610 ends
4 yard warp
24.4” wide in the reed
25 epi, 50/10 reed, 2 per dent
Presleyed with 6 dent reed, 4 threads per dent
Draft is “Hogeboom of Toronto” in my Weaveit Pro software. Created with CLAN tartan designer toolhttps://clan.com/tartandesigner/. A single repeat of the pattern is 310 threads.
Finished size: 20.5” wide by 81.25” (not including fringe) Knotted fringe cut to 1”.
about 64” loom waste

My colors were Black Grouse (a very dark blue with sparks of other bright colors blended in), harebell (a sky blue), great burnet (a deep wine red), curlew (a tan) and pheasant (a copper brown)
Yarn averages approx. 6135yyp.

Shetland wool singles warped fine with no broken threads. Sized in Sta-Flo starch (half starch, half water).
Counter balance loom, 4 shafts, 4 treadles. Horses and shafts very uneven. Not sure why.
Broke 3 threads in first 18” of weaving.
Each repeat measures around 12”.

Weaving
The warp isn’t sticking so much this time; I’m getting clean sheds. I used the same amount of starch. Variances: counterbalance, different colors. The Black Grouse color is stickier, (and thicker) and the other colors less sticky. I am also using a Flying Dutchman shuttle for the main color. Twice I broke warp threads because I fumbled the shuttle, but with proper throwing form, the shuttle is really good for sticky warps.
From Mary Black’s “The Sett and Weaving of Tartans” p. 8:
“The rule which applies to all twill weaving with regard to the edge threads applies here as well. If the first thread of the 1,2,3,4 twill sequence is threaded on harness one on the right and and the last thread on the left through harness 4, as the weaver faces the loom, treadles one and two should be depressed (on a counterbalanced loom) and the shuttle thrown in from the left side. If this routine is followed, there will not be any difficulty with edge thread failing to fall into place. This routine will bring all color changes at the left selvedge.”
Thank you Mary Black! This worked perfectly. I did not need a floating selvedge, and all color changes were at the left side.
I had about 64” of loom waste. This seems like alot! There wasn’t enough for another repeat of the pattern without stressing the warp and making the scarf too long. It’s nice to have a generous amount to tie onto the front beam too. And since this was not expensive yarn, I don’t mind the waste. I do save the thrums for ???
Color Sequence (Tromp as Writ)
4 light blue (at beginning and end to balance)
6 tan (treadling repeat starts here)
18 light blue
28 navy
16 copper
4 navy
70 burgundy
4 tan
6 burgundy
4 tan
70 burgundy
4 navy
16 copper
28 navy
18 light blue
6 tan
6 light blue

Hems? Fringe? Knots?
On my last Shetland project, I just fulled the fabric and the fringe stayed put. No hemstiching or knots. But the last threads of this project is the Harebell light blue, and it is softer and not as hairy as the Black Grouse, so it did not full as much.
I had a big idea to weave a half inch , then leave an inch for fringe, and then start the project. I thought this would make it easier the cut the fulled fringe. But because the yarn didn’t full as much as planned, this idea didn’t work. So, I am slowly pulling out 4 threads at a time and tying tiny knots up against the fell line. This is working and it looks nice, but my goodness, it’s tedious.

Finishing
I neglected to measure the off-loom fabric. I washed the fabric in Synthrapol (Dharma Professional Detergent) in tap-hot water (about 100F), using the washing instructions from the Gardiner website. https://www.gardiner-yarns.co.uk/CMS/xinha/plugins/Extend...

After the second scour, I placed the wet fabric into my front-loader, and ran the “delicate” cycle for 10 minutes, with a bit of Synthrapol. This fulled the fabric perfectly…not too much, as I wanted a more fluid scarf handle rather than the heavier and thicker handle of the wrap woven in Black Grouse (which is a heavier yarn that fulled more anyway).
I had also neglected to repair any errors before washing, but luckily there weren’t many, and I was able to fix them after the fabric had been washed.
I let the fabric dry while I knotted the fringe, then I soaked it in hot water with Dharma textile softener for 10 minutes, rinsed in warm water. Hot steam iron. Trimmed fringe.