Yep, that’s an error in the skirt, i’ll fix it after holidays.

Final, and beginning thoughts…
I really like the original design, but so much in the pattern does not make sense to my tailor brain. And pictures from the internet only seems to confirm my hunch that breast and pouff shoulders has weird proportions on (modern) sizes 12 and up.
This dress is for a very romantic 15 year old girl totally into science..
Counting purple rows as “one color” the sleeves are striped in 3,1,4,1,5,9,2 and a 6 on the bottom…

These are my thoughts and changes from the original pattern. Dear Met-Mari please remember to:

#find gauge with dc swatch

#Dont chain-cast-on but chainless-foundation-cast-on. Here I used singlechochet in a black thread

#Dont think about waist shaping - there is a belt.

#cast-on = chest width (make sure head and arms can pass through this loop)

#appx. 1.5 cm dc

#part loop in two (front and back). Place markers, sidesection= 0.27 x front, place markers 1 section from each side stitch (appx. side boob).

---expect holiday interrupts---

#estimate or measure distance from underbust to widest “protution”/where chestwidth measured. - divide by rowheight=increase rows. Find difference between underbust and chestwidth, divide by stitch width= increase stitches.

#use above to increase on each side of sideboob markers to get a nice v dart.

A) dc and do boob increases

#POUFF SLEEVE IS WRONG-using the following:
Pouff-diameter = 0.9 x chestwidth
jfr. bicycle sweater reengineering

Arm circ. = Circumference mid upper arm.

Shoulder-length = dist from top collarbone over shoulder to middle upper arm.

Cuff-stitches = arm circ./stitchwidth
Shoulder-chain = (2xshoulder length)/stitch width
Pouff-increases = (pouff diameter-shoulder chain)

Underarm dart= cuff-stitches/4, on each side of marker.
Outer dart= minimum(6 cm, underarm dart)

Reserved stitches = 8+2 x outer dart.
Increase stitches = shoulder chain - reserved stitches.

Divide increase stitches in 3 parts: ⅕-⅗-⅕
Divide pouff increases such that the side sections increase at 1/2 rate of the mid section (eg. side - double every 2. stitch, middle - double every stitch).

#pouff sleeve rows: shoulder-length/row height

Pouff increases and decreases should be appx 1.2-1.7 cm of rows. Gauge any less and inc/dec should be fitted over more rows.
I did A-C 3 rows, E-F 10 rows, G-I 3 rows

#dart decrease:
Each round: decrease underarm-dart and outer-dart stitches by 1.
From mid underarm: sc underarm dart stitches, sc cluster of 3, sc outer dart stitches, 2 hdc. Mirror on opposite side.

#shell description:“ in the same stitch 2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc” = 4(1).

A) from side marker: dc underarm dart stitches, make foundationless chain, fasten chain and dc underarm-dart stitches back to marker.
B) dart decrease, dc.probably not necessary.
C) dart decrease, section shoulder stitches and do pouff increases.
D) dart decreases+dc until outer dart has only 1 stitch.
E) dart: sc underarm-dart stitches, sc cluster of 3, sc 3, 2 hdc. Until 1 left of underarm dart.
F) dart: 3 sc, 2 hdc repeat as needed.
G) sc-cluster of 2 3 times, 1 hdc, dc and mirror.
H) repeat G.
I) dc - decrease until cuff-stitches.
i did 4xdouble dec. 1xtriple dec. All way round
J) cuff
i did 1 row sc, 1 row dc, 1 row dc
K) start shells - until elbow.
i did 4(1), skip 2 stitches, 2(1)
L) Increase shells
I did 10 rows 4(1)x2(1), 1 row 4(2)x2(1),
4 rows 6(2)x2(1), 3 rows 6(2)x4(1), 1 row 6(2)x4(2), 3 rows 6(2)
M) lace
1 row 8(3), 1 row 11 dc in each

#neckline, do 90-degree dc decrease in each corner between shoulder and torso.

#neck is too deep for my taste
Start mid back dc,
In each corner 4 dc decrease, counting 2 torso stitches, 1 cluster, 1 shoulder stitch
A) add 2 dc rows on front:
Ch in shoulder stitch 1 row height from front. Dc across front, Ch 1 row height through shoulder stich turn dc across, fasten in shoulder stich.
B) 5 rows: begin mid back, dc and do decreases in each corner 4, counting 2 from torso, 1 cluster stich and 1 from shoulder
D) sc and decrease pouff
divide shoulder stitches as before. ⅕-⅗-⅕, in the mid section repeat ‘sc two together, sc’.
E) 2 rows of Ch tight through the back loop
F) small lace, 2-needle, single thread. repeat: Ch, skip 1, 4 dc, skip 1

#skirt - note if hips (or other lower body parts) are wider than breast width. Remember to start shell increases before pattern wants to, also consider to add extra shells when transitioning to 6(2) shells.- 8 shells may shift geometry because they generally are fatter than a half-circle.

Blocking did do some. But am considering redoing lower skirt at some time if needed.

A) Start somewhere nice. Dc all way round
Test if dress reaches below breasts.
B) start shells as sleeves.
D) 4(1)2(1) till lower rib, increase as for sleeve.
D) Or as fits your body!! I did
3 rows 4(1)x2(1), 1 row 4(2)x2(1) 1 row 6(2)x2(1), 1 row 6(2)x2(2), 7 rows 6(2)x4(1), 1 row 6(2)x4(2), 13 rows 6(2)x6(2), 1 row 6(3), 1 row 8(3)
E) 11 dc in each loop.