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The Billie Tee is a relaxed and oversized drop shoulder t-shirt with optional stripes and folded hems. It is worked entirely in Stockinette stitch from the top down, initially flat and then joined in the round at the underarms. You will begin by working the back panel, with increases on the right and wrong side of the work to create sloping shoulders. When the back panel is finished, you will work the left and right shoulders in turn, before joining these together to form the front panel. From here, you will join your work in the round and work the length of the body, which is finished with a sewn hem. You will then apply the collar, before moving onto each sleeve. The sleeve caps are shaped with German short rows for an improved fit, and the sleeves are intended to finish around your elbows for an elevated but casual feel.

Materials and Fit

Notions: You will need 2 mm / US 0 (40- and 80-cm / 16- and 32-in cord), 2.5 mm / US 1.5, (40- and 80-cm / 16- and 32-in cord), and 3 mm / US 2.5 (40- and 80-cm / 16- and 32-in cord) circular needles. You will also need at least 1 stitch marker, 1 clip-on stitch marker, a darning needle, and either scrap yarn, spare circular needles, or stitch holders for resting stitches.

Tension: 28 stitches x 37 rows/rounds in Stockinette stitch on 3 mm / US 2.5 = 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 in.

Sizing and ease: The Billie Tee has a recommended positive ease of 15-20 cm / 6–8 in for Sizes A-H and 10-20 cm / 4-8 in for Sizes I-L around the chest (or the widest part of your torso). However, if you wanted less ease, you would be welcome to choose a smaller size relative to your chest measurement and vice versa.

Note: This pattern has been graded with fixed ease, meaning that the same amount of ease has been applied to all sizes. However, given the recommended amount of positive ease for this pattern, you may wish to size down if you are knitting one of the larger sizes. I don’t like to be too prescriptive here as I think it’s largely a matter of taste and personal preference. I would strongly recommend measuring a top with an oversized fit that you know you like and using this as a way to pick a size if you’re unsure. Feel free to email me to discuss this further; I’d be more than happy to help.

Size: A (B) C (D), E (F) G (H), I (J) K (L)

Chest measurement (cm): 75-80 (80-85) 85-90 (90-95), 95-100 (100-105) 105-110 (110-115), 115-125 (125-135) 135-145 (145-155)
Chest measurement (in): 29.5-31.5 (31.5-33.5) 33.5-35.5 (35.5-37.5), 37.5-39.25 (39.25-41.25) 41.25-43.25 (43.25-45.25), 45.25-49.25 (49.25-53.25) 53.25-57 (57-61)

Actual circumference of garment at chest (cm): 95 (100.5) 105 (110.5), 115 (120.5) 125 (130.5), 135 (145) 155 (165)
Actual circumference of garment at chest (in): 37.5 (39.75) 41.25 (43.5), 45.25 (47.5) 49.25 (51.5), 53.25 (57) 61 (65)

Armhole depth (cm): 17.5 (18) 18.5 (19), 19.5 (19.5) 20 (21), 21 (22) 23.5 (24.5)
Armhole depth (in): 7 (7) 7.25 (7.5), 7.75 (7.75) 8 (8.25), 8.25 (8.75) 9.25 (9.75)

Body length from cast-on edge to hem at centre back (cm): 51 (51.5) 52 (52.5), 53 (53) 53.5 (54), 54.5 (55) 56.5 (57)
Body length from cast-on edge to hem at centre back (in): 20 (20.25) 20.5 (20.75), 20.75 (20.75) 21 (21.25), 21.25 (21.5) 22.25 (22.5)

Sleeve circumference at bicep (cm): 35 (35.5) 37 (38.5), 40 (40.5) 42 (43.5), 45 (48.5) 52 (55.5)
Sleeve circumference at bicep (in): 13.75 (14) 14.5 (15.25), 15.75 (16) 16.5 (17.25), 17.75 (19) 20.5 (22)

Sleeve length (cm): 19
Sleeve length (in): 7.5

Yarn: For my sample, I used Knitting for Olive Pure Silk (100% silk; 50 g = 250 m / 273 yds) in the shades Cream and Cardamom.

If you want to use the same yarn and stripe placement, you will need 4 (4-5) 5 (5), 5 (5) 5-6 (6), 6 (6) 7 (7) balls of Knitting for Olive Pure Silk in your main colour, and 1 (1-2) 1-2 (1-2), 1-2 (2) 2 (2), 2 (2) 2 (2) ball(s) in your contrast colour.

If you want to use different yarn but want the same stripe placement, you will need approximately 980 (1,025) 1,065 (1,120), 1,165 (1,205) 1,255 (1,295), 1,355 (1,450) 1,565 (1,670) m / 1,070 (1,115) 1,165 (1,220), 1,270 (1,320) 1,370 (1,415), 1,480 (1,590) 1,710 (1,825) yds of fingering-weight yarn in your main colour, and 270 (280) 290 (305), 315 (325) 335 (345), 355 (380) 405 (430) m / 295 (310) 320 (335), 345 (355) 365 (380), 390 (415) 445 (470) yds of a fingering-weight yarn in your contrast colour.

If you want to use the same yarn but don’t want stripes, you will need 5 (5-6) 6 (6), 6 (6-7) 7 (7), 7 (8) 8 (9) balls of Knitting for Olive Pure Silk in your chosen colour.

If you want to use a different yarn, this works out to be 1,250 (1,305) 1,355 (1,425), 1,480 (1,530) 1,590 (1,640), 1,710 (1,830) 1,970 (2,100) m / 1,365 (1,425) 1,485 (1,555), 1,615 (1,675) 1,735 (1,795), 1,870 (2,005) 2,155 (2,295) yds of fingering-weight yarn.

Techniques include leaning increases and decreases, picking up and knitting stitches along vertical and horizontal edges, German short rows, and working a sewn (or knitted, depending on preference) hem.

The pattern copy provides guidance at the start on setting up the optional stripes with suggested row/round counts and placement, but does not explicitly tell you when to change colours in the pattern copy. I am always happy to help via email, however.