Here are some detailed notes:
Cast on 24 st for 8” wide.

Yarn:
I used Noro Silk Garden. Variegated colorways are best, as long as they have long color repeats - many variegated yarns do not. Wisdom Poems, SWTC Karaoke, Plymouth Boku, Knit Picks Chroma worsted and Patons SWS are others that work well in entrelac (the latter has beautiful colorways but can be itchy and splitty).

Needles: I started with Knit Picks nickel plated interchangeables, which I love and am using for just about everything. But I’m finding that straight needles might actually be preferable for this project (because it’s not very wide) so that the blocks you have on the needle that you’re not currently working on stay more neatly and it’s a little easier to see what you’re doing. I ended up with US 8 (5mm) 9” bamboo straights. Another way is to use the interchangeables as straight needles with caps on the ends.

Cast on: Crochet CO with one extra chain in between each loop made it loose enough. Cast on 24 sts for 3 base triangles.

To slip or not to slip?
I tried both ways. Slipping the first stitch of a row as many entrelac patterns say, makes it much easier to find your stitches to pick up later. But it also creates bigger seams on the wrong side of the fabric, because when you pick up those stitches you’re going into 2 strands. On the other hand, if you work all the stitches and don’t slip any, when it comes time to pick up sts you can pick up into the “knot” that is formed and this is just one strand, firm enough to not create a hole. (Thanks to Gwen Bortner for this tip!)
I ended up going back to slipping sts because I found it easier, just my personal preference.

Tip for Memorizing the Rectangles:
Slip the 1st st of every “join” row (the row that has a P2tog or SSK)
(Except for the left triangle - no slipped stitches)
This is written into the pattern but it helps to remember so you don’t have to read the pattern once you understand how it’s constructed.
Then you just have to memorize the Tier 1 triangles!

Pick up and purl:
This is just picking up stitches purlwise, meaning needle back to front.
I find it easier to do this backward, on the RS from left to right, rather than the WS from right to left.

Color distribution:
I tried to start a new skein with the same color I ended with, to avoid abrupt color changes, but this wasn’t always possible, and at some point you have to go with the flow!

To avoid a jagged edge along the right edge of fabric:
At the end of Tier 1, to start the Right Side Triangle, you pick up stitches and go out to the edge of the fabric. Make sure that the last picked up st goes into the very last selvedge st which is a “knot” - don’t have the last picked up st be any further in. This will keep the side edge straight. You may have to distribute your 8 picked up stitches a little differently there, but as long as they’re fairly evenly distributed it’s fine. A little blocking can even out the edges too.

FRINGE INSTRUCTIONS:
I decided to do knotted fringe, as in the Lady Eleanor shawl. Knotted fringe is much easier than it looks, and I think adds an elegant touch even to a humble scarf. It takes about half a skein of Noro for a large shawl, but much less for a narrower scarf.
A bead placed at the top knot of each fringe is a nice added touch. (If you’re not using beads, you can use these instructions without the beads).

1. If using beads, buy seed beads, size 5/0 for worsted weight yarn. Smooth, round ones are best.
2. Cut pieces of yarn about 3 feet long - 3 or 4 fringes per triangle is about right. So if you have 3 bottom triangles on your scarf, then about 9-12 fringes. (One fringe = one piece of yarn, which gets folded in half).
3. Put a bead onto a needle threader, put the end of a piece of yarn through the needle threader, slide the bead onto the yarn.
4. Place the bead at the midpoint of the piece of yarn, so the yarn is now folded in half.
5. With one edge of the scarf facing you, starting at the left side, push the bead through the crocheted edging of the scarf, from right side to wrong side, pull it down a bit so you have a loop there.
6. Pull the two free strands of the yarn through the loop you’ve made, and tighten that knot so the bead sits right on the edge of the scarf.
7. Tie the two strands together at the top tightly to secure the bead.
8. Take another bead, repeat the process all the way across the edge of the scarf, so that for each triangle you have about 3 or 4 fringes. That means one fringe for every 2 or 3 crochet chains on your scarf edging.
9. Lay the fringed edge of the scarf out on a table so you can even out all the fringe.
10. Take a pill bottle that has a 1” diameter. Starting on the left side, tie together the right leg of the 1st fringe to the left leg of the 2nd fringe, by putting the pill bottle between them and tying around the bottle. The knot should be an OVERHAND KNOT, which is done left over right, then right over left so that the knot lies flat.
11. Repeat the knots all the way across - right leg of one to left leg of the next, leaving the last right leg alone.
12. Now go back to the leftmost fringe, and take the left leg of that and tie it to its right leg. Here you want a 2” diameter, so find a vitamin supplement bottle or something that’s 2” and use that as a form to tie the knots around. Go from left to right tying the left and right legs together. You should see that this second row of knots are forming in between the previous row of knots, not right underneath them.
13. Continue with the 2” bottle and alternate steps 11 and 12 as many times as you like, so that each fringe has about 4-7 knots (they all should have the same number, whether that’s 4, 5, or 6, etc.) Let the rest of the fringe hang loose without knots.
14. Cut the very ends of the fringe so they’re even, or to the length you like. The knotted fringe should now form a diamond pattern. Spray block the fringe to smooth it out.

Pictured: my niece and I (and several musical instruments) modeling the scarf