Yarn is ordered from the Faroe Islands. The taupe is the natural color of the wool. It took several months for a sweater quantity to be available from the small island.
Photo to the left is of the Faroe Islands.

CastOn 110 sts
Make this cast-on! It is fabulous and looks exactly like tubular cast-on without bulk.
Alt Cable CO distinguishing k & p: https://youtu.be/QDtcabyPQaI
Alt.Cable CO: https://youtu.be/6WQIm1H2hDM

Comparing edge of Italian and Tubular CastOns
Go down 1-2 needle sizes for cast on from what you’ll use for ribbing.
Rox: https://youtu.be/3F5k-v3Nqyo
Suzanne’s: https://youtu.be/s_IT9dAvG98

Method 1 – Provisional with picked up stitches
Method 2 – Provisional with k1 yo, and double knitting rows
Method 3 – Italian tubular cast on with double knitting rows
Use a smaller needle for the methods that use double knitting (the second and third method). Method 1 and 2 are best for odd #s – if you need an even # of sts, cast on one extra and work a decrease on your first ribbing row. (Or you can cast on one less and then work an increase in your first ribbing row.)

18 Cast on Methods
https://my-filing-cabinet.com/knitting-cast-on-methods/
Good picot edge tutorial:
https://youtu.be/rlChT9rzoFE
Comparing Tubular CastOns. http://www.annabrightdesigns.com/techniques/a-comparison-...

Knit 1 row
Made 5 sets of short rows using German short rows
Make 10 M1 increases evenly distributed on 2nd set of short rows. Total 120 sts.

First Increase Row: 50% increase by knit 2, M1L
Knit 6 rows. (60 sts increased; total 180 sts)
Second increase row: 33% increase by knit 3, M1L
Knit 19 rows. (60 sts. increased; total 240 sts)
Third increase row is worked around pattern: 25% increase by knit 5, M1L, knit 3, M1L. (60 sts increased; total 300 st)

Colorwork Dominance
I held the lighter background yarn to the left so it would be dominant. This opened up the delicate Lacey hop berry design.

After yoke design, knit until 8.25” from CastOn. Make 3 sets short rows afteryoke design to keep sweater from riding up when sitting as suggested in one of Eliz. Zimmerman’s books. These short rows wrap around 2/3 of the 300 stitches on needles increasing length of each short 4st past w&t. Zimmermann usually does these shortrows along back from side seam to side seam and one set with 1” between for three sets just before bottom hem.

Separate 57 sts for arms and 186 for body w 16 sts cast on at each underarm. https://youtu.be/rTjnOnQbi-g
Body 186 + 16 +16 = 218 218/5.2 spi = 41.9”
Sleeves 57 + 16 = 73 sts. 73 sts/5.2 spi = 14.0”

Move BOR marker from center back to center underarm by knitting 46 sts (half of the 93 back stitches) place 57 sleeve sts on holder, knit CastOn 8 sts, pm, CastOn 8 sts, knit 93 sts, place 57 sts on holder, CastOn 16 sts, knit to new BOR. Body has 218 sts.

Knit body until 12.5”. Knit 1x1 ribbing for 3”.
Tubular bindoff in Round https://youtu.be/SBrGhv1_RBU
Tubular BO: 2 rows double knit (row 1: knit the knits, slip purls pw with yarn in front.Row 2: slip knits pow, purl the purls. Repeat.) Then Kitchener: place marker on first knit, kw off, skip next purl stitch to pass needle through next knit stitch pw and leave on. Place marker on first purl stitch, pass needle through first purl stitch pw and slide off, skip to next purl stitch and pass needle from back knitwise and leave on. Repeat these 4 steps to end. Pick up the two marked stitches at end: Purlwise the marked knit st. and knitwise the marked purl st.
Icelandic Bindoff is another good option for ribbed bindoff.

