Short Rows:
I used German Short Rows on the right side and Wrap and Turn on the wrong side rows. I prefer to begin the wraps wyif, slip it, wrap it, put it back, turn and take yarn to back and I think they look tidier and tighter.
I used German short rows both ends of rows 16 - 27, using the double stitch as the stitch marker indicator to commence purl 6.
To do a double stitch after a purl row, simply turn, bring yarn to front, slip purlwise, then double stitch.

Neckline
Picked up all stitches on neckline and then knit 10 rows garter stitch and did a bump row bind off. The photos don’t do it justice but it is well worth doing.
I did the first 5 feathers by casting off 10 stitches as per pattern, which did give a bit of a zig zag edge. I put the remainder of the feathers onto waste yarn but I suggest just casting off as once I picked up the stitches on the neckline (looks dreadful if you leave it) you can’t tell the difference between the first 5 and the rest.
I blended the dark purple alpaca into the 5th feather from the end and the the last feather. I used it for the neckline roll as well.

BUMP BIND OFF
If you use a contrasting colour which is different to the background colour of the shawl (as I did) there will be a “dotted” line where you add in the first row of neck colour. This is where you pick up the stitch from bottom to top and put it on the left needle.

Pick up the stitch 10 rows below and place on left needle and K2tog with the 1st stitch.
* Pick up the next stitch below and place on left needle, K2tog with the next stitch, bind off stitch on right needle. *
Repeat from * to * to end.

First Feather only:
Row 1: Cast on 130
Row 2: Knit to 5 stitches from end W & T

Feather 2 onwards:
Row 1: Knit to end, crochet cast on 26 (see note about feather tip)
Row 2: Knit to 5 stitches from end W & T
Row 3: Before knitting this row place Markers as follows. Commencing from left, RS facing:
30 Pin 15 Stop Marker 25 Mover
Reassess markers at end of Row 15. I replaced the stop with a mover and placed it 1 stitch to the left of the mover. From row 16 to 26 I did German DS both ends, using it as the turning marker.

1. Knit the extra stitch and place this stitch onto a stitch marker and dangle from end of work.
2. (Before commencing, Place markers) 30 Pin 15 Stop 25 Mover

Trust my notes, note start and finish positions on the chart as you place the markers and all will become clear. It becomes complicated when you try to explain! Once you “get it” you will only need the marker placement positions and occasionally have to look at the row by row instructions.

Enclosing Feather Tips with MC
Add an extra stitch to the 25 stitch cast on at the beginning of each feather - cast on 26. Turn work, knit the extra stitch and continue with pattern. I placed the extra stitch on a stitch marker and let it dangle out of the way at the end of the row. Knit the dangling stitch at the end of row 29, turn, K1, bind off 16 stitches.

I’ve written the row numbers on the chart - they already appear on either side of graph but I wrote them to show where a particular row ends = odd numbers on the left and even numbers on the right. I have enlarged the chart and I’m happy to send it if you PM me.

The pattern primarily consists of 5 stitch blocks worked left and right. I placed markers I call “movers” and “stops”, one set for the left short rows and one set for the right. No need to count stitches once the markers are in place, you just knit from one marker to the other, (you “slip” the stop markers) double stitch or wrap & turn, and move the marker 5 stitches in the direction stated until you reach that marker’s “stop”. You have reached a location when you have done a double stitch right next to a stop.
TIP: I used a green stitch marker for the RS left side in every section to keep a visual track of which end I was approaching - easy to lose concentration otherwise. I used silver rings for the stops.
Where I mention “pin” you can use a pin or a locking stitch marker as this marker is moved ahead into stitches that have not been knitted.

RM = Right Mover RS = Right Stopper
LM = Left Mover LS = Left Stopper

MARKER PLACEMENT FOR ROWS 2 TO 15

Row 2: K55, Place RM, K25, Place RS, K15, turn - Note - place LM 25 stitches from left side - you are currently 30 stitches from left side of work.

Row 3: Knit to RM, turn.

Row 4: Knit to LM, turn and take mover back another 5 stitches towards left side etc
Continue until you create a double stitch on the left side of the right stopper (this position is end of row 14 on chart).

Row 15: Knit back to beginning of row.

Row 16: K3, purl 41, turn. (1 stitch before stopper)
Replace right stopper with a LM
Rows 16 to 26 involve the purl stitches so refer to row by row for sequence and work back and forth between markers until end of row 27.

Rows 28 to 41 are short and simple - use row by row instructions.

Row 42: Before commencing place markers RS facing from left:
29 Stop 25 Pin 6 Stop 40 Mover
Work back and forth between Mover and Pin, adjusting them 5 stitches according to chart, re-assessing and adjusting markers. From here you should be able to work the rest out for yourself.

I hope you found these notes helpful:)