Making this project yet again, because I love it that much.
This is the fifth time I have made this pattern.
I have finished 30 repeats and blocked it. I took a measurement. As of now, it is 31 inches long, 30.25 inches wide, of course without the edging.
The finished project is 494g. It’s now washed and on the blocking wires.
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Body notes:
- Cast on 171 stitches for a smaller version of the blanket.
- Do not use old Norwegian cast on if you are doing edging, because the fancy cast on will be hidden and you will hate picking up stitches from it for the edging (ask me how I know).
- Do not slip yarn purlwise at the start of each row when working the main body, if adding an edging. That weakens the edge of the fabric.
- Work a German short row (no wrapping, just turn) on each edge once per repeat, in the rows with the eyelets.
- Block the blanket while still on the needles when you think it is long enough. Especially with drops merino: it grows a lot sideways when washed. You may find it’s not long enough after all.
- Then block the blanket again before adding edging.
Edging notes:
- I bound off the last row before adding the edging for a more even finished look.
- Work the edging counter clockwise (so the ridge is on the back).
- Tighten the work every time you start a new row from the knitted side… slip yarn purlwise and pull snug and tight, then work the row.
- That last row looks best if you put a YO in the right spot. The chart in the book is wrong to not have it, I think.
- Slip yarn purlwise when starting a new row at the edge side, except for the longest row, when I purl that first stitch. It creates a very pretty point on the edging.
- 100 grams for edging
July 21, 2024
The stitching is done! Now for the little edging seam, sewing in edges, and final blocking.