Sleeves:w 57 sts on needles, pick up and knit 16 sts from underarm CastOn. Video to avoid holes when picking up stitches under the arms https://youtu.be/8K-IsMdTHK0. 73 sts for sleeves. Place the two single stretched bars on needle. With new yarn pick up two bars above every upright “V” stitch. Place 1 single stretched bar on right needle and reverse mount the second stretch bar to K2tog with first held sleeve stitch. Knit across the held sleeve stitches. Reverse mount the loop of first stretched bar on needle and SK through back loops with last sleeve stitch. Then reverse mount next bar and K2tog with picked up underarm stitch. Knit across underarm stitches. Reverse mount the last underarm stitch and SK through back loop with the looped stretched bar.
Knit until length is 3” from underarm then start decrease rounds.
Start decrease with 4 sts between decrease sts every 9th round 13 times until you have 48 sts left. Knit until 16.5” from underarm.
Knit one row in contrast color before cuff ribbing on left sleeve. Cuff 1x1 ribbing x 1.75” or ~13 rounds.
1x1 invisible Bindoff without bulk for sleeves: https://youtu.be/23uJSGokBDA

Kitchener graft different combinations of purl and knit.
https://youtu.be/DtumaOGSOro

Math from Schematics and Gauge
Bust: 37” + 5” ease
Hips: 41”
Arms: 13” + 1” ease
Wrists: 6.5” + 1” ease
Back of neck: 4.75”
Neck Depth i.e. Ease: 2”
Yoke Depth: 8.5”

Sweater Length: 23.5”
Arm Length from Underarm: 18”
Sweater Length Neck to Waist: 17”
Sweater Length Neck to Bust Darts: 11”
Distance Between Bust Darts: 10”
Waist Circumference: 34”

Gauge: 31.5/6” = 5.2 spi
CastOn for 21” neck opening: 110 sts
Body: needs 218sts (41.9”)
Arm: needs 73sts (14.0”)
Underarm stitches: 8% of 218 ~ 16 sts
Total stitches needed after yoke increases:
218+73+73 - 4(16) = 300 sts
Wrist: ~48 sts May adjust after checking ribbed hem gauge.

Neck band .5”
Bottom hem 2.75” started at 12.75” from underarm
Cuff pattern suggested 1.75” started at 16.5” from underarm. I’m using2.5” Cuff. Started 17” from underarm.

Separating arms and body
Another math example on a different project for a child’s size 27.5” chest and sleeved are 8.5” and 7.5 spi: you’d have 268 stitches : 174 for the body ( 27.5 * 7.5 - 2.2 * 7.5 - 2.2 * 7.5) and 47 for each sleeve (8.5 * 7.5 - 2.2 * 7.5)
You will take the 174 st for the body and will add 2 cast on of 2.2 * 7.5 = 17 st so you will have 174+17+17 = 208 st for the body.
And 47 st for each sleeve ( you will add 17 st when you do the sleeves) so you will have 64 st for each sleeve.
So :
208 st for the body is near 27.5 inches * 7.5spi = 206.25
64 st for one sleeve is near 8.5 inches * 7.5spi =63.75

Taking Body Measurements
https://youtu.be/U2gI_J01p9U

Determining Back of Neck, Shoulder Stitches, and Front Neck Depth for Women, Men, and Children
http://www.lindysknitslaces.com/tag/sweater-design/

Percentage System for Determining Yoke Increases and Neck and Arm Circumferences Based in Relation to Bust Size
https://tutorials.knitpicks.com/percentage-system/
https://jenjoycedesign.com/tag/elizabeth-zimmermann-perce...
https://ysolda.com/blogs/journal/stripy-3-the-yoke
How to Space Increases Gen discussion w Suzanne:I divide the total number of stitches that I have by the number that I need to increase by.

Often you will end up with fractions.

Say you have 280 and you need to increase by 100, 280 / 100 = 2.8. That means an increase every 2.8 stitches and of course you can’t do that.

So what I do is break it down into the lowest common denominators - 280 / 100 is the same as 140 / 50 which is the same as 70 / 25, which is the same as 14 / 5. that is the lowest common denominator.

Then I draw it out on a piece of paper

l l l * l l l * l l l * l l l * l l *

14 stitches with 5 increases = 19 sts.

l = stitch * = increase

So you can see that in the 14 stitches, I added an increase after 3 stitches 4 times and then after 2 stitches once. You would repeat this around the yoke.

Stranded: Colorwork vs Fair Isle
https://kelbournewoolens.com/blog/2017/5/stranded-colorwo...

