Mods to make it fit my hubby, size 11, plus using the technique of knitting in the “heel seam” as you go along, instead of sewing it later. They are a little bulky in the heel area, but the rest is a fine fit, and he is pleased to wear them with his Birks!
Bold is my mods from the pattern
1 • cast on 54 stitches with a circular needle
2 • 5 rows ankle edging of K1P1 (not reverse stockinette) - more masculine
3 • K9, (M1, K4)x9, M1, K9. 10 st added = 64 st. total
• 16 rows of heel wrap, always slipping the first stitch of the row. This is 15 rows (corresponding to the 13 rows as stated in the pattern), plus the first “bind off” row.
• Slip 1, P23 using circular needle. Using a short DP, P16. These (16) will be your working stitches, which you will work with a second short DP. The other 24 + 24 sit on the circular needle, with points facing your active knitting.
4 • 14 rows of stockinette, always slipping the first stitch of the row.
• Pick up 7 stitches on each side of heel flap: 7+16+7 = 30.
5 • Continue in stockinette stitch, incorporating one stitch from the circular needle with the final stitch from the short DP at the end of each row (K2T for K rows; SSP for purl rows) = 48 rows
6 • K15 st on what is becoming Needle 3. K15 st on another needle, Needle 1. Pick up and K8 = 23 st on Needle 1
• On Needle 2, pick up and K5 st from ribbing. Cast on 10 st , then pick up and K5 st from ribbing on other side = 20 st on Needle 2.
• For Needle 3, pick up and K8 st. K the 15 st on Needle 3 = 23 st on Needle 3. Total = 66.
7 • On next 5 rows:
K needle 1
(K1P1) repeat on needle 2
K needle 3
Pretty much everything here-in-out is different numbers:
8 • Begin stockinette stitch. On first row, K2t the last stitch on Needle 1 and the first stitch on Needle 2. Also SSK the last stitch on Needle 2 and the first stitch on Needle 3 = 64 st; 22/20/22.
• On 11th row, on Needle 1, K2tog stitches #21 & 22, and SSK the first two stitches on Needle 3; 21/20/21.
• On 21st row, on Needle 1, K2tog stitches #20 & 21, and SSK the first two stitches on Needle 3; 20/20/20.
9 • After 28 rows, begin toe as instructed, with stitches divided 15/30/15. K the even rows.
• For rows 15-16-17, do decreases as above. 5/10/5 st. remaining.
10 • Follow pattern for bind-off in Kitchener stitch.