This is my double weave sampler for the Purlescence double weave workshop. We used the book, “the weavers studio, doubleweave” as our text and weaved through most of the 4 shaft sampler. We did not weave through the quilting techniques.

Journal

2015-07-25: wind warp on a warping board running 2 threads at a time (1 of each color). I had to maintain order and this was quite difficult for me as my normal board warping technique would twist the threads. I finally figured out a way to handle it. Unfortunately my way caused twisting of the 2 threads at the cones, so I had to regularly stop and untwist. Complete warping of the loom and weave header.

2015-07-26: Completed a bunch of different techniques. I’ll photograph and try to label them.

2015-07-27: Tie fringe in clumps. I’m not too worried about count since this is a sampler. Cut fringe to about 2”. Weave in or bury ends.

Summary

• starting weights: lime- 512.9 grams; dark brown- 461.6; polo tan- 548.7; eggplant- 508.7; natural 267.4 grams

• ending weights: dark brown- 404.3; polo tan- 493

• used: dark brown- 57.3 grams; polo tan- 55.7 grams

• Description of techniques, starting from the last picture and the beginning of the sampler
  

  • 1: Started weaving rep weave; we were weaving between the layers.
    
  • 2: 2 tubes, light color forward, then dark color forward. The reverse side shows the opposite colors. (figures 3 & 5)
    
  • 3: Alternating tubes of dark and light. (figure 7)
  • 4: 2 tubes, light forward, then dark forward, right side closed, left side open, (figures 9 & 11). At the bottom of the white tube, is an accidental stitching.
  • 5: 2 plaid tubes, light forward, then dark forward, right side closed, left side open. (figure 13). The first section was a mistake as I was stitching them closed. the next 2 sections form a single pocket, light forward then dark forward.
    
  • 6: 2 tubes closed on both sides or “Pillows” as we stuffed them (figures 17 & 18). First one is light forward, second one is left forward. Stuffed with cotton batting.
  • 7: single closed tube (pillow0, light color forward (not in book). This tube was woven as for a fully open tube, except that we caught the threads at the side to close the tube.
  • 8: Side by side stuffed closed tubes. (figure 20)
  • 9: Weaving a vertical slit. (figure 23)
  • 10: Color and weave. (Figures 24, 26 & 28) I think I’m going to turn this one into a pillow.
  • 11: stitched cloth. (Figure 29)
  • 12: Stuffed horizontal stripes. (Figure 31)
  • 13: rep weave: alternating colors, light forward, dark forward.

• My double weave tends to curve into smileys. I forgot why that was, but I need to understand it and see if I can correct it.

Lessons Learned

• Don’t use unmercerized cotton. While my sampler turned out quite nice, the stickyness and weakness of my yarn caused a bit of trouble. Double weave warp is held at a much higher tension.

• There is no way I can run a doubleweave warp on a a warping frame. I have to use a mill.

• The threads that broke were my right hand threads. This is typical for me, even when warping on the mill. So, I need to carfully address my tension -- its probably the first bundle -- when winding my warp.

• There is some definiate “handedness” going on here. We started from the left side. I typically start from the right. You will see some double wefts as a result. Kind of surprising since I have done odd threaded plaids, started my shuttles on opposite sides in plaids, etc.