Interweave Best Yarns for Fair Isle
https://www.interweave.com/article/knitting/best-yarns-fa...

Tips for Fair Isle knitting
https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/fair-isle-stranded-knitti...

Norwegian Knitting and Steeking Techniques
http://fairisleknitting.blogspot.com/p/tips-and-tricks.html

Catching Floats
Catch long floats by STUART and pinstripe method:
http://techknitting.blogspot.com/2016/11/long-floats-in-c...

§§§§§§§§§§§§§§§
Hold the background color in your right hand and the contrasting color in your left hand. This makes the left hand yarn strand across underneath the main background color and the stitch will be slightly longer making it appear more dominant. You only need to catch a float that is more than an inch across so maybe the two rows where the CC yarn will span 6 sts. You don’t want to catch the float in the same spot as the previous round so you might catch the float on the 3rd stitch on one round and the 4th stitch on the next round.When you’re ready to catch a float, work to the 3rd or 4th background stitch, stretch the the stitches apart on the right-hand needle so the CC float will be long enough to allow enough space for the orange sts to be able the lay flat later on when they are worked.
Insert your right-hand needle into the 3rd or 4th background stitch, but don’t wrap your working yarn around the needle yet.

Slide your right-hand needle underneath the floating strand (CC), then wrap the working yarn (background) around your needle to knit the stitch.
If you stop here and look at your float, you’ll see that it’s caught in the space between the stitch you just knit and the previous stitch. You’ve effectively trapped the float.
https://youtu.be/bD7arufsuvg?si=vBGppJWhGFUzxM0o

Different CastOns for Ribbed Neck
Tried two different cast-ons: Alt Cable at bottom of photo and Tubular on the red cable.
Alternating Cable Cast-on
Looks like a tubular cast-on but without the thick rim.
https://youtu.be/6WQIm1H2hDM
https://youtu.be/RCmm8zYCzq4
Transfer newly formed stitches onto left needle knitwise then purlwise as shown this video:
https://youtu.be/wvvUjjyYJ-E

Tubular CastOn:
https://youtu.be/daebO9c5qDo.

Provisional Castons:
Onto Interchangeable cable: https://youtu.be/XsoEa0IG03Q

Template Article w Printout Worksheet for Fitting Your Own Design into Yoke Includes Both Top Down & Bottom Up
https://blog.tincanknits.com/2018/11/09/how-to-design-a-s...
https://www.interweave.com/article/knitting/3-things-to-r...

Swatching
Testing US 6 & US 7
Swatch in round 10” circumference for 4” of stockinette for each needle size. Mark sections with purl bumps corresponding to needle size and separate sections w a row of purl. Wet block w 20 min soak, dry completely without any stretching and carry swatch around and handle a few days before measuring gauge. In photo, US 7 was used at bottom of swatch and US 6 on top. My youngest son found the little black heart shaped stone and gave it to me for Valentine’s Day.

Blocking Different Swatches
https://youtu.be/5IKQCsBetpQ
20min soak. Don’t stretch during pinning—just true up corners and uncurl edges of stockinette. After blocking, the edges of superwah will start to curl again faster than nonsuperwash wool.

Avoiding Enlarged Last Stitch When Binding Off
https://youtu.be/-yzNX5FGQSE
On last row before bindoff, form next to last stitch so it is reverse mounted to take up the excess of yarn.

Short Rows at Neckhttps://youtu.be/Bhvx8wtWkw8
ShortRows in Pattern https://youtu.be/Prcpr43c5Yg

Blocking a Sweater Knitted in the Round
https://youtu.be/Ny4mitFIK_A
Fold arms in and fold sweater into a rectangle to fit in soaking tub. Soak 20 min. Gently line up to planned finished measurements premarked w pins on blocking board.

Experimenting with Increases
Increase that is most unintrusive is stockinette: (RLI)
http://techknitting.blogspot.com/2007/05/very-nearly-invi...

Comparing various increases:
http://www.twistcollective.com/collection/component/conte...

Make 1 Increases on Purl Side:
https://youtu.be/jh6v10RAdQQ

Invisible Increases on Purl Side: (LLIP is most invisible)
https://youtu.be/9r6_AVbmmtU
http://www.instantsdelouise.fr/en/portfolio/lifted-increa...
http://woolandwonder.blogspot.com/2012/08/levenwick-myste...

