I knitted Mickey and Minnie in the round using Magic Loop.
MUZZLE
I used shadow wraps and changed the slip one’s to a knit stitch.
EARS
Cast on 24 stitches using Judy’s magic cast on. Working in stocking stitch, follow the pattern over the first 12 stitches on the first needle and then the second lot of 12 stitches on the second needle. I placed the increases and decreases one stitch in from the beginning and end of each needle so the first row is:
K1, kfb, K8, kfb, K2, kfb, K8, kfb, K1. I closed the ears using Kitchener stitch and stuffed them just before closing. I then sewed them to the head.
THUMB, HAND, ARM
Follow the pattern for the thumb and hand assembly but cast on double the amount of stitches in the pattern for the hand/thumb using Judy’s Magic Cast On. Place the increases/decreases on the second and second last stitch of each needle and continue to knit in the round up the arms, stuffing them as you go. Pop the button into the arm when you have 12 stitches remaining - the stuffing will hold it in place until it is ready to be sewn to the body after you close the arm opening. Leave enough black yarn at the beginning and end to sew the wrist closed and sew the arm to the body, through the button.
MOUTH
Cast on 15 stitches, work in stocking stitch, decrease one stitch each end of next and every following 2nd row until 3 stitches remain. Draw end through these 3 stitches to secure.
FOOT AND LEG
I held 2 strands of yarn together for Mickey’s shoes. Follow pattern until you have completed the instep and join in the round when you begin to work across all stitches again. Continue in the round for the leg section and sew the sole to the bottom of the shoe when you are about 6 rows up the leg.
CROTCH AND BODY
Follow the pattern for the crotch and picking up of stitches for the other leg and when you are say 6 rounds clear, sew up the crotch. Continue until you have the stated “64 stitches” Do not do the 2 stitch increase for the seam allowance but just continue to work in the round as follows, replacing the “work 8 rounds straight” with:
Work 32 rounds straight.
Then evenly decrease 8 stitches on next and every following 4th round until 32 stitches remain, stuffing as you go. Sew the arms to the body now where the increases begin for the shoulders.
Work 2 rounds straight then follow the pattern to the end of head (still stuffing as you go) from where it says “Next Round: Knit in back loop of each stitch to end of round” etc.
MINNIE’S DRESS
I used a 3mm crochet hook and did the bobbles as in the link below. I only did 2 double crochet (American Terms).
http://the-holocene.tumblr.com/post/44063552749/tutorial-...
I cast on 114 stitches and used the Dalek skirt as inspiration for Minnie’s dress.
http://www.entropyhouse.com/penwiper/who/extermaknit.html
I knitted it in stocking stitch instead of rib, placing all decreases directly over a bobble on a previous round, gradually decreasing until 61 stitches remained at the waist. The bump round on the bottom of the skirt was achieved by purling the first 10 rounds and on the following round I picked up a loop from the cast on round (to make it easier I used a wool needle to pick up and place this stitch on the left needle), placed it on the left needle and then knit it together with the next stitch on the left needle. Continue this for every stitch to end of round. I did the bobbles on every 10th round. I purled 10 rows for the waist and collar but did not do a bump stitch round for these two. I worked in back and forth in rows from just below the sleeves in order to leave an opening. I added bobbles for buttons and used snap fasteners instead of button holes.
DRESS SLEEVES
I knitted the Pigwig The Piglet sleeves by Heidi Bears as stated in the pattern (Minnie’s dress was 61 stitches at the underarm) and then I did the Piglet’s set up round to set the sleeves in.
Next round knit across all stitches.
Next row: Purl
Next row: Round 1 of Pigwig decreases
Next row: Purl
Next row: Round 2 of Pigwig decreases.
Next row: purl
Then 6 rows to match waist.
Cast off row: K1, K2tog, cast off, K1, cast off, K2tog, cast off, K1, cast off. Continue this sequence to end of round.
MINNIE’S SHOES
I followed the pattern for the Pigwig The Piglet’s shoes, holding 2 strands of yarn together (to make them oversized, just like Minnie’s) but only did the first couple of decreases to get a stitch count of 30. I then adjusted the pattern for this amount of stitches and continued to the end of the shoe. I changed to black for her legs instead of the blue and white for the Piglet.
MINNIE’S BOW
Cast on 32 stitches using Judy’s Magic Cast On and Magic Loop.
Rounds 1-9: K14, P4, K14 = bow pattern, continue throughout.
Round 10: Do 2 bobbles on one side of bow and 1 on the other side.
Knit another 10 rounds and do 1 bobble on the first side and 2 on the other.
Knit another 10 rounds.
Kitchener stitch to close bow.
Knit a 3 stitch i-chord long enough to cinch bow and Kitchener the ends together around purl centre of bow.

A LITTLE STORY
I knitted the original Mickey for my daughter in 1980 and he was lovingly stored until her daughter came along in 2009.

He has been my granddaughter’s companion since she was a few months old. She did “everything” with Mickey except take him in the bath. He ate with her, he slept with her and I nearly missed my plane home on one occasion when we had to go back to her aunties because we’d forgotten Mickey!! I received a phone call when she was 4 with a little voice saying “Mickey’s got a hole! Can you fix him?” and then out of the blue “And make a Minnie too??!!” Mickey was posted to me and the rest is history. I made another Mickey (she thinks it’s the original and that I have very good soap) and did a bit of gender transformation with the Mickey pattern and Minnie was born.

Here is Mickey I:

http://www.ravelry.com/projects/green1tree/mickey-mouse

I hope you found these notes helpful:)