row 17. Of course, this mistake also produced an incorrect lace panel on one side (it’s the wider panel that I messed up). Because the lacework is tricky to discern before blocking, it’s key to read one’s knitting regularly to ensure that both charts are on track.

• IMO, the charts are very different from each other in flow - one is quite undulating (18st one) and the other is quite staccato (25st one).

• Note that every 60R the 2 charts realign (one is 12R and the other is 20R). I’ll prob end this scarf at the end of R12 on what I’m calling Chart B (the one with 25st), and the leaf motif from what I’m calling Chart A (the one with 18 st) will end mid way through. This should provide lace pattern symmetry at beginning and end of pattern.

• I wish I could say that I was having more fun knitting this because I’m pretty sure I’m going to like the finished object a lot. One of my reasons for undertaking this project is that I want to keep my brain agile and lace takes focus. It just seems to be going on, which may say more about me than it.

• As of having used 77g of yarn I have 48” of length (pre blocking. Pattern indicates that 25g of fingering yarn should = approx 15.7” of length (post-blocking I assume? - it would be nice if this were clarified). Also, I realize that the amount of yarn used is self determined but it would be nice to know what the length of the designer’s versions were, based on the yarn information provided.

• Update for reference: I used 110g of a light fingering wool (that’s quite lofty) and that got me to 72” of length and 9.25” of width. My yarn has 108y in 25g. The designer used 2 diff yarns in each of her scarves so it’s hard to translate information provided in the pattern if using a single yarn.

• I could have got away with 100g in a pinch, a shorter scarf, which given it’s width, would perhaps be better proportioned than it is at 72”. I didn’t gauge swatch, I like knitting this specific yarn with a 3.5mm needle and the stitch count of the pattern cannot easily be changed/I followed pattern as written. I probably could have hard blocked the end result to ~10” in width - which is what the pattern indicates and what I was going for (see more details on dimensions below) but I prefer not to stretch the yarn too much and my gauge is obvs smaller than instructed.

• What this pattern doesn’t tell you is the degree to which the scarf is anticipated to shrink vertically when blocked horizontally to achieve the instructed ~10” of width. (Of course, the scarf will lengthen on blocking, even after shrinking somewhat as a result of the impact of pin blocking the lace open, i.e. making the scarf wider. And yarn properties may have quite an impact on this too.) Which has me reiterating that it would have been helpful to know the blocked lengths of the samples shown.

• Based on other scarves I’ve made, I was aiming for finished length of about 68” but my yarn was very inclined to lengthen vs widen.

• In the end I had enough yarn to get 51 repeats of Chart B and 31 repeats of chart A. I ended on row 12 for each chart which balances the pattern on both ends.

Preblocked Dimensions: 62” long and 7.5”wide

Postblocked Dimensions: 72” long 9.25” wide

• Technically, I wouldn’t mind if it were an inch wider and 4 inches shorter. I can make it shorter, if I choose to, but I’m leaving it at this length - which is better for a taller person. Having said this, it’s a very lovely piece that I’m quite happy to have made.

• Cost of yarn: 107 CAN for 3 skeins. I used slightly less than half of the original yardage to make this, so it cost about 50 CAN.