I had so much fun knitting the last shawl that I decided to cast on another right away!
Helpful tips:

1. Right side rows are worked in the chart from right to left, and wrong side rows from left to right. Check and see where the row number is - that’s where you start from.

2. The border rows are NOT all symmetrical, so it does matter where you start from.

3. When you get to row 36, it will tell you to work row 34 of the border. This does NOT mean row 4 of the border chart - it means row 4 on page 3, before the lace section begins. The rows 3 and 4 it refers to from then on are garter stitch.

4. If you’re switching colors for the edging, you should do it on row 35 to get the garter stitch section done (row 11 is good to switch for the lace), then do rows 4, 3, 4, 3, 4, 3, 4, and switch again here at 3, then 4 - that way the wrong side has the color join visible.

5. By far, the part that took me the longest was the edging. I couldn’t get into a good rhythm with it because of so much flipping back and forth after 10 stitches or so, and I couldn’t memorize the 16 row repeat.

6. Alpaca wool stinks when it’s wet.

7. I had 100 gram skeins of each color. I was left with 16 grams of the beige and 44 grams of red.

8. What everyone is saying about binding off the garter stitch triangle instead of saving the stitches and binding them off last is true. I saved them and picked up a stitch on either end and just couldn’t see any benefit in doing so. Bind her off before moving on to the lace and save yourself the trouble.

9. I used the stretchy bindoff from the Forest Canopy Shawl (and elsewhere): k1, *k1, insert the tip of the left needle into the front of the 2 sts on the right needle and knit them together; repeat from * until all sts are bound off.

More pics to come after it’s blocked. Next up: a silk laceweight wedding shawl. Wish me luck.