Formula I Developed in Past for Waist Shaping
Place markers a 1/3rd of the way in on back and 1/4th of the way in on front. 28sts and 35 sts fron sides.
Make the increases and decreases on outside of markers, slant decreases in towards center and slant increases away from the center, leaving center stitches straight.

Start shaping 3” below underarm stitches
4 (2-4) sets of Decreases over next 3”
Knit straight for 1.5”
4 (4-6) sets of Increases for hips over next 4”
Knit straight for 4.5”

---

Group Discussions
https://youtu.be/rhX355w39Cc
(6.5 min)Fibers if steeking: any wool, even super wash, will work. Slippery fibers like silk, bamboo, tender, rayon will need to secure steek with sewing machine.
Short rows build neck upwards not inwards (not smaller circumstance)
(49min) swatch even when working w same yarn and need because gauge can change day to day, w drinking wine, conversation, watching movies,etc.
Measuring gauge on lace, measure pattern repeat to pattern repeat somewhere in the middle of the swatch fabric and check chart for number of stitches in the lace pattern repeat. Don’t use an edge on the swatch or use a stockinette edge because seed or garter stitch edge will change row gauge.

Live Stream 2/13/2019: https://youtu.be/z5pH4E-Ss7A
(24min)Weaving in ends: if using woolen wool, you can just weave under floats and it will grab and felt. If using superwash, you need to catch stitches under the floats or duplicate stitch
(32min) With hand dyed yarns to avoid transition line when new skein has different pooling pattern, start alternating skeins when first skein is half done

Using Ann Budd’s Book for Yoke Sweater
https://youtu.be/dC5W0pWWHQc
Using Ann’s Book part2
https://youtu.be/8Z9u0UtZU9c
Using Ann’s Book part3 When gauge or size falls outside the book’s charts.
https://youtu.be/OUe6tg8W7H8
Using Ann’s Book to Adjust Sleeve Circumference
https://youtu.be/EsggQilA5NI
Avoiding Holes Under the Arms
https://youtu.be/8K-IsMdTHK0

Calculating Yardage from Swatch and Schematics
https://youtu.be/aEKhuYwib0Y

Making Swatch for Yoke Sweater
https://youtu.be/0nECq0TZS8E

Off the Cuff: w Charles Gandy 3/3/2019 https://youtu.be/THP-rP2jmWw
If gauge is smaller in stranded work vs stockinette, either go up a needle size while doing stranded work or add a stitch setting up for stranded work and remove it again when transitioning back to stockinette to avoid puckering in the stockinette.
W Arendt Holliday(3/6) https://youtu.be/_Y4ugnfJor0
(28 min) Suzanne says make steek about 1” wide; w fingering weight, she likes to use 7 st steek; w Aran weight, she suggests keeping steek no wider than an inch and use sewing machine to secure steek.

(3/11)https://youtu.be/6_ABaxQA52w
~5min where to place short rows and amount of Short rows. Measure difference between sweater lengths from back of neck down and front of neck down for amount. Short rows will raise the back of sweater neck and drop the sweater neck down in front. Most have a neck that curves forward so add short rows before yoke design at top. If there is a lot of back curvature, add short rows after the yoke design at the bottom. Can add short rows in reverse after picking up provisional stitches.
~22min Two ways to make scoop neck
~24min To see how much alpaca grows in length, dry wet block with weights on edge totaling ~25g for one week. Remove weight and handle swatch for another week. Then measure stitch and row gauge.
~44min all yoke increases must be made before the halfway depth of yoke which is the top of shoulders otherwise it will feel constricted. E. Zimmermann pi shawl approach: every time you double in radius, the stitch count must also double this works out to increasing 4 sts every round. If you increase every other round, make 8 increases; if increase every three rounds, make 12 increases.

I suggest swatching in the round for St st and swatching in the round for your twisted rib stitch.

Then block and compare your stitch gauge.

Then, if you are using the St st for the first few rounds, you need to cast on in that stitch gauge and compensate at the change for the twisted rib stitch gauge.

