This is my first Japanese pattern. I purchased the pattern and now that I have seen it, I am underwhelmed at being able to read it. I can read numbers and crochet symbols and the copyright (in English). Everything else is in Japanese characters.

I have to say that the help file for reading Japanese charts doesn’t do a darn bit of good with the Japanese characters. I can’t copy the characters off the PDF and put into an online translator - the pdf is locked.

From what I can tell online, a 35 in bust is a women’s size Medium. That’s what I want, a size medium.

The next problem is to see if I can figure out which hook to use for which parts of the pattern.

Overview - From what I can tell by looking at other project pictures and then the charts, you make the middle filet section first. It is worked from side to side. Making 2 pieces and then seaming them together. I am not sure why it’s not made as 1 piece and then just 1 seam. But that’s how it is done.

Then I am assuming you work the yoke in the round? Then you can move to the armholes or the bottom of the dress.

I noticed that a couple of gals made tops instead of dresses and they have a definite waistline. I would LOVE to know how they did that.

I want to make sure I make a scooped neckline and not one that comes up on the collarbone. That should help with telling the front from the back.

So far, that’s all I have been able to figure out about the pattern.

Update - I have discovered from a friend that Google Image search can translate images! This is a life changer with this pattern!

Foundation chain for A
42 blocks = ch 127 + t-ch 5
Use 1.4 mm hook (US steel hook size 9) for foundation chain.

Use 1.3 mm hook (US steel hook size 8) for filet body.

First observation
Other projects used much smaller hooks than the pattern says. I went down to a 1.8 mm hook and it was still too large for gauge (by 2 stitches). The length of the first row, which is from the underarm to the bottom of the “top” was way too long. Going with smaller hooks …

Finally, gauge with a 1.3 mm hook for the filet. I can’t go any smaller with size 10 thread. This is a bit difficult with this small of a hook.

Armhole
ch 60 - for 20 additional blocks + t-ch 3. dc in 5th ch from hook.

Do not add extra chain because it’s already there as part of the last block you worked.

Gauge check
My gauge is correct at 36 sts = 4 in. But I am 14 rows at 4 in. Believe it or not, I am square, yet it seems the gauge is not square. Nothing I can do about this. My dress may end up being too large as this is worked side to side. Unless I can shorten it by a few rows. I will have to see how that works out.

From what I can tell of the pattern, it doesn’t match up at the side seams. At least the chart doesn’t match.

Reason I hate Aunt Lydia’s thread
Not even half way through the 1st ball of thread and …. it’s a manufacturer’s knot!

Filet Repeat on chart
The repeat is not marked or mentioned but you can see that there is a repeat by the way that there is a break in the chart.

I think the missing section is to work Rows 1-40, then repeat Rows 1-29, then pick up on Row 70.

Chart Error
When you start the repeat of Rows 1-29, the Leaf Border on each side is off by 8 rows. You have to adjust for this.

You have to be careful that your “leaf” border continues appropriately.

2 sides of bodice
Row pattern for bodice 36 inches, rows 1-4, armhole, rows 1-40, repeat rows 1-21, then rows 22-25 armhole (stopping 20 blocks in on armhole side).

1 side = 18.25 in

6/2/2025
I had to set this aside to make Easter Egg Pockets for the grandkids. Then I was sidetracked by a couple of rugs and finishing a cardigan. I am back now. This is my ONLY current project. Feels good to be cleaning up my WIPs!

Starting off with weaving in the ends of the front and back before I seam them together and move on to the yoke.

Yoke
I suggest working the back yoke part first so that you can see how tall you want this to be. It is easily adjusted by how many rows you use BEFORE the shaping.

When working the inside of the front yoke shaping, start on the center and work out. If you don’t, the stitches won’t match the chart. There is quite a bit of fastening off and re-attaching to get the shaping right.

How to put it all together
Work the filet sections A separately. Then you add the yoke sections B separately to each Filet A section. This will give you a definite front and back.

Then you add the filet sections C for the skirt, if you are making the dress.

Time to put it all together. You use a whip stitch to stitch the shoulders and side seams together then move on to the finishing edges.

Aug 28,2025
I took a hiatus from working on this for a couple of months. I needed to think about it. I know that it’s going to stretch a LOT after I wash and iron it. So, I am going to go with what I have and not worry about taking it out and making it larger.

This means that at this point the top is finished except for working in the ends and seaming it. There are a MILLION ends because of the way the yoke is worked. Sigh …..

Nothing to do but to actually start on all these freaking ends. The other hard part is that they are all within a very small area on each side of the neck and this is thread. It’s going to be difficult figuring out how to do this so they don’t show as all lumpy.

I have spent the afternoon weaving in ends on the bodice! I am so glad that is done. What a chore. It is worth it for the sculpted yoke.

For the neckline edging, I did a hdc around to make it a bit more noticeable as a finish. I finished the armholes the same. I don’t think my daughter would like the border for the armholes.

As a top, it is now finished. I am not going to add the skirt because I am not sure she would wear it. I think adding the skirt would be the easiest part of this dress. I am just calling it done.

Dimensions
pre-ironed
bust diameter - 18.5 in
front neck to hem - 20 in
back neck to hem - 22 in
armhole - 10.5 in

post ironed
(with towel to keep from flattening the puff stitches)
bust diameter -
front neck to hem -
back neck to hem -
armhole -