SWATCH & MEASUREMENTS

I bought an extra skein, specifically for swatching. I did 3 swatches to start:

Round Gauge
On size 10.5 (wooden) using messy i-cord method:

• UNBLOCKED: 14 st x 22 rows
• BLOCKED: 13.72 st x 21 rows
• HANGING: 14 st x 19 rows (3.5 st per inch)

Flat Gauge (rowing out)
On size 10.5 (wooden):

• UNBLOCKED: 13.75 st x 22 rows
• BLOCKED: 12.75 st x 21 rows
• HANGING: 13 st x 19 rows (3.25 st per inch)

Flat Gauge (not rowing out)
On size 10.5 (wooden) for knit rows and size 10 (wooden) for purl rows:

• UNBLOCKED: 14.5 st x 23 rows
• BLOCKED: 14 st x 21 rows
• HANGING: 14 st x 19 rows (3.5 st per inch)

I like the fabric of the 10.5 (+10). I’m afraid that if I use a bigger needle to get stitch gauge, it’s going to be to airy and drapey. Plus, the row gauge will be way off. So the math works out like this:

• 34” bust = 23” bust (98/3.5)
• 38” bust = 31” bust (110/3.5)
• 42” bust = 35” bust (122/3.5)
• 46” bust = 38” bust (132/3.5)
• 50” bust = 41” bust (144/3.5)

Based on the numbers, and my preferred ease, I am going to cast on for a size 46” bust. I had the pattern support thread check my math, and I got the following response from the pattern designer herself!

You might consider doing the neck increases a bit faster than the pattern calls for, and the sleeve decreased a bit slower, to account for the differences in how the pattern is graded at the larger sizes.

NECK & SHOULDERS

Casting on 04/08/2019 for a size 46” (it’ll be ~38” for me!)

I couldn’t quite figure out the math on the designer’s suggestion for the neck increases (a skill to learn in the future). I am increasing as outlined in the pattern. I think it’ll be OK, as I intend to wear the sweater over other shirts and dresses.

04/11/2019 It’s too late now, but refer to this forum post on how to adjust the neck increase in the future.

I am doing a modification to the increases. I don’t like how my M1s are looking sloppy, so I am using the nearly invisible increase (aka increase in the stitch below) from TECHKnitting (thanks, Reddit Knitters!) I will do so in the following manner:

• Beginning neck increases: Knit 1, increase in the stitch below (L); Knit to last stitch, increase in the stitch below (R)
• Before markers: Knit to marker, increase in the stitch below (R)
• After markers: Slip marker, increase in the stitch below (L)
• End neck increases: Slip marker, increase in the stitch below (R); Knit to last stitch, increase in the stitch below (L).

SEPARATE BODY & SLEEVES

I did 5 extra rounds of knitting/HBS until the sleeve fit comfortably around my arm, and then separated for the body.

BUST DARTS

When I measure my upper bust and my full bust, it’s a 3” difference. So I’m right in between the C/D and the E/F dart option. Here is the suggestion I got from the designer:

What is your row gauge? If it’s a bit bigger than the pattern (so fewer than 20 rows to 4”), I would do the C/D darts; if it’s a bit smaller than the pattern (so more than 20 rows to 4”), I would do the E/F.

So, since my row gauge is only slightly bigger (19 rows instead of 20 rows) I am going to do the C/D bust darts (4 German short rows, or 2 turns on each side of the front).

BODY

On to the body! The pattern recommends repeating the knitting/HBS rounds 7 times. I tried on it on to make sure I like where the triangle is going to start. It’s going to start right where the gore of my bra starts. I feel like this is what makes the shape of the sweater that I love so I am really happy with where the triangle starts. Although, I added one extra row so that every time I sl1yo I am doing that with all my brioche stitches.

I had some confusion on how the pattern is written for this part. It indicates that on each round, you add in a new HBS. I searched through the Ravelry forums, and found the designer’s comment, which provides a much clearer explanation of how to do this.

04/16/2019 I’ve finished the body! The pattern calls for 2 rounds of HBS, and then to bind off. I am knitting 3 rounds of HBS so that all my slipped stitches are knitted.

I searched through all the finished projects to see what kind of bind off other are doing. The majority of folks did an Icelandic Bind off, so I taught myself a new skill! I found this video by Very Pink Knits helpful

Now I have to wait for my 10.5 16” circs to arrive to do my sleeves!

SLEEVES

My 16” circs arrived on either Monday or Tuesday, and I started my first sleeve almost immediately. I was worried about the half-brioche stitches being too loose at the underarm, but they seem to look OK after picking up the 3 stitches.

I had to switch to the dreaded magic loop about halfway through the decreases. I tried desperately to avoid this, but I couldn’t find anyone with 10.5 DPNS that I could borrow, and I wanna finish this puppy up!

04/19/2019 I just finished all the decrease rounds, and I like where the sleeve hits (right in the middle of my forearm). I knitted one row of non-decrease after the final decrease round, and then did an Icelandic Bind off.

NECK

Instead of doing what the patten calls for (pick up & knit, and then immediately bind off) I am using a size I/5.5mm crochet hook (equivalent to a needle size 9) and slip stitching around the neckline. I get the same affect and stabilized neckline. (Plus, it’s exactly the same thing.)

BLOCKING

I washed as usual. Lightly blocked. I didn’t do any pinning. I would occasionally check on it and shake it out, then gently hand block again.

LESSONS LEARNED

One last edit for this page. Here are the lesson’s I’ve learned:

1 Damn gurl, I think you’ve got this swatching thing figured out. Considering this a WIN!

2 If you’re sizing UP because your gauge is smaller (more stitches), consider modifying the neckline as the designer recommended earlier. (See notes above for her directions.) Currently, the shoulders like to slip.

3 Consider a different yarn choice next time.

4 Consider sizing down a needle size when you get to the triangle detail. This FO flairs out a little. Blocking helped a bit, but a needle change might help as well.

5 You can rock a crop! Although I would also love this as a longer sweater!