I had challenges figuring out the correct stitch counts with these yarns and had to rip back several times, as versions 1 and 2 were too puffy.

Tubular cast on: 2.25mm, 80 sts. k1p1 ribbing for 2 rounds then switch to 2.5mm needles for 4 more rows. Switch to 3.25mm needles.
Increase row (to 120sts).
Add short rows (starting 18sts from CB and moving 3 sts each row for 10 rows. On 14th row, increase (k3, m1) and continue in pattern and with short rows (8 more). (I could have included more short rows.) Complete blip pattern.
Work blip. Increase again in last blip repeat to 200sts (add in extra increases over the front portion that was not worked when doing short rows).
Work blip (would suggest working another blip repeat before increasing again to make the sweater less puffy in the yoke portion). Increase again in last blip repeat to 250sts.
Work yoke to 8.25” depth (note: this is too long).

Sleeve division: at 250 sts, use b=72, f=66, s=56, co 4 sts under arms but pick up 8 for sleeves (dec 2 in first round of sleeves to help close holes).

Sleeves: make colour matching by knitting until colour of ball 1 matches start of ball 2 of Noro; then break yarn of ball 1 and start knitting sleeves.
Do 5 sets of decreases while knitting sleeves in forearm (could have done more, as sleeves are too baggy at bottom). Reduce 1/4 stitches and knit cuff in k1p1 ribbing.

Return to body and work body to 10.5”.
Switch to grey and work 11 rows of k1p1 ribbing (incorporated a few short rows in back). Tubular cast off.