I took out one pattern repeat and re-started because it was too big on my husband. I casted on only 72 sts, and I downgraded to a size 2 needle for the color pattern instead of a 3. Now that I’m nearly finished with the first sock, it’s really tight around his heel and foot. GEEZ! So it would’ve been better just to take out half the pattern repeat (since technically it repeats every 6 stitches). But he says it’s fine even if it’s a little snug. Ah well. It fits me absolutely perfect, so at least I know how to make a woman’s size if I wanted a pair for myself. :)

And if you’re interested in making a women’s size, as far as the heel and beyond goes (with the different amount of sts), here’s how the math worked out:

I still decreased by 4 sts after the color pattern was completed, like the instructions say, leaving me with 17 sts on each needle (68 total).

For the heel and for picking up the sides, I knitted according to the instructions.

But here’s how I did the turn heel:
K across 18 sts, SSK, K1, turn
P5, P2tog, P1, turn
Then continue this, slipping 1st st of each row, decreasing across gaps until all sts have been worked
19 sts remain

For the decrease rows, I used the same formula as the instructions, only I continued decreasing until I was back to 17 sts on each needle.

For the toe, I started on the secondary color as soon as I began the decreases. And I decreased until I had 18 sts on each side instead of 20.

Side note:
One thing I did figure out was how to avoid having a jog in the color pattern. You may be aware of the trick to use for this when striping. If not, here’s a tutorial: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_PjA0IR0MOU
The trick on these socks is to wait until you get to the beginning of the 3rd round of the chart to use the technique. Then do it again on the 9th round (since this is a repeating diamond pattern). You’ll see that the CC in the pattern is continuous and not interrupted where the rows end and begin. You’ll barely be able to see any difference in that spot.