As for the short row turns on the twisted rib, I would use standard w&t short rows and always turn on the purl stitch as seen from the right side of the fabric (the non twisted stitch). Swatch that too and see what you think.
Suzanne’s reply to Needlepointer’s post #165
I do not do anything to join in the round other than just start knitting.
I am doing the same on my sweater. I used the crochet cast on, then knit one round. Then I worked my short rows, then did the first increase round.
If you are not doing any short rows, then just knit one round before doing your increase round.

But I’m getting “bumps” (for want of a better term) all the way around. Have I done something wrong? Will this block out or stretch out? I’m hesitant to go any farther until I figure out what’s happening.

ITAG Yoke

reply

I think I just answered my own question. The last round of the pattern has floats spanning 3 or 4 stitches on the back side. On the next round I did my last increases, going from 332 stitches to 420 stitches. That stretched the floats way too far! Now the question is: how do I prevent this from happening?

reply
I don’t think that is it. By going from 332 to 420, that is less than 1 increase every 3 stitches. That should not overdo the floats. I suspect that your floats are on the tight side to begin with. Just tink back to the last float round, and catch the floats at least every inch, and leave a smidge extra for the stretch.

Off the Cuff 3/13: https://youtu.be/TBPj7ggWC2k
24min all increases done by half yoke depth or outside edge of shoulder. Yoke design stop 1” armhole depth.
Suzanne uses 8% of body circumference for width of casted on underarm stitches, while Ann uses 2”-3”.
Suzanne casts on, knit one row, make 1” worth short rows, then first increase row. Don’t cast on the steek stitches during provisional CastOn—just include the stitches that will be picked up to knit the collar. Ann waits and does the short rows after picking up the Provisional CastOn stitches.
Shortest short row is at the side (half the stitches) and short rows will extend partway around to the front.
Suzanne suggested, for first-sweater knitters, in lieu of a yoke design, knit yoke plain but on increase rounds 2-4 from Ann’s book, knit K2tog, y.o. with 1-2 rows garter stitch before and after the y.o. eyelets’ row. She also suggested using beads.
~43min The increases for one increase round can be spread over 1-5 rows.
~57min Short rows in cable pattern-make the turn in the purl area outside of cable.
~1:18min If third increase row is in yoke design: start the design with removing the number of stitches that you’ll be adding in the last increase round.

learned a lot from my swatch and ended up changing the pattern and color choices. With the mosaic pattern, I noticed that I’m holding the yarn too tight when I switch from one needle to the next (magic loop). This keeps me from laddering but now I’m getting puckered stitches that distort the pattern. I’ve also decided to make a tiny version of my sweater so I can work out my issues (i.e. puckering etc) before making the one that is for me. I’ll give the tiny version to a granddaughter for a doll or stuffed animal.
QUESTION: I’m adding neck short rows to the beginning. I believe I have to CO, do short rows, then increases. Is this the correct order?
Happy Sunday knitting!
Suzanne’s reply
Correct order.
When doing mosaic, you need to be sure to leave enough space for the stitches to exist between the slips.
Even at the needle changes.

Off the Cuff #5-Yoke Theory-3/17: https://youtu.be/zASg_3bXCqI
Did anyone catch Suzanne’s reason why she prefers her steeks patterned as stripes rather than checkerboard in today’s Off-the-Cuff show? I really appreciated this comment!
Time Stamp 13:57 to 14:53
I’ve never heard anyone on any platform verbalize this “answer”. I’m going to remember this!
Strange Brew Theory Book says yoke increases can be shifted over different rows to work around design but reach total body count of stitches w 40-60% of yoke to knit.
If stranding three colors, hold background in right hand and the both of the two contrast colors in left hand. (note: I did this on my Hadley Sweater.)
~25min Short rows worked so the turns occur along neck opening—with top down sweaters start short rows with shortest row first; with bottom upsweater start short rows near neck with longest short row first.
~32min shortest shshort row should be half of neck stitches, covering all of the back neck; longest shortrow should extend 30% on each side of the front neck.
~26min Suzanne and I use odd steek number, crochet one leg of center with one leg of other color, and then cut through the center stitch (between the crochet lines)If use even steek stitch numberyou would cut through between the two center stitches and the crochet enforcement only goes through the two legs of same color.
~44min colorwork pulls in so in Suzanne’s swatch she has stitch equivalence of 6spi in stockinette portion and 7 spi in colorwork. To compensate you can either go up a needle size or adjust stitch number if you like the fabric of colorwork on the same smaller needle. After her 2nd yoke increases, she increased again for stitch equivalency by knit 6, increase 1 for every inch on the very first row of colorwork. Then decreased one stitch every inch on the very last row of colorwork.
~46min pick up stitches for button band between steek and body columns
~1.04min Bottom yoke=body + 2sleeves - 4(8%body)

Setting up the Steek
https://youtu.be/RsIC3woIGxI

Off the Cuff w Rob 3/20 https://youtu.be/Zuj5o1FsL64
~29min: steeking w 3 colors—knit the 2 cc colors that are held in left hand as double strand stitch alternated w Mc. So they are caught when crocheting the legs of the sts.
~50min adjusting for less material in back and more in front. Mark middle underarm on bra or snug shirt and compare front half circumference to that of the back

Off the Cuff#6 Dividing the Sleeves https://youtu.be/ULIRr4FNQeY
~1:04min.If bottom of yoke needs to be 58” for body & arm circumferences minus the underarm widths, then use the stranded stitch gauge to determine number of stitches and for designs in so Back is center. Then check should design symmetry and check that no large design points at the breasts.

Off the Cuff #7 waist shaping: https://youtu.be/eGCe_xVHRS4
If you move fabric from back half to the front by separating sleeves a little further back, when you’re done with the yoke move side markers back to their original position as reference point for any waist shaping
(Waist shaping discussed in First 20 min)Aran sweater: traditionally no waist shaping; but shaping could be done at side seams. Don’t change needle size b/c it’d affect cable rows. Don’t use increases and decreases b/c it’d show in the stitch pattern
Fair Isle bands: add a vertical column design to hide BOR jumps. Vertices band also contained initials and date.
Mermaid Mesh Sweater: perfect candidate for shaping by changing needle sizes: Body on US4, knit US3 for 3”, knit US2 for an inch, knit US 3 for 3”, and back to 4. Suzanne did not like how her shaping just at side seams caused it to bump out at hips. But don’t comment negatively about knitting in front of other side~~keep it to yourself! ; )
Make A-Line Style: knit straight—no upper waist shaping; then add a wedge design. Ex started w 4 sts and went into a wedge lace design.
~31min move BOR so color change occurs in middle of design patter instead of the edge to avoid jogs.
~43min. 2 of the 3 Bust shaping will help add length to the front so it doesn’t ride up: 1)adding more material to front by separating arms further back 2)adding short rows near Bust. 3)upper waist shaping w decreases adds definition to Bust but doesn’t add length to front.
~49min make color change at center stitch in the middle of the steek.
~53min cast on 7 steek stitches then start the provisional crochet chain CastOn for neck stitches.

Off the Cuff #8 https://youtu.be/2yZbC0BvkIQ
~20min Aran Sweater. All weight reston neck—remember Cable Flare reduction and bind off tightly at neck so it doesn’t get pulled outward which would have been noticeable with vertical rope columns
~28min to decreases material in sweater back, shaping more or just in back and could go down a needle size on just the back when knitting with two circular needles.
~32min CastOn on for Knit Flat Tab Opening. If spi is 6, CastOn on 6 fewer stitches and include 2 more sts for the selvage edge that will turn under after picking up sts.After the tab add the 6 sts back when knitting the body(the two selvage sts turn under)For Steeked Tab, you don’t need the 2 selvage sts; you will pick up stitches between the body and the steek. Yoke Depth was 9” measured from front where no short rows are.
~46min For Kangaroo Pocket, after upper waist shaping and before lower waist shaping, pick up new stitches Through a stitch, not between stitches.
~48min Suzanne’s using 10% ease (4”) for yoke
~1:10min Suzanne uses 4” ease w fingering and 5-6” ease with up to worsted weight.

Off the Cuff #10 https://youtu.be/Whb5RqoXzfg
Suzanne has pocket sts on extra Interchangeable cables.
Recommended books: Essentials to Colored Knitting Techniques be Margarette Radcliffe
Sweater 101 by Cheryl Brunette
Viking Patterns for Knitting by Elsebeth Vadore
~52minAmy Hertzog states that yoke shouldn’t be shorter than body’s armhole depth. It fits best if it’s in the neighborhood of your set-in sleeve armhole depth up to 2” longer.
Suzanne order: CastOn on steek sts, then Provisional CastOn for Body minus button band width, join in round, knit 1 round, short rows, 1st increase row, knit couple inches, 2nd increase row at tip of shoulders before starting yoke, increase 1stich per inch to compensate for stranded knitting drawing in and getting 7 spi in teas of 8 spi. Reduce yoke design at beginning by how many stitches you’ll be adding in the 3rd increase row. 3rd or last increase by half yoke and top of outside shoulders. Last row stranded knitting remove 1spi before stockinette.

Off the Cuff #11 Shaping https://youtu.be/nTQmrlM0t2Y
Treat yoke Depth as Pythagorean’s Theorem hypotenuse.
Start upper waist shape 3” above bend at waist and finish lower waist before widest area where you needed increases.
Suzanne’s reply to special neck bindoff on a short sleeved sweater: I used two rounds of reverse stockinette and then bound off purlwise. It gives a nice rounded edge that mimics I-cord bind off.
What I did was, have three stitches in St st for the diagonal edge, 7 corrugated ribbing stitches, then 2 St st, then the M1 inrcrease then work to front center of pocket edge. Reverse for other side.
Pockets
When I change from St st to corrugated ribbing, work it as k1 mc, k1, cc etc then switch ribbing on next row. That keeps you from having bicolored purls on the RS of the first row.
Ladder back jacquard is a form of double knitting, just much thinner, rather than a true double fabric.

Off the Cuff #11 Ribbing https://youtu.be/_EFaMFkfK2Q
Ribbing: any combo of 50% (+/- 10%) of knits and purls will counteract the tendency of stockinette to curl up.

Off the Cuff #12A https://youtu.be/u21eUYPK80s
~9min pockets: if stranded colorwork is started mid fabric it will pull so use ladder back jacquard instead.
~25min short rows to add length for Bust shaping ex 4 sets short rows start shortest short row halfway between dart and center of underarm and longer shortrows until reach center of underarm. Start waist decreases 1” plus 3” (or length you want to distribute the decreases) above bend at waist.
~27min Do a short steam blocking if mid way on sweater. If you do a regular wet block mid project, it will leave a line that wet blocking the finished project won’t remove.
~30min If seaming or using faux seam purl column, move all shaping increases and decreases 3 stitches away from selvedge or faux seam at center of underarm.
Off the Cuff #12B https://youtu.be/J91mlgMITNw
~3minPi shawl construction re yoke and raglan
~22min garter stitch as button band or edge of stockinette
Pick up for button band instead of incorporating at edge of body because of different gauges. If need edge in garter might do a short row in garter every inch if stockinette row gauge is 7rows per inch and garter is 9 rows per inch.
~34min bind off after corregated ribbing: make 2-3 rows of reverse stockinette and bindoff Purlwise.

Off the Cuff#14 https://youtu.be/FJ7iB7eS-ng
Customizing fit w more models. Measure hips over the jeans or pants you’ll wear w sweater. Don’t add 10% ease but about an inch larger than hips.
~1 hour If moving fabric from back to front, it will raise neck so you may not need as many short owls at neck, it will add length to front, and yoke design will parallel ground in spite of neck moving up in back because the larger chest will bring it out laterally.

Off the Cuff #17 https://youtu.be/ReetUBVVzkg
Choosing colors and checking contrast values for Into the Jungle Cardigan.
3-Needle Bindoff at shoulders: knit a plain round after colorwork before the 3-needle bindoff to avoid the purl blips of color specks.
When using Provisional CastOn, knit one round in one color before starting colorwork or lace or short row turns.

Avoiding small gap to left of German Short Row

Instead Try this:

1) Work to one stitch before your DS and slip that stitch as if to knit

2) Knit the first leg of the DS through the back loop (you may have to wiggle the tip of the needle a bit to get in there)

3) Pass the slipped stitch over

2) Knit the second leg of the DS through the back loop

https://pattylyons.com/2018/06/germanshortrowsintheround/...