Final fit has 15cm positive ease
Using Amy Herzog’s Ultimate Sweater Book as a guide.
Bottom-up, knit flat and seamed. Yarn held double.
Gauge is 20 sts and 32 rows.
Realised after finishing the front and back panels that I should have taken the ‘edge stitch’ into account for dimensions, i.e. the edge stitch will be part of the seam and so won’t contribute to the width. This is fine for the front and back panels as it won’t make a big difference compared to the total width but I want to take it into account for the sleeves.
My gauge also changed for the sleeves to 21 sts.
Back panel
C/o 99 sts with tubular cast-on and worked back and forth in broken rib for 110 rows
Bind off 5 stitches on each side (89 sts remain) and work raglan decreases every 3 rows as follows:
RS: K2, SSK, K until 4 sts remain, K2Tog, K2
WS: P, K, P2Tog, follow broken rib pattern until 4 sts remain, SSP, K, P
Work until 41 sts remain (72 rows). Last row is a decrease row on WS. Bind off on RS.
Note: edge st will be hidden after seaming, so the visible edge stitch along raglan edge is a purl. The visible edge along the sleeve seam will need to be a knit, so actual edge will be a purl
Sleeve
Note: I changed the frequency of raglan decreases in the sleeve compared to the front and back panels.
Cast on 59 sts (width based on 57 sts = 27 cm)
Work 11 rows.
Increase every 9 rows, 13 times (85 sts)
Work 7 rows straight.
At this point I realised the edge st was wrong - the edge st after binding off 5 sts should be a purl but it is a knit. This stitch (i.e. the one 6 sts in, whether it is a knit or purl) alternates with every increase row which I forgot to consider. I corrected it by decreasing during the bind-off as follows:
On row 7 (RS), b/o 4 sts, k2tog, b/o the k2tog st (79 sts).
Raglan row 1: (WS), b/o 4 sts, ssp, b/o the ssp st (73 sts).
Raglan row 2 (RS): Knit
Start the decrease sequence. Decreases happen on the 4th st in from the edge (a knit stitch):
Dec every 2 rows, 8 times
Dec every 3 rows, 12 times
Dec every 2 rows, 9 times
Total 72 rows. Bind off on WS.
Seamed panels using mattress stitch
Collar
Picked up 2 in every 3 stitches along each diagonal edge and one stitch in every stitch along the back
Round 1:
Knit in 1x1 rib, with a cod placed at the v neck convergence point
Round 2: repeat
Round 3: 1x1 rib without decrease
In other words I worked a cdd for 2 in every 3 rounds, as opposed to every second round which I’ve typically don’t for v necks in the past. The diagonal edges are steep so I figured I would have to decrease more frequently to remove fabric around the v neck point.
Bound off with tubular bind off
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