Yardages include 2 quite large swatches. More of the grey yarns used because all the I-cord edging, cast on/stitch pick-up edges and the belt were done with the grey yarns only. If you’re using yarn held double I would recommend pre-winding the yarns in each colour together so youre not contending with 4 balls of yarn all the time!

Swatched using 8mm needles - much too big (about 8 sts/24 rows (12 brioche Vs) after blocking. Swatched again on 6.5mm, this seems right (stitch gauge very similar before and after blocking, but did grow lengthwise). My actual bust size is more like 39” but I decided to make the 32-34” size after measuring a similar cardigan I have and comparing the sizes.

Two-colour brioche so want to cast on an odd number of stitches for body to have a nice selvedge edge (same on both sides): knit edge stitches with dominant colour on main side, slip when working with CC and purl when working with MC on reverse side (note: I actually miscounted how many rows I would end up with and slipped the MC on the reverse side, so it was only knitted once for every 4 brioche rows. This meant that in the end I had to pick up two stitches per selvedge stitch in some cases for the I-cord edging. So it would be better to knit the MC on the main side, purl it on the reverse side, and just slip it when working with the CC. This way you end up with the same number of edge stitches as in the pattern and you can follow the instructions for picking up stitches as they are).

Dominant/main colour = blue
Secondary/contrast colour = grey

Cast on: odd number with Italian two-colour cast on, starting with a ‘knit’ in the MC (hold MC at back over index finger and CC over thumb) UPDATE: actually use long-tail cast on - two-colour Italian looks nicer for the raw edge, but will be picking up stitches later, so better to have a sturdier edge to pick up from. Cast on with contrast/secondary colour (grey), thought this would look better on the reverse side after picking up stitches from the edge (turns out to be correct). Cast on the normal way, so that when you turn your work and join the blue the “right” side of the cast-on edge is facing the back; this will look good once you pick up stitches for the I-cord edge with the main side facing.

Modifications to the decreases used: brLsl worked as specified in the pattern. brRsl worked as: with the dominant colour, slip the next stitch (dominant colour with yarn wrap of secondary colour) to the right needle knitwise, knit the next stitch, pass the slipped stitch + it’s yarn over over this stitch you just knit. Put this stitch back on the left needle and slip the next stitch + its yarn over over the stitch.

br4stdec: video

(these decreases look better on the reverse side in my opinion, if you want to make the cardigan reversible like this one)

Some modifications to the short rows because the second colour always need to ‘catch up’ with the first, so can’t just work half the stitches while slipping the rest, turn and work back as directed in the pattern. So essentially, more rows are worked during the short row sections. In two-colour brioche worked flat you have to work four rows (or two rows working the colours at the same time) before you are back on the same side of the work, compared to two rows for one-colour brioche worked flat, so some of the row counts have to be adjusted slightly to make sure you are starting things on the right side of the work.

Even though the brioche was worked on 6.5mm needles, used 8mm for the I-cord around the body (too tight otherwise, especially considering everything will grow with blocking) and still knit pretty loosely. Even with this the I-cord along the cast-on edge of the body is pretty tight and could even be looser. I had more of the grey yarn, so using that for the I-cord edging and also for the belt.

Belt modification: double knitted I-cord (9 stitches, k1 sl1) instead of brioche knitted on 6.5 mm needles.

For body, cast on 1 fewer stitch than suggested to get same selvedge edge along both sides (this edge stitch is in the MC, blue, see notes above). Knit this stitch when working across with the MC on the right side, or purl it on the wrong side. When working with the CC, just slip it.

When splitting for armholes/back, had one fewer stitch on back to account for 1 fewer stitch cast on, specified number of stitches on arms.

Working sleeves: found both DPNs and magic loop very annoying. Ended up using two circular needles - this can be done if you have an interchangeable set with at least two cables, and only two tips of the size you need, just making sure that the side of the needle you are always knitting with has the correct size tip on it while the other side has a smaller tip size (I used 6.5 mm for the needle to knit with and 6 mm for the other side). Picked up stitches using the grey yarn with the main side facing, then joined the blue yarn as the dominant colour again on the next round.

Work sleeve cuffs as directed, the final row before starting the I-cord bind-off worked in the grey yarn. I-cord bind off for sleeve also in grey yarn. Number of rows for the sleeves as in pattern for this size - slightly too long after blocking.

The first row of picked up stitches for the sleeves (before joining 2nd brioche colour) was very loose for me, I ended up sewing over this partly while weaving in ends. Probably due to how stitches were picked up in the edge